Btw, even if you don’t have regen, or check valve is fine - “oil shooting out” is not very descriptive and conclusive until you measure that pressure! On the open center system it might be just a return gallery back pressure induced by return filter!
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580SK DIPPER CYLINDER blowing out the end
- Thread starter CARL COSSIN
- Start date
CARL COSSIN
Member
THANKS TVA I rebuilt the control valve body for the dipper and noticed that one of the poppets was sticking a little when I pressed it in and out. I reassembled the valve body with new seals. im ready to put the valve unit back in but I have to pull out the pins this guy put in to hold the gland in place. of course the pins bent and didn't do the job. after all of the comments and help from all of you guys I have decided that the guy that rebuild the cylinder apparently stripped the tube and or gland when he rebuilt the cylinder. removing the pins will be a bear but I am determined to get it done. after which I will recut the threads on the cylinder and gland and weld it after I get it back together..hope it workd. the cylinder is very expensive to replace and I believe I pulled the valve assy for nothing on some bad advice.. thanks for all the feedback..
Welder Dave
Senior Member
What do you mean "I have decided"? If the threads were stripped by the guy that rebuilt the cylinder it's up to him to fix it or replace it. Before welding it, I'd see if it could be repaired. You weld it and burn a seal you're no better off.
alrman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 3,308
- Location
- QLD Australia
- Occupation
- Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
"The Guy" who rebuilt the cylinder is not necessarily to blame, apart from not advising you if he had trouble pulling the cylinder apart or if the threads looked worn or damaged from rust.
It's not uncommon to have a problem with these cylinders during disassembly due to their design - not having an oring at the flange of the gland to prevent moisture entering the threaded area of the tube & also not having thread on the entire OD of the gland.
You may not be able to repair the threads as their may not be enough steel there to do so.
If you can get the gland to screw back & you decide to use weld to retain it to the cylinder (I have done this in order to keep a machine working while waiting for parts & a more suitable time to carry out repair
) don't fully weld the circumference of the gland - just a series of about 6 x 3/4" stitches should do the trick, allowing some cooling time in between welds & wrapping an old wet towel around the cylinder barrel, near the weld area, to absorb some heat.
PS - use low hydrogen rods.
It's not uncommon to have a problem with these cylinders during disassembly due to their design - not having an oring at the flange of the gland to prevent moisture entering the threaded area of the tube & also not having thread on the entire OD of the gland.
You may not be able to repair the threads as their may not be enough steel there to do so.
If you can get the gland to screw back & you decide to use weld to retain it to the cylinder (I have done this in order to keep a machine working while waiting for parts & a more suitable time to carry out repair
) don't fully weld the circumference of the gland - just a series of about 6 x 3/4" stitches should do the trick, allowing some cooling time in between welds & wrapping an old wet towel around the cylinder barrel, near the weld area, to absorb some heat. PS - use low hydrogen rods.