swing motor removal on 2001 hitachi 135US

stormin · Aug 13, 2019

I am having trouble removing the base bolts to pull up the swing motor so I can get at the leaking seal below it. I am losing lots of gear oil. It looks like they should just spin out but a 3/4 inch drive socket and large cheater bar is not breaking them loose. Any suggestions? a 1/2 inch electric hammer wrench does not touch them either.

Wilson892 · Aug 13, 2019

When I removed the swing gear from my 892 Deere I had to use my 1” impact to loosen them. They’re in tight and likely with red loctite

Best of luck, John

tool_king · Aug 13, 2019

stormin said:
I am having trouble removing the base bolts to pull up the swing motor so I can get at the leaking seal below it. I am losing lots of gear oil. It looks like they should just spin out but a 3/4 inch drive socket and large cheater bar is not breaking them loose. Any suggestions? a 1/2 inch electric hammer wrench does not touch them either.

Use a good powerful 1 inch impact wrench with socket keeping extension length as short as possible . The bolts are torqued in in tight I know for sure. I have a special extension bar that is one inch drive made from a cylinder rod that does twist when torquing them to spec .I have seen swing motor rip out and break the bolts shearing them in there holes .

stormin · Aug 14, 2019

Thanks. I will try the job on Saturday and let you know how it went.

Tags · Aug 15, 2019

You could also put some heat to the bolt heads to soften the red lock tite

uffex · Aug 15, 2019

Good day
You have some options hire a torque multiplier this has worked for me in the past another solution requires some fabrication of a right angle adapter with the socket attached at one end and the extension bar at the other if you need a sketch PM me. For what its worth the longer I have been from the actual stud the less force I seem able to apply - a short extension for example will be more likely to loosen than that of a long one.
Kind regards
Uffex

uffex · Aug 15, 2019

I found the illustration used it when I was in the sticks.
KR
Uffex

stormin · Aug 16, 2019

Tags said:
You could also put some heat to the bolt heads to soften the red lock tite

How hot do you suggest I get the bolt heads to? enough to burn the paint, or cherry red? Thanks

stormin · Aug 16, 2019

uffex said:
I found the illustration used it when I was in the sticks.
KR
Uffex

Is there a trick to opening attached images? I am not having any luck?

stormin · Aug 16, 2019

stormin said:
How hot do you suggest I get the bolt heads to? enough to burn the paint, or cherry red? Thanks

Will the lock tight regain its holding strength after the bolt cools down again? Do I have to do the removing at the high temp right away? Thanks

John C. · Aug 17, 2019

Heated lock tight turns to powder after it is heated. You don't have to go cherry red but the paint will be all gone by the time the glue melts.
Be real careful of setting something on fire!
I used to use my 4 to 1 multiplier on an extension for those. The pull on the wrench is opposite of the push on the multiplier so the extension stays straight.
Good Luck!

uffex · Aug 17, 2019

Good day Storming
My sincere apologise I just picked up on the thread that you could not see the PDF image try this one.
Kind regards
Uffex

stormin · Aug 17, 2019

A stronger impact and all the bolts are off today, swing motor is out. now on to getting at the seal. Hope there is a part number on it for re ordering. Thanks for the help with the ideas.

stormin · Aug 21, 2019

60.00 dollars for a new seal and I should be back in business. Very cool. This is a great forum. Thanks for all the info.

jonno634 · Aug 21, 2019

stormin said:
60.00 dollars for a new seal and I should be back in business. Very cool. This is a great forum. Thanks for all the info.

Like stated above, a torque multiplier worked for me, heat didnt, neither did 1inch impact. That was on a JD892E. Good way to clean out the slew (grease mixed with hyd oil since you lost the seal). I tarped in the car body and used a bullet heater. It melted/liquified and ran out they the plug hole in the bottom. Worked really slick (I did it in middle of a snow storm).

stormin · Aug 21, 2019

good to know. I will try cleaning it tomorrow.

stormin · Aug 22, 2019

Here is a picture with the swing motor assembly removed. there is a 2 inch deep mixture of gear oil/grease/water. 1 and 1/2 inch of emulsion and 1/2 inch of water. Any tricks to cleaning it out other than pressure washer? is there a drain somewhere that I can not see? Thanks

stormin · Aug 22, 2019

There is an X on the picture icon but if I click on edit it shows me the picture, hopefully this helps you to see it.

jonno634 · Aug 22, 2019

Up under the car body, there should be a small access hole. Usually about 3in across with two bolts. The bullet heater trick worked awesome for me on by 892E, to clean it out. Not sure what other tricks people have.

Wilson892 · Aug 22, 2019

On the 892D I had the drain plate off and fished a hose and then a rope around the swing tub. Tied a bath towel to the rope and pulled it around the tub a couple times and managed to clean it up pretty good. Pumped in a 20liter pail of HP2 grease and put it all back together. Make sure the central swivel top seal is good or you’ll just fill the tub back up with water later.

John

swing motor removal on 2001 hitachi 135US

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