Chris Withers
Member
Not a cat mechanic, looking for info for what seal or seals are blown, could it be the clutch/brake assembly or is it a pinion seal, any helpful information would be appreciated, thanks in advance
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92 cat d5h pressure in right final drive
- Thread starter Chris Withers
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
A Serial Number is always a good start, closely followed by a description of the symptoms.
You mention "Pressure in Right Final Drive", but what exactly do you mean.? Release of pressure when you remove the level/drain plug.?
Any oil leaking from anywhere..?
You mention "Pressure in Right Final Drive", but what exactly do you mean.? Release of pressure when you remove the level/drain plug.?
Any oil leaking from anywhere..?
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I'm betting this.
Chris Withers
Member
Sn 8rc05702, removed axle cover from final drive center, was greeted with a release of air pressure followed by a deluge of oil, probably around an extra gallon beyond the fill level amount, the drive seems to function ok when cold, but gets progressively worse as it heats up until right drive pretty much ceases to function. No visible leaks.
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Nige can figure out what kind of drive system you have by serial number. I cant help you with a drive issue until I know what you have, but I would suggest on the pressure and drive oil level...…...replace the cover ( it is not the fill area), get the planetary in the proper position and refill to the proper level at the correct fill plug. Run the machine a bit and then recheck the level. It is not unusual to see a small amount of pressure inside a sealed planetary drive since there is air space inside of it.
Your drive fading is another issue altogether.
Your drive fading is another issue altogether.
Chris Withers
Member
Rebuilt left final drive last week, checked level in right drive while inspecting it for excessive wear, fluid level was ok at that point.
Nige
Senior Member
How many total hours on the machine.?
What type/grade of oil are you using in the rear end.?
As per what Vetech said above. Not unusual to get pressure in a warm final drive. Drain, refill exactly to level. Monitor level going forward.
For level checkes on that type of final drive I like to position the level plug at 12 o'clock, crack it (do not remove completely) and release any pressure that there might be, then slowly roll the tractor forward until the level plug is at the desired position. Remove plug - monitor oil level.
What was wrong with the left FD that caused you to rebuild it..?
What type/grade of oil are you using in the rear end.?
As per what Vetech said above. Not unusual to get pressure in a warm final drive. Drain, refill exactly to level. Monitor level going forward.
For level checkes on that type of final drive I like to position the level plug at 12 o'clock, crack it (do not remove completely) and release any pressure that there might be, then slowly roll the tractor forward until the level plug is at the desired position. Remove plug - monitor oil level.
What was wrong with the left FD that caused you to rebuild it..?
Chris Withers
Member
Recently purchased this machine, after operating a few hours, found seals had failed with fluid running out of duo cone seals, upon inspection found the FD was in extremely bad condition, having never worked on a final drive, it took some serious reading and research to educate myself on how to proceed. Seems to work well. To-4 30 weight both in trans and FD
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Nige
Senior Member
Answers to these questions.?
Chris Withers
Member
Hour meter reads 05913 and some tenths. Trans oil and FD oils are both to-4, 30 weight, just changed oil and filter
Nige
Senior Member
Hours seem a bit low for overhauling finals but hey ho......
What was wrong with the LH side if I may ask.?
I'd give it one shot at setting the oil level correct then monitor it for a day or two, then if it is filling up with oil your practice with the R&I of the LH final drive is going to stand you in good stead for doing the other side. Based on your symptoms of the FD working OK when cold but failing to drive when warm would appear to indicate that either the steering clutch is slipping or somehow the brake is coming on. The brakes are spring-applied & oil released so there is a distinct possibility that one or other of the brake piston seal(s) could be tired and leaking when it is hot.
Have you got any pressure gauges.? It might be an idea to stick a gauge on the brake pressure test port & monitor it while the machine warms up.
What was wrong with the LH side if I may ask.?
I'd give it one shot at setting the oil level correct then monitor it for a day or two, then if it is filling up with oil your practice with the R&I of the LH final drive is going to stand you in good stead for doing the other side. Based on your symptoms of the FD working OK when cold but failing to drive when warm would appear to indicate that either the steering clutch is slipping or somehow the brake is coming on. The brakes are spring-applied & oil released so there is a distinct possibility that one or other of the brake piston seal(s) could be tired and leaking when it is hot.
Have you got any pressure gauges.? It might be an idea to stick a gauge on the brake pressure test port & monitor it while the machine warms up.
Chris Withers
Member
By appearances, this machine never saw a lot of TLC, so, I would guess the hour meter is very far from correct. The left FD was absolutely trashed, no bearings left, everything inside was pulverized, I'm sure I was lucky to be able to rebuild it. Just so you're aware, I'm a carpenter by trade, so if my terminology is off, I apologize,. The information you have given has been just what I was hoping to get, having never had to trouble shoot a dozer, your advice has given me the direction I needed to move forward with repairing this machine, thanks again, will try to let you know how it works out.
Nige
Senior Member
I would suggest that you try to get hold of a Service Manual for the machine. The Cat Publication reference is SENR3250.
If you can't find one on eBay (if you do always ask the seller "Is it complete?" - because some aren't) go to https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=8RC05702
Don't look at the price, think of it as an investment that you can sell further down the road for the same as you paid for it. The CD version is probably the best bang for the buck.
If you can't find one on eBay (if you do always ask the seller "Is it complete?" - because some aren't) go to https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=8RC05702
Don't look at the price, think of it as an investment that you can sell further down the road for the same as you paid for it. The CD version is probably the best bang for the buck.
absoluteyukon
Well-Known Member
I would also suggest keeping a close eye on your powertrain dipstick level, a drop in xmsn oil and a final drive that is filling up and over pressuring can indicate a failed lip seal on the outer axle shaft. Remove the center cover and the axleshaft/sun gear assembly and visually inspect the lip seal behind the planetary carrier for damage. The axleshaft itself may have a decent groove worn into it from the lip seal, depending on the operating hours on the component.
Good luck!
Edit: you will need a length of 5/8" NC threaded rod to remove and install the axle shafts.
Good luck!
Edit: you will need a length of 5/8" NC threaded rod to remove and install the axle shafts.
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