Kobelco...dead in water...need to load on trailer.

You should be able to get the harness in sections, engine and pump harness can be got separate to cab harness. Last time I got engine and pump harness for a 2006 210 it was around 2000 euros

Tony Wells said:

OK....questions about moving this machine.


Ok.....to take the sprockets out of service, simply removed the cover opposite the drive motor(s) and take all the bolts out that mate the sprocket to the rest of the workings of the drive motor and everything. I have looked through the manual briefly, and the details aren't there. I supposed that's because a trained monkey could do that. There is a cover (round) as the very outside component covering the drive mechanism. The actual motor is "inboard", so won't be touched. Question: Once the cover bolts are removed, will this be full of oil or anything? R

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There will be oil inside that cover only a few litres. When cover is off remove the small gear at the centre and the drive will free wheel. Refit the cover to keep inside of drive clean when moving

Kobelco ireland said:

You should be able to get the harness in sections, engine and pump harness can be got separate to cab harness. Last time I got engine and pump harness for a 2006 210 it was around 2000 euros

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I intended to stop by the dealer and go over what I'm up against but time got away from me and I was already headed home before I remembered. Guess that's on tomorrow's agenda. I doesn't surprise me that there are several "pieces" to the harness. It's too complex a machine to have it all in one. Back when this all started, you could read the codes, and one I remember in particular was something cooling related. Not a temp fault, but seems like a fluid level fault....so naturally I checked on the coolant level and found it acceptable. Then the information of rodent damage entered the picture. Rumor only, but it's all I had to go on. In this case, I'm thinking I should replace all the sections unless I can physically see them, end to end, and check continuity in addition to checking for potential rodent damage. Cab harness is trashed, between the 4 legged rats and the 2 legged ones. It will be replaced.

I just hope it runs when I reconstruct the wiring. No telling what else has been chewed.

When removing cover, will entire outer gear housing come off with. Some of the finals I've serviced are like that.
When removing sun gear, it will have a little rotational tension...push/pull machine to lose tension...remember, it will ROLL away freely once the sun gear is removed. Use caution and common sense.

At least this sitting on level ground, sunk just a bit from being there 3 years or so. Not too likely to run away from me, but I'll secure it anyway. Just good practice. Thanks for the reminder.

ON most excavators the bolts the that attach the sprocket to the hub are accessible from the out outside ( not to be confused with the bolts that attach the outer cover of the planetary hub) though I have seen some go the other way. If its possible remove the outer ring of bolts as I suggested earlier which are a little further inboard than the outer ring of bolts you may see.

It's caked in dirt at the moment, so I'll have to clean it up to see which way it goes on this one. It would be best if I didn't have to open a gasketed joint. Although, the left side is leaking somewhere already so I will have to tear it down eventually. Looks to be mostly on the inside though.

Thanks Tones

tcw

That's it out in the weeds, on location. I had it pressure washed today in the area of the sprocket retaining bolts, so getting ready to start on this one. I'm still puzzling on releasing the brake on the swing motor. I have a Skytrak and a heavy gin-pole truck to reposition the boom, dipper and bucket, so I'm thinking that I'll just need to break a few hoses and catch the hydraulic oil in buckets, then strap or chain everything in position. If possible I'm going to try to keep the oil clean, but if that isn't practical, I'll catch it, and dispose of it. Even if I remove the feed and return lines from the swing motor, although it will be messy, I still can't spin it because of the brake, is that correct? By default, the brake is active by means of springs, sort of like a trailer, if I understand right.

If I can attach a couple of pictures, could someone point out which port to pressure up to release the swing motor brake? Or if more or different/better pics are needed, let me know. I'll be happy to provide what I can. Click the pic to enlarge.

Many thanks,
tcw

The small pipe that goes into motor through the 45 degree fitting is the swing brake release. Apply no more that 50 bar pressure

It took me a while to spot that connection hidden under those other lines. Must be getting old.....!!

50bar in Christian Units is about 750psi. I'd suggest to simply pump the pressure up slowly with a hand Portapower while at the same time gently pulling sideways on the bucket and quit pumping as soon as the upper frame starts to move.

Thanks nige for posting the picture with arrow, I tried and gave up lol

Thank you, Nige and Kobelco ireland. I thought about labeling all of then 1.2.3....etc and just letting you guys just tell me which number but there were too many of them and I'd probably have missed the very one needed. I had planned on using a portapower. Glad you gave me some guidelines for pressure. My plan was to just apply enough to allow movement anyway, but that gives me a no-go point and a target. It appears that this will get started sometime this coming week. I apologize for the sideways pictures. I didn't realize it was turned. (please try to remember I'm the new guy here, but I'll catch on)

That begs a question to mind....with the swing motor being engaged (presumably) won't the control solenoids be closed in that circuit? And doesn't that mean I will need to remove the main lines to it? That's going to be a little messy, but there shouldn't be that much oil captive in the motor I would say. But if I can hose away from it with some spare hose into a bucket maybe not so messy. Planning on a couple of helpers on hand for this anyway.

Many thanks,
tcw

Think I might video this, from about 50 feet away....might be good for a future laugh.

Most slew motors free wheel without a break. Thats why they fit breaks.

I was hoping for that, but never gutted one of these so wasn't sure how it was going to behave once the brake was released. It would be much easier on things without worrying about dealing with loose hydraulic lines and a mess of oil pushed out of the motor. It looks like I'm setting up to learn a lot about Kobelco excavators on this one. Never had to deal with moving a dead excavator before of any make, so this should prove educational. So far, the brute force crane lift is sounding more like a bad idea. And still have to deal with the extended boom, etc. It's available if all else fails, but I've been described as "tenacious" (aka stubborn) when approaching a problem, so I'm sticking with rigging it onto our own trailer as long as I can before moving a crane at lease once out to where this machine is just to drive under it and set it down. Almost sounds like cheating.

I haven't looked at the breakdown of the associated gearbox, but if it's a worm gear arrangement, won't that present a problem? In my experience, worm drives don't like to run "backwards". In fact, some are specifically designed to make that near impossible. I'd hate to break something this. If so, I might be able to cobble together a portable hydraulic power unit large enough to spin the upper frame. In fact, I have an electric one, although it's not anything crazy hp. I think maybe 10. But with no extra load, that should do it, on level ground, I'd think, once the brake is released. I'll have a generator on hand if I need it. Have to round up some adapters and some hosing, but that's doable.

Thanks for easing my mind, Tones.
tcw

It ain't worm drive. It's a variable displacement, reversible, hydraulic motor, sitting on a planetary gearbox. The brake is usually in between.

yep, if the machine is level, after you release the brakes, you can usually just lean on the bucket and turn the machine by hand

That simplifies things considerably. I couldn't see any reason for it to be a worm drive. Plenty of room for a planetary gearbox under it.

One of the guys who may/may not be very involved in this overall project suggested pulling the motor completely off, or at least lifting it up and blocking it to disengage the splined shaft. Had I thought about that I probably would have realized it was not a worm drive. But, I worked in the heat and humidity today so my brain isn't clicking. Sorry for sidetracking things. Forget the worm drive.

Thanks for getting my thinking back on track, mccall.

tcw

Mitch, that's good to know. It appears to be fairly level, but I'll be onboard with the Portapower and make sure the helpers know that it should be freewheeling at that point. I plan on getting the boom, etc all buckled up before I attempt to get the upper frame to move. it will be strapped to something to control it, in any case.

Thanks,
tcw

The slew motor in that machine won't freewheel after you release the brake. You will have to remove the two feed pipes that are located just above the pipe for releasing the slew brake. It will only loose a half litre of oil even when you push it around

Kobelco ireland said:

The slew motor in that machine won't freewheel after you release the brake. You will have to remove the two feed pipes that are located just above the pipe for releasing the slew brake. It will only loose a half litre of oil even when you push it around

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Would backing off the cross port relief valves on the motor allow it to swing?