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Dismounting Case 580 CK backhoe

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
CA42C7B2-A71F-4EC8-9B4D-76293341CB17.jpeg 8A226D64-55E2-434E-8270-6A2EDCD9B535.jpeg A6757480-9409-4848-B7A7-6C2A8D9E5470.jpeg hello everyone,

Figured it would be easier to take off the backhoe to do some work that I need to. Seems pretty straight forward once I get the 4 bolts loosened. My question is which lines do I reconnect to what? I don’t have the manual but did read another post about conncecting the supply line to the return line. Just not sure which one it is. This machine also doesn’t appear to have quick connections.

Thank you,
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
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Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,492
Location
Canada
I'm not familiar with the Case but would think the 2 lines going along the floorboard need to be connected if you want to be able to run the machine without the backhoe. On my Cat with a quick attach hoe, the lines going into and out of the backhoe valve spool get hooked together when the hoe is removed to complete the circuit. Your Case was never designed as a quick attach backhoe.
 

GT1955

Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Messages
20
Location
Alabama
Welcome Caseck, not a expert but a lot on this site are, the hoses do have to complete flow on tractor, when you take one off the other end of the other should connect to the one you removed, On removing the hoe I do not know what four bolts you are talking about, you should set the hoe on a triangle configuration and remove the 2 large pins at top, have to take pressure off with stabilizes and then just pick it up off the bottom cradle. Make sure it is stable and use blocking once you get it up off the cradle, then you can remove the hose and make the circuit and should be able to drive away from hoe. Be careful if this is your first time.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
I'm not familiar with the Case but would think the 2 lines going along the floorboard need to be connected if you want to be able to run the machine without the backhoe. On my Cat with a quick attach hoe, the lines going into and out of the backhoe valve spool get hooked together when the hoe is removed to complete the circuit. Your Case was never designed as a quick attach backhoe.
Thanks Welder Dave, that’s what I was thinking but just wasn’t sure.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
Welcome Caseck, not a expert but a lot on this site are, the hoses do have to complete flow on tractor, when you take one off the other end of the other should connect to the one you removed, On removing the hoe I do not know what four bolts you are talking about, you should set the hoe on a triangle configuration and remove the 2 large pins at top, have to take pressure off with stabilizes and then just pick it up off the bottom cradle. Make sure it is stable and use blocking once you get it up off the cradle, then you can remove the hose and make the circuit and should be able to drive away from hoe. Be careful if this is your first time.
Thank you GT1955, that’s what I’ll be doing, got all my blocking material ready so I can tackle this tomorrow morning. Definitely be careful since I haven’t done this before.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
19B8C98A-A97A-4CC3-A9D3-B18153D3A808.jpeg F141C24A-D1B8-4AC6-A3A8-866BBE2460D7.jpeg 59F1947B-6FEC-4FCE-863E-42E233A89AC6.jpeg 112F511B-7D06-4F35-9C3A-72B1514C0902.jpeg Thanks everyone for the help, today I was able to take off the backhoe with not much trouble. Now that I have room to see, it is impossible to mess up. You simply take the return line and attach it to the supply tube. Then the supply line gets reattached to the return on the backhoe. Problem is the hydraulic hoses are really frozen on there. Can’t seem to get them freed up. Any tips or suggestions? Only scary part was when I was pulling the tractor forward and it rolled off the pad I’m working on. This pulled the ancient looking return line like a rubber band. I was able to stop just before it looked like it would tear. Here are some pics of my current progress.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,985
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
Like Tinker said you'll need some good crowfoot wrenches and either breaker bar or ratchet and cheater pipe for leverage. You can heat the swivel fittings a bit to break the rust loose and if you can get a large punch or bar hit em with a hammer. Also sense you are evidently going to change the one hose for sure just cut it close enough to get a socket and air wrench on it.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
Thanks guys, have a set of crowfeet wrenches but only go up to 1”, so I have a larger set on order. Thanks for the tip Coy. I was going to try the crowfeet but if I can’t get it, I’ll likely cut it close to get a large socket and breaker bar on it.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Dec 19, 2014
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Location
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service tech
Thanks guys, have a set of crowfeet wrenches but only go up to 1”, so I have a larger set on order. Thanks for the tip Coy. I was going to try the crowfeet but if I can’t get it, I’ll likely cut it close to get a large socket and breaker bar on it.
Good luck with that.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
on those large female coupler nuts, place a large hammer against the back of the fitting, and hit the opposite flat with a medium or small hammer, repeat for each flat on the nut that you can reach. I don't think that stretched hose owes you anything, let it retire.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
on those large female coupler nuts, place a large hammer against the back of the fitting, and hit the opposite flat with a medium or small hammer, repeat for each flat on the nut that you can reach. I don't think that stretched hose owes you anything, let it retire.
Thanks Delmer, did use your technique to help get one of the hoses off.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
2BDEEAC7-27A7-4FB7-BEC3-CD1327FCD375.jpeg 326C3789-4C31-4CBA-891D-55B955EB9A65.jpeg 00D3C039-93C1-448E-8D53-710FA811208C.jpeg 17A0D74A-6600-4F5A-9FDD-B48F3434D5F9.jpeg Finally got my crowfeet wrenches so today I battled the old hoses and was able to get them off. Thanks for all of your help. I didn’t loose much fluid taking the hoses off, maybe a quarter gallon if that. Reinstalled new hoses. Started the loader and pulled forward a couple of feet and noticed the hydraulic response in the loader was delayed and sporadic. Shut the machine down and added hydraulic fluid till it came out the level weep hole. When I went to start the machine again it is stuck in gear or what seems like between second and neutral. Tomorrow I’ll try to get the machine out of gear so I can start it again. Not sure if these things are related or just by chance.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
29026B9C-30AF-457B-84B8-A72625768E63.jpeg 06A2C339-0BD8-4A66-9792-C5F903F19293.jpeg Got the loader out of gear and seems to be shifting as normal now. Must have been a fluke. Here is a picture of the loader looking odd without the backhoe.
 

Caseck

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Pennsylvania
AFAB22FC-2795-494E-8A5A-D91100E07A63.jpeg Still naked, putting in some work today in tight quarters. Glad I still had the hoe off. Picked up 1000 pound transformer no problem.
 
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