roosa master dbg questions.

well never mind about finding the proper spot for the pins that fell out. lol. upon closer inspection of the housing i believe i found two cracks. neither appear to be right thru as i cannot find any cracks inside but have decided to pull the pump off the engine that i believe has stuck plungers and am going to dis assemble it and see if it’s in better shape. lubed this one up good and loosely assembled it to keep it all together for parts or just so i don’t loose pieces of it. but with the pins that came out from unknown locations and the possible cracks, i’m crossing my fingers the other pump is in better shape and i can free up the plungers and re seal it instead. guess we’ll see when it’s off and apart. i will post some pics of what i find in the other pump.

Are you sure those are cracks and not casting marks?

mitch504 said:

Are you sure those are cracks and not casting marks?

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the crack near the advance area may be a casting mark but the one in the second pic sure looks like a crack to me. looked closely inside and don’t see anything inside but to be safe i removed and tore down my other pump. housing has no questionable marks and was able to free up the plungers. they were stuck. some old fuel varnish was all that was holding them up. didn’t get so lucky removing the funny advance bolt this time. lil impact wouldn’t budge it. ratchet and 1/4 allen broke it. couple try’s tig welding a bolt to it and i was able to remove it. everything else came apart well and looks decent. pretty confident that with some parts from one and some parts from the other and i should be able to make one good pump. i noticed on this pump head , the three set screws are sealed off with some kinda sealer or epoxy. didn’t mess with them this time. hopefully tomorrow after work i will be able to finish cleaning everything up good and get the pilot bushing replaced and once the epoxy sets up i can assemble and install the pump. thanks for the help and input to all. i will post how i make out. thanks again guys.

I'd be tempted to wash that casting good with fuel oil and wipe off real good then spray with some foot powder. If it is in fact a crack the fuel oil will wick out and show a dark line where it is cracked. Also have heard of guys doing about the same mixing a bit of red food coloring and kerosene then let that soak in the area of suspected crack. Wipe it off real good then spray with the foot powder spray.

kshansen said:

I'd be tempted to wash that casting good with fuel oil and wipe off real good then spray with some foot powder. If it is in fact a crack the fuel oil will wick out and show a dark line where it is cracked. Also have heard of guys doing about the same mixing a bit of red food coloring and kerosene then let that soak in the area of suspected crack. Wipe it off real good then spray with the foot powder spray.

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that’s a good trick to find a crack. as a welder i have access to a product that u spray on. then wash off and spray a developer on that shows any cracks. basically the same idea tho. draws the ink outta the crack and makes it more visible. the other housing looks a lot better and has no casting marks or cracks at all that concern me. going to try and re build it instead. if nothing else i will use the better housing. old housing leaked fairly steady from the throttle shaft area assumed the o ring was bad but it actually didn’t look too bad. i now suspect the leak was from the crack near the throttle shaft

Funny farm said:

that’s a good trick to find a crack. as a welder i have access to a product that u spray on

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I have one of those kits too, but thought it might be a good idea to put out there for someone who only needed to try something one time.

Good luck on rebuilding the pump, I think there is some guy around this site that maybe able to give you some pointers, if that storm don't get him too bad!

kshansen said:

I have one of those kits too, but thought it might be a good idea to put out there for someone who only needed to try something one time.

Good luck on rebuilding the pump, I think there is some guy around this site that maybe able to give you some pointers, if that storm don't get him too bad!

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thanks kshansen tpgsc has been very helpful already. such a great guy. not enuf professionals are willing to share their knowledge and experience to the less experienced like he does. sure hope everyone stays safe for the storm.

well i have the pump all re assembled and ready for install onto the engine. numbers matched on both pump id tags ( other than s/n and manuf date ) so i used the best parts from both and assembled them together. think it went good lol. guess i’ll know soon as i can get it installed and bled out later today after i finish the “ hunny-do” list hahahah. if it works i saved a crap ton of cash. if it don’t .... i’m hopefully only out a 175 bucks lol. less actually cause the new basket and pilot tube will be fine and reusable, so guess i’d only be out 50 bucks. 20 for the book and 30 for o rings. ill be sure to have something in hand to choke the air off is she tries to run away on start up hahahahahah. hopefully the next post is the last and it’s a pic of smoke out the stack and not the pump back on the bench ..... cheers guys. thanks for the help.

mission success so far . tractor runs good again. no external fuel leaks now from the pump body and i will keep an eye on oil level to make sure the pilot is sealed up now. engine seems to run smoother and respond better. regardless tho it’s alive again. thanks all. cheers.

it only takes about 3-5 minutes to find out if the drive shaft seals rolled on ya.. cuz it'll DUMP piles of fuel in the oil, quickly..
Did u notice 2 grooves in the pilot tube.?? The grooves are caused by 2 things..
If the groove is deep.. closest to the pump, u have dirty fuel & need to clean the tank & change the filters more often..
If the groove is up higher, closest to the engine side.. u have dirty oil.. change the engine oil & filters more often..
Happy Tractoring..

thanks pump guy. both pumps had grooves in the pilot tube. one pump was worse but both were grooved up. and both seals equally grooved.
i keep oil changed regularly as well as filters so hopefully it will last for quite some time now. ran it for about 20 min or so. smoothed our the end of my driveway out. (roads guys just re topped our road with gravel and left a nasty drop off or ledge depending on what way ur going lol). oil level was same after so guess it’s safe to say the seal install went good. phew lol. pump is nice and dry, oil level is steady and no more flex ring to worry about. i’m calling that a win hahaha. and saved a crap ton of money doing it myself. hardest part was being obsessively clean with the parts. no rags to leave lint behind, no bare hands to leave dirt and oils behind, super clean fuel and containers to keep parts sitting in when it’s apart lots of compressed dry air and even more patience hahahaha.
-rebuild quote from local stanadyne dealer -900 + 200 to upgrade the weight basket.
-cost to rebuild myself - 165 dollars + one dozen cold beverages lol

I/ WE hear the same story over & over again from our friends North of the Boarder..
They pay SEVERAL hundred dollars more than we do, South of the Boarder..
Doing the money conversion, the o/h price is inline w/ the shop prices down here{rip-off} but the cost for the weight retainer is not.. as u well know..