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CASE 450 . DIESEL

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
Don't let it get to 230, stop at 210 and let it idle at medium speed, it should cool down to under 200 in a few minutes, if it doesn't, then something is wrong. As long as the level is correct and you're not losing fluid, it's fine to run it hot, but don't keep doing that because something is wrong.

Don't replace a radiator without figuring out what is wrong first. You can take the temps of the thermostat housing going to the radiator, then the water pump housing coming back from the radiator, and a couple spots on the head, while the engine is as hot as you get it. Those temps will tell you/us what is wrong, or narrow it down a little at least.

Or you can clean the radiator, if you think it's clean then put a light on one side and look through from the other side.
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
So I went out today and started the dozer . I let it run for about thirty minutes . The tempeture on the engine gauge read 330. I shot the thermostat housing at 210 I shot the engine block at 256 and the water pump housing at 190 . So what do you think . My radiator needs to be topped off as it is low again but I never see any sign of green antifreeze anywhere on the ground or within the machine . Tomorrow I am going to flush the system with iRonite and fill it again . Any suggestions?
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
So I went out today and started the dozer . I let it run for about thirty minutes . The tempeture on the engine gauge read 330. I shot the thermostat housing at 210 I shot the engine block at 256 and the water pump housing at 190 . So what do you think . My radiator needs to be topped off as it is low again but I never see any sign of green antifreeze anywhere on the ground or within the machine . Tomorrow I am going to flush the system with iRonite and fill it again . Any suggestions?
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
those temps don't make sense to me. When you drain it, use a clean white bucket to catch the antifreeze, then see what settles out. I like to flush by running rain water in it for a few hours, then draining into another clean white bucket, repeat until it comes out with only a red tint to the water, no more sediment. This is for old rusted cast iron engines.

Is your fan working? fan belt tight enough and in good shape? Can you see through the radiator? see any gunky spots with a light on the other side?
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
i cleaned the fins on the radiator with a hose so you can see through it . you can tell there is a couple spots where it has been brazed in the fins . ( repaired ) overall it doesnt seem to bad but i have to see whats in it . the belt was definitely loose so i tightened it yesterday . it probably had a inch and a half of play instead of one half inch play . the whole bucket thing will be hard because its not like the water is going to fall straight down . its very tight and i would need to connect a long hose from the radiator to the ground . theres no spot for a bucket except the ground and the water will be hitting the chassis before anything . ill figure something out .
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
those temps don't make sense to me. When you drain it, use a clean white bucket to catch the antifreeze, then see what settles out. I like to flush by running rain water in it for a few hours, then draining into another clean white bucket, repeat until it comes out with only a red tint to the water, no more sediment. This is for old rusted cast iron engines.

Is your fan working? fan belt tight enough and in good shape? Can you see through the radiator? see any gunky spots with a light on the other side?
update ....so i flushed my radiator today with ironite flush solution . then i put a bottle of stop leak in it . i did replace the 6 inch hose off the bottom of the radiator to the water pump . it was bad and most likely one of the reasons i was leaking coolant . i just never noticed it . i did however notice another slow drip about every second . its coming from behind the fan pulley that is attached to the front of the motor . do you think its a bad seal where the shaft comes out for the pulley ? it held 185 -190 all day for me today after the flush and repair but i know eventually it will get low again the question is how long will it take . other than that its running great .
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
i did however notice another slow drip about every second . its coming from behind the fan pulley that is attached to the front of the motor .

That's commonly called the water pump. ;)
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
Ok so is it a hard fix ? You think seal or new pump ? That means I have to pull everything off the front end , front hood, radiator , and pump to have it repaired ?
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
Ok so is it a hard fix ? You think seal or new pump ? That means I have to pull everything off the front end , front hood, radiator , and pump to have it repaired ?
It doesn’t look hard to remove the pump . According to my assessment there is anything wrong with the pump it’s self , has to be a seal where the shaft comes out for the pulley . I’m going to let it go for a little while because it’s such a slow leak . I will address it though in the future .
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
Well that’s one way of expressing the importance of getting it fixed right away. I guess I know what I’ll be doing tomorrow . Thankyou
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
Don't ever use stop leak.

Is the leak on the shaft that the fan is mounted to? or is it coming out the bottom of the water pump through a weep hole? If it is coming through the shaft, then is that hole on the bottom plugged up with a mud dauber nest, or a threaded plug? If it's plugged with a threaded plug, or a carved piece of wood, then somebody tried to fix the problem in the past, made it worse by forcing the coolant through the bearings, and it's been like this for a while, bad, bad, bad.

Now if the weep hole is leaking and it's not going through the bearing, then you could run it an hour at a time every now and then until you're ready to drain it for the fall, IF the water is full before you start, and the fan doesn't have any wobble in the shaft. But are you going to waste that much antifreeze? or forget to drain the water in a month and crack the engine?

You can rebuild a water pump, but don't try it. Just get a rebuilt water pump, maybe find a kit and rebuild your old one for a spare if you want to try it. The kit will come with new bearings and seals, really not that hard SOMETIMES.

Did you mean "IRON OUT" for flushing the cooling system? I don't think that's a good idea and haven't found any sites that do either. You are hereby disallowed from deviating from HEF recomendations, for your own safety of course.
 
Last edited:

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
Don't ever use stop leak.

Is the leak on the shaft that the fan is mounted to? or is it coming out the bottom of the water pump through a weep hole? If it is coming through the shaft, then is that hole on the bottom plugged up with a mud dauber nest, or a threaded plug? If it's plugged with a threaded plug, or a carved piece of wood, then somebody tried to fix the problem in the past, made it worse by forcing the coolant through the bearings, and it's been like this for a while, bad, bad, bad.

Now if the weep hole is leaking and it's not going through the bearing, then you could run it an hour at a time every now and then until you're ready to drain it for the fall, IF the water is full before you start, and the fan doesn't have any wobble in the shaft. But are you going to waste that much antifreeze? or forget to drain the water in a month and crack the engine?

You can rebuild a water pump, but don't try it. Just get a rebuilt water pump, maybe find a kit and rebuild your old one for a spare if you want to try it. The kit will come with new bearings and seals, really not that hard SOMETIMES.

Did you mean "IRON OUT" for flushing the cooling system? I don't think that's a good idea and haven't found any sites that do either. You are hereby disallowed from deviating from HEF recomendations, for your own safety of course.
Well , I don’t feel to welcome here anymore . I never claimed to know a thing about case dozers . That’s why I’m on this site trying to get knowledge and advice . I’m sorry I bothered everyone with my ignorance .
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
You can take it however you want. We're here to help, but we can't fix it over the screen. You won't get any better advice than from this site, take it or leave it.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,478
Location
Canada
Irontite makes sealers and flush for cooling systems but they are not designed to repair a leaking water pump. Everybody is trying to help you. Water pumps are designed to tell you when there is a problem. It is best to just replace it at the earliest convenience to avoid a very costly catastrophic failure. Even if you only putz around with the machine and it's not leaking bad you will figure it's not worth worrying about. Then a couple hours becomes a couple month's and next thing you know it takes out your radiator. Water pumps generally aren't too expensive.

http://irontite.com/
 

mcprp

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
404
Location
rochester, new york
I didn’t understand the , you are hereby disallowed from deviating from from hef recommendations . What does that mean ? I found out a water pump is only 100.00 bucks , why didn’t you just tell me it’s a cheap and easy fix . I thought it was another case 800 dollar part . Guess I’m a great fan of optimism . You start saying things like bad bad bad and that scares the hell out of me . Can anyone tell me how the upper hydraulic piston cylinders detach from the side of the front hood . I see there is a bolt on there and when removed down inside there is what looks like a ball bearing . Do you push that ball bearing in to unlock it from the housing it sits in ? If the service manual told me these things , I wouldn’t have to ask . Once again sorry for my ignorance .
 
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