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Komatsu PC210LC-6E Very Slow Hydraulics

Andrew Navarrete

Active Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Ecuador
Hello, I just recently purchased a beater of a machine. It s a Komatsu Excavator PC210LC-6E with a 6BT cummins.

When I firsted picked it up it was working fine a little slow but it worked. Now she barely moves has no power to dig push spin or walk.

I had a mechanic take a look and we measured the pressure at the main pump and it marked 3000-3500 psi COLD.

He suggested swapping out the 2 pressure relief valves on the valve bank and it did help out. Sped the machine up a little but not much. We than disconected a solanoied on the main pump and the machine sped up a bit more. Now the main pump hits 4000psi cold and works a few hours before starting to slow down again.

Any thoughts? How much PSI should the main pump be marking? Do I need to rebuild my pump maybe swap out some other valve?

Any help would be greatly aprecieated. I l am located in ECUADOR South America I have very few options down here when it comes to seeking expert advice.
 

Andrew Navarrete

Active Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Ecuador
Yes, The monitor shows no warning lights or codes with the solanoid conected. But when i disconect it it throws an E02 Code. The machine works great for a few hours than slows to a crawl, I let it sit for about 20 min and it picks up speed again.
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
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Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
Starting to sound like a tired pump to me. By disconnecting the TVC solenoid, you have shut out the computer control that limits the amount of horsepower that the pump can pull out of the engine. When you disconnected that solenoid, the engine should have bogged down anytime you put a big load on it. Are you getting any heat in the hydraulic system?
 

Andrew Navarrete

Active Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Ecuador
Exactly the engine seems to be working harder when the solenoid is disconnected it boggs down a little and pours black smoke at the same time. Yes the hydraulics "feel" like they heat up a bit but no warning lights on the monitor. I was hoping maybe changeing the pilot valve or maybe re-seal the control valve would help. Im worried that a pump re-build can become very expensive / complicated over here. If I keep running it like this (Solenoid disconnected) do I run the risk of demaging the motor or other parts of the hydraulic system? Or will I eventually just wear the pump out to a point where there is no pressure and need to rebuild the pump?
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
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Messages
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The pump is probably already worn out and is beyond lapping the components smooth again to slow the leakage. You might just check prices for a reman to start with to get an idea of costs. Running it like that isn't doing the engine any good and the pump will likely start breaking up and throwing pieces all over the hydraulic system eventually.
 

Andrew Navarrete

Active Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Ecuador
I really apreciate the advice. Im going to have to look for a reman or have it rebuilt over here. I was quoted by one shop $8500 in the States for a reman unit. Sounds crazy expensive.
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
I used to see Link-Belt pumps new for around $18,000 US. I'm guessing your looking for at least 30 hours of labor to rebuild one right. I don't know how much rotating groups cost anymore but I think all those parts are available. Bearings and seals shouldn't be too bad. When you pull the pump, make sure and inspect the damper. There are springs in it and they should all be tight. If any are loose you will need to replace it. I always replace the rear main seal on the engine when I've gone that far in.
 

Andrew Navarrete

Active Member
Joined
May 23, 2019
Messages
29
Location
Ecuador
Im in the process of getting quotes for all the parts. Tomorrow I should have a good idea what its gonna cost me. It didnt even occur to me to change the rear main seal and check the damper Thanks for the advice.
 
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