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IH 175C Master Link

CFrank90

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Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Pekin, IL
Hello, I’ve got a 1975 IH 175C that needs to have a track split to replace the seals for the track adjuster. This has the pinned master link not the alligator style. Also there are no retaining pins in this master link.

I’ve been told it’s likely the pin will be ruined as it comes out and I should have a new one on hand; however, I’m not having any luck finding a new or aftermarket replacement.

I’m going to get help from a buddy who was a former Deere construction mechanic. We do not have a track press and it’ll be the heat and beat process which he said may likely turn into torching the pin out.

Those who have experience with this, do you have any suggestions on replacing the pin with something from a different model that will fit? Or suggestions on making sure it isn’t damaged? The guys at Blue Ridge tractor parts said a machine shop could just build a new pin but this will leave the machine down for awhile and I’d like it to be a quick job.

Thank you

Also, if a new pin does need to be machined, what type of steel should it be made out of?

3C4251EB-8213-460F-A740-A9E7C58445CE.jpeg 0BB164BC-287A-4CF2-A876-3ACFACF833A2.jpeg 923AB4D6-5B5B-45B5-8682-34EA348B801A.jpeg
 
Last edited:

wrwtexan

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Feb 5, 2011
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558
Location
Cooper, Texas
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Indy Farm Wrench, heavy land clearing, rancher
20170214_131303.jpg
Here is an option that has worked for me on several machines lacking a master link. Both sides of my TD20B have this and makes for a low wear in outer panel and easily removable master pin. I pushed them out and polished them to a slip fit. Leave the bolt loose With a lock or double nut for movement as welding or hard secured will break.
 

John C.

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I don't know who's tracks are on it but we used to knock them out all the time with a rose budd and a sixteen pound hammer. They are nowhere near as type as a Cat brand master link. You do need a good drift pin and someone to hold it while it is being slammed. We used to weld a chuck of cable to the pin to reduce the shock on our hands from a mis-hit.
 

Queenslander

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Apr 5, 2009
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Location
Australia
Or you could just cut the links vertically through the stud between the pins.
Sounds redneck, I know, but I’ve done it plenty of times on tractors up to HD16 size and never had a problem.
To rejoin, vee off the ends, bolt the track plate back on to realign and weld up.
Saves all the drama with loose master pins.
 

Vetech63

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Aug 10, 2016
Messages
6,362
Location
Oklahoma
I haven't had a master pin yet that I haven't been able to match up at an aftermarket undercarriage joint. I quit heating and beating on a $20 pin years ago. I blow both ends out about an inch deep and knock them out with a 4 lb hammer and a drift punch. Takes less than 5 minutes in most cases.
 

CFrank90

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Pekin, IL
Thanks guys!
Also what are your opinions on blocking the idler out to the tensioned position with some sort of steel welded in there for a short term (May turn into a long term fix)?

The pictures are to see the sagged side vs the tensioned side.
2240638D-D18B-4088-8806-DB66DDCB7567.jpeg 0A75EFAD-4004-4B84-B8B0-83936B60CB0E.jpeg
 

John C.

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First, it's not worth the risk of damage to the internal parts of the final drives. Second, it's not a big job to reseal the track adjuster cylinders.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Finding someone with a pin press to have Unpin your rails is a better choice, if really have to destroy that pin find a used set of rails and cut the ears away from track pins then have a machine shop machine/grind them to Master Pin dimension as to use conventional steels is asking for a soft pin to fail.
 

DMiller

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Going to have to use as a pin punch and hit it with something more substantial. Took my own crawler master pins out, took some choice words and effort on a twenty pound sledge, welded a guide under a track shoe to the link for a drift pin and set to flailing it like a b*****d step child.

If think may end up performing again, there are some pin drive set ups for Sledge that work better than what I had, usually clamp into link and on shoe with the drift Captured and maintained in a ready to flail position. WTC makes the one I have seen used.

https://www.wtcmachinery.com/produc...able-track-presses/hfpp-hands-free-pin-pusher
 
Last edited:

Tones

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Before you split the track measure the chain wear. Worn out tracks can cause the the adjuster ram to over extend then the seal fails. If the chains are worn remove a link when you split the track then rejoin. Being careful about the way you go about it you should gain 1 pin. ;)
 

CFrank90

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Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Pekin, IL
Thanks for all the reply’s guys! We’ll try to get it out with heating and beating first. If that doesn’t work I’ll look into a track press. I went to high school with another guy who is a local Cat mechanic who may be able to over some assistance.

The guy who has offered to help has a TD-15C that he replaced the rails/sprockets on but his were alligator style masters. We’ll try to measure the length somehow. I did try pumping it up 6 months ago or so but it just slowly went back in. But it didn’t look crazy stretched or pushed out..

That pin punch hammer looks neat except I may want to have my hands further away from the action!
 

schlosserj

New Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
2
Location
Virginia
I rebuilt a tensioner last year on my 1973 175C without splitting the track. We released the pressure on the adjuster, pushed the idler back to fully retracted position, blocked up one side of the machine, and derailed the track chain by running it forward and prying it off the idler with a digging iron. Reversed the process to reinstall.
 

Labparamour

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Sep 6, 2013
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Washington
I agree with Tones for checking track chain for wear.
Your pic of the good side shows the idler at about the end of its travel.
If everything else is pretty good- shortening by a link will get you a few more miles.
 

John C.

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The idler support blocks are not touching the end plates yet so you likely won't be able to pull a link. You can pull those plates as the ends of the track frames and run until the front end of the support block sticks out about a half an inch. Then you can pull a link.
If it is International Harvester track heat the pin boss to red hot on both sides with a rose bud and then just knock the pin out. If it is some other manufacturer you will likely have better luck burning the pin and getting a new one to reinstall. You are better off that way anyway because the master pins are the only support on the chain on that link. They wear like crazy. On the rest of the links the bushings lock into the mating link and help support the chain.
 

Tones

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It's the first time I have seen the R/H side track ( dam puter) To me that sprocket looks better than 75% worn so please refer back to my earlier post.
 
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