That didn't go as planned...

When I broke the chain adjuster bolts from having the left side drive chain too loose I tightened the right side so it wouldn't break the adjuster bolts. My machine uses one #100 drive chain on each side. I thought I had it adjusted pretty good and there was play between the wheels. On taking it apart I must have had it a little too tight and has caused the wheel motor to leak into the chain case. I ordered a wheel motor from Loader Parts Source because in most causes internal damage causes the motor to blow out seals. I guess the best case is the motor can be repaired reasonably and I'll have a spare. Trying to do preventive maintenance backfired. In hindsight I'd rather have the chain adjuster bolts break. It's a an easy cheap fix. Going forward I'll tighten the chain just so it doesn't slap the bottom of the chain case when I rock the wheel back and forth when it's lifted off the ground. I've heard of chains breaking in skid steers which would be better than replacing a motor but would take a lot to break a #100 chain. Just kind of kicking myself. What can you do.

Welder Dave said:

I've heard of chains breaking in skid steers which would be better than replacing a motor

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Well my experience on broken drive chains is the fact that most of the time I have run into that it seems to always be the rear chain, in a nice wadded up clusterf%^k behind the rear sprocket and the chaincase. With little to no access. Its a chore to get in there with a cutting torch while there is oil residue flaming and trying to cut pieces of the chain out that you cant even see.

It would take a lot to break a #100 chain mind you when the adjuster bolts break from having too loose of chain, it snaps off all 3 5/8" grade 9 bolts welded together. Going by the book they say to remove the parking brake assembly and the chain completely. I got lucky (for lack of a better word) the connector link was right in front of me when I took the cover off. Had to take a couple small pieces of wood and block the chain against the case and pound on the link to get the outer plate off. Tried with a vise-grip and piece of steel and it wouldn't move. I just un-looped the chain from the motor sprocket and wired to the chain above. The brake disc will come off without having to remove the bracket and is out of the way enough. I'm sure other people have found short cuts and easier ways to do things than the book says.