Case 580SK died while rear lifted by boom

Hello,
Today I ran into some trouble with my loader backhoe, I got it stuck un some mud and was trying to lift the rear wheels out of the rutts using the rear boom. I lifted the front loader off the ground and lifter the rear end using the hoe, I was around what I would estimate was a 40 degree angle when the machine idled down and the died. I assumed it may have been low on diesel and the tipping may have caused it to not get the fuel in the tank. I added some fuel and tried starting it but to no avail, I tried some starting fluid but it still wouldn't fire.

My question is: Is there a ROPS kill switch on these machines that I inadvertently activated and if so how do I reset it? If thats not the problem could tipping the machine from the back end cause something else that is now preventing it from starting?

One more thing to mention is this occured while the outdoor temperature was 6 degrees below freezing or -6C but the machine was warmed up before it died.

I would appreciate and suggestions or advice, thank you for taking the time to read this post.

M.Rothe

Welcome to HEF, RotheF,
Was it low enough on fuel that it did in fact run out of it ?
If it idled down and died, that indicates that it did.
Did you bleed all the air out of the fuel system ??

No ROPS shut down on that machine, i would be fairly certain you ran it out of fuel... ether won't help if it's not getting diesel through the injectors so don't keep on trying that route once you get air in there you have to bleed it all out by loosening the lines at the injectors.

Ok thanks, I will work on bleeding the injector feed lines, I'm a little nervous doing that as where they thread into the pump is quite tight to get a wrench between the lines and it looks easy to strip the threads on them but maybe it will be easier on the injector side. Also it was my understanding that the fuel system was self bleeding/priming but maybe I'm mistaken. It will probably be a day or two before I can get back to work on it but will be sure to post the results.
Thanks again for the input!

M.Rothe

Not on the pump.... loosen on the injectors.

Hi everyone, just wanted to give an update. Unfortunately I have not been able to spend much time on my machine. It has also snowed so much that my ATV is unable to pass the trails to get to the machine, and because of that I wont be able to use my generator to charge it's batteries. So I removed them and lugged them back to my house where they are currently charging. I am hoping to get back out there on the 26th or 27th and will give an update then.

Thanks again for the info

M.Rothe

If the tank was more full than empty, then it's possible that you sucked some gunk that blocked something, or sucked some water possibly. If the fuel doesn't flow freely, stop and figure that out before draining your batteries and/or burning out your starter trying to prime it when the fuel is not flowing. Follow the fuel line from the tank to the injection pump so you know all the possible places to plug, check for water at every drain, use the transfer pump (probably have one?) to move fuel instead of cranking the engine to move fuel. Only crank it once you have the injection lines loose a couple turns at the injectors, and fuel with no bubbles coming out up to the injection pump. Once the lines at the injector are squirting clean fuel from the loose nut, with no bubbles, then tighten the nuts and it should start. It sure wouldn't hurt to warm the engine up also, this is going to be no fun to try to get going, don't make it worse by screwing it up.

I am not sure what the fuel tank fill looks like on your 580 but on the old Cats I use air to push the fuel thru. Take a old inner tube and cut a round hole cut in it to fit the tank inlet and then install a host clamp around it. Pump some air in it to partially inflate it. If in a bad spot its easy with a hand pump. Do not pump it to big. Inflated to mostly round is plenty. You do not want to bulge your tank. After getting the air pushing the fuel simple start loosening the connections to bleed the air out. I start at the injection pump inlet and when the fuel flow gets there you know the filters and everything is full that far. Not sure on your pump if you can push thru the pump to the injectors but you will be well on your way. Push enough through to insure all the air is out and you have clean fuel flow. Not uncommon to get a burp of fuel and them more air and then fuel again because of fuel residue in the filters.

The shut-off valve on your fuel tank can be easily plugged and it may be a good idea to replace the in-line fuel filter. You probably know this already but someone reading this thread may not.

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the long time between updates but it has been a busy winter/spring, I finally was able to get a neighbor with an excavator to come and drag my machine out of the mud and ice, closer to my house so that I could work on it. I ended up taking Ronsii's advice to remove to fuel lines at the injectors (only the back three as the manifold was in the way of the front one). I did them one at a time and on the third one the engine started!!

So thank you everyone for the help, I have manuals but the procedure they lay out for bleeding the fuel system did not incude removing lines at the injectors!

Mike

Glad to hear you got it going again.