"beat up" hardly looks broke in to me
So after loosening the master link bolts on both tracks and removing the trunnion arm bolts, exactly what speed do you have to get to before selecting reverse, to achieve the pictured result
Good to see your not trying to work in a confined space :drinkup
So after loosening the master link bolts on both tracks and removing the trunnion arm bolts, exactly what speed do you have to get to before selecting reverse, to achieve the pictured result
Good to see your not trying to work in a confined space :drinkup
:laugh ointlaugh
Yup Oil in the ends and grease in the middle. Should be a remote Nipple on the left side engine compartment.the ends of the equalizer bar should take 80/90 weight oil not grease , you put grease it them when the seals wont hold oil.
How about the Ripper. Pretty good brake.I wonder how many others had not considered brakes or lack off when driving off the end
Well, not even the end, its when the track comes clear of the drive, which gives quite a way to clatter and ruin a pair of pants 'efore she stops
Hey Rob.
Dependant on the job. Changing tracks is easy if you do them one at a time with the blade and draft arms off.
How about the Ripper. Pretty good brake.
Ross
Ye, know what you mean Ross, trouble with spending so much time on machines that can slew 360, and have an arm & bucket on I tend to overlook some of the problems faced when pulling bits off other machines.
I wondered if the blade had been taken last, as the crane is still there. I expect the blade was used to raise the front for blocking?
In that scenario, stripping down, does it make much difference whether the blade or tracks come off first
What's the undercarriage worth for her? Even a cheap set?
We did the undercarriage on one of our 10R's last year and I was told a good 400 000 went into her after we did chains, rollers, sprockets and yada yada yada.