Wabco scrapers at work

squid_wood777 · May 28, 2019

I was going to buy one of his books and a couple of other,s including the Buster Peterson one which is just about rare,few copies in the states but the prices are way out there,so i thought i would go Euclid and Letourneau until i seen shipping cost,s.I was on Amazon.

looneytunes · Aug 8, 2019

I'm not sure about the model before the 111a but I have a question about a 111a. I have one and the main transformer is putting over 30amps to the batteries. I know the flux bridge is suppose to regulate this current but mine is not. Can anybody tell me what check or do to it to prevent this excess current. Thanks for any help.

Tones · Aug 8, 2019

I think the model before the 111a was called the Hancock 10e- same front end as the DPull.

Gord229 · Aug 8, 2019

looneytunes said:
I'm not sure about the model before the 111a but I have a question about a 111a. I have one and the main transformer is putting over 30amps to the batteries. I know the flux bridge is suppose to regulate this current but mine is not. Can anybody tell me what check or do to it to prevent this excess current. Thanks for any help.

Just had a quick read through my C'Pull service manual and it says " More than normal charge rate indicates !. Flux bridge lost, or 2. Flux bridge shimmed out too far." I have never done this but I presume you would be able to do a resistance (ohm) test across the flux bridge terminals with a multimeter. No resistance would indicate that it has failed. If you have some resistance then you could try removing a couple of shims to increase the resistance and lower the charge rate.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Gordon

looneytunes · Aug 9, 2019

I havent ohm.across it but have taken shims out and added all that would go in between the coils. With em removed its sure putting out according the amp gauge at high rpm but with all in its reduced some but not near enough. I will ohm and see if some other magnetic material would work. That's for the info.

RZucker · Aug 9, 2019

looneytunes said:
I havent ohm.across it but have taken shims out and added all that would go in between the coils. With em removed its sure putting out according the amp gauge at high rpm but with all in its reduced some but not near enough. I will ohm and see if some other magnetic material would work. That's for the info.

Now I really gotta dig out a manual, IIRC the shims are supposed to be Non magnetic and there should be a minimum of 1 installed. Seemed to me they were non magnetic stainless steel or a type of fiberglass sheet.

DMiller · Aug 9, 2019

I was thinking FBGLS or phenolic. Insulators.

RZucker · Aug 9, 2019

This is all I can find right now, and it doesn't add much to the op's information. Somewhere I have a B70 manual that has more info.

looneytunes · Aug 10, 2019

RZucker said:
Now I really gotta dig out a manual, IIRC the shims are supposed to be Non magnetic and there should be a minimum of 1 installed. Seemed to me they were non magnetic stainless steel or a type of fiberglass sheet.

The only reason I said magnetic is because I think I read that in the patent. Google flux bridge and pull up the patent on that invention. It's pretty interesting and correct me if I'm wrong.

looneytunes · Aug 10, 2019

I have that same manual and read the troubleshooting part about 10 times and have not been about to reduce the amps to batteries. I'm wondering if that diode rectifier has anything to do with it. I've tried removing and adding shims using the same shims and using insulated and non insulated material on the flux bridge with no luck. Thanks for your time.

RZucker said:
This is all I can find right now, and it doesn't add much to the op's information. Somewhere I have a B70 manual that has more info.View attachment 200324

RZucker · Aug 10, 2019

looneytunes said:
The only reason I said magnetic is because I think I read that in the patent. Google flux bridge and pull up the patent on that invention. It's pretty interesting and correct me if I'm wrong.

I'll read up on it, But after nearly 45 years of working on the things, I'm pretty sure it was non magnetic shims and non magnetic stainless bolts that held the bridge on. The more shims, the higher the voltage, used to shim the transformer bridges on the hydraulic steer machines to get 4-410V at high idle with no load on the elevator, that made them load quick. Those used stainless shims. (non magnetic).

RZucker · Aug 10, 2019

looneytunes said:
I have that same manual and read the troubleshooting part about 10 times and have not been about to reduce the amps to batteries. I'm wondering if that diode rectifier has anything to do with it. I've tried removing and adding shims using the same shims and using insulated and non insulated material on the flux bridge with no luck. Thanks for your time.

If you have a blown diode passing current both directions it will raise your charging current and boil batteries. Check diodes.

looneytunes · Aug 10, 2019

Okay I may be completely wrong on that. That dude has got me flipped and aggravated especially with this 100+ weather down here in texas. The manual is showing the diamond plate over the top holding the shims. Mine has the brackets on each side with shims tacked to the brackets. 2 identical ones. One for the top and one for the bottom and a long 3/8 bolt on each side holding them together. I'm pretty sure I used just regular 3/8 bolts not stainless. That could be part of my problem right there. Thanks for the help.

looneytunes · Aug 10, 2019

RZucker said:
If you have a blown diode passing current both directions it will raise your charging current and boil batteries. Check diodes.

Okay I'll check em.. thanks alot.. yea them batteries are expensive. They will work for a little while then not long after a good boil or 2 they will short out.

Arlington Farms · Aug 30, 2019

JCarr said:
I'm new to this sight, so may be out of Line. I Sold WABCO SCRAPERS and naturally am biased. The 222g was a great unit, Features that made it outperform Comp. was VIP which help control s When Wheels started to spin it would slow that wheel down in sand or mud and it could continue without Burying it. The Traction Sensing Differential . The Tractor was in constant Lock-up until it was turned, that made it able to Duck Walk without breaking, (No Pushing a Lockup devise, or Holding it in Lockup and Duck Walk it W/O Breakage. We also installed Turbo II, and Cowl Mufflers for Noise Elevator was Full torque down to about 1000 RPM, A Cat, Clark, Terex with Hydraulic would Lug and Elevator Lugged with it. Sometimes the Diode in Elevator would go bad. Corner Bits were Visible on Both sides, due to Central Operator Placement. 23-35 machines had same Wheel, Engine, and Tranny Front and Rear, and Rear supplied Hydraulics, No High Pressure Hydraulics came over Goose neck into Cab Great Safety Feature, To Bad Corporate Decisions Prevailed. Great Machines.

im trying to identify a wabco machine only info i have i model number DPF2 two head light 5 speed man trans detroit power elevatoe small bowl

Gord229 · Aug 30, 2019

The machine you have is a model D Tournapull tractor and the bowl will be either 10E2 Hancock or 111A Wabco. You can tell the difference from looking at the bowl side reinforcing, If it is all straight down then it is a 10E2. If one straight and the others diagonal then it is a 111A. Hope this helps. Cheers Gordon

Arlington Farms · Aug 31, 2019

Gord229 said:
The machine you have is a model D Tournapull tractor and the bowl will be either 10E2 Hancock or 111A Wabco. You can tell the difference from looking at the bowl side reinforcing, If it is all straight down then it is a 10E2. If one straight and the others diagonal then it is a 111A. Hope this helps. Cheers Gordon

Ok thank I have the 10e2 bowl ... what is the cubic yards ? 10 ?

Arlington Farms · Aug 31, 2019

Gord229 said:
The machine you have is a model D Tournapull tractor and the bowl will be either 10E2 Hancock or 111A Wabco. You can tell the difference from looking at the bowl side reinforcing, If it is all straight down then it is a 10E2. If one straight and the others diagonal then it is a 111A. Hope this helps. Cheers Gordon

Ok thank I have the 10e2 bowl ... what is the cubic yards ? 10 ? thank you very much its my first scraper , have a poultry farm / cattle farm to put it to work on .. im sure im gonna be needing some help from yall good folks soon enough ,,, thank you

Gord229 · Sep 1, 2019

Yes you are correct the 10E2 Hancock is rated at 10 cubic yards. Have fun with your first scraper and, if you are anything like me, you will still have it 18 years later. All the best.
Gordon

Arlington Farms · Sep 13, 2019

RZucker said:
I'm still pretty sure those fell into the 111A classification.

ok well im learning that this machine is not ready to work as i was hoping elevator runs but week one phase has 100 volt drop will not steer with elevator engaged but will steer fine other wise rectifier been switched to new style have 3 volts at rectifier where i should have like 70 volts the 104 to ground test indicated low voltage as well have a 111a book that im trying to use and learning about using volt meter im in way over my head seems like machine has a lot of potential located north east arkansas if you can help 870 335 5606 Lee

Wabco scrapers at work

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