Case 350 Crawler kicking my butt

Vetech covered everything you need to do --heed his advice.
In the video, am I the only one that sees a motor spinning really fast, like it has very low compression or, it is getting fuel but not enough to start ?

I'm w/ you Tink.. UNLESS he has another vehicle tied to that starter or a battery charge on "START"..
Its spinning to fast IMO.. {no/low compression}
IS that throttle all the way OPEN.?? It looks like its at low idle.. PULL IT BACK..

thepumpguysc said:

Daaaam.. U should write a diagnostic manual..
Everyone should print that out & hang it in their shop.!!!
NICE...

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LMAO!!

The throttle is pulled open half way in the picture but I've also been trying to start it with the throttle all the way back. As for the fast cranking both batteries are new and fully charged with the charger still on them pumping out another 40 amps. The starter is brand new as is all the wiring from the battery to the starter and the ignition switch to the starter, its an aftermarket high torque starter, the original case starter never had that engine cranking that fast, the new starter is quite a bit smaller than the original too.

I like Vetech's advice, I'm going fix the remaining leaks that I have (fuel bowl and injector return line grommets), check to make sure the fuel filters have all the correct gaskets, and then start at square one. Hopefully I'll have all my parts by early next week.

Unless you have increased the voltage to the starter it seems to be spinning awful fast . Is that vapor coming out of the exhaust unburned fuel ?

I would assume that yes there is unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust, pos sprays fuel like crazy but doesnt start...I'm sure its inevitable that I'll have to decapitate this thing and decide if it's worth sleeving it. I'll just always be baffled at the fact that 1 day she ran just fine and the next day it was just a pile of garbage. This thing has been the bane of my existence.

frickenbored said:

This thing has been the bane of my existence.

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Welcome to heavy equipment!

Unless your compr. gauge is off by 100-200 psi, it should catch on ether,
"IF" the fuel is spraying at the correct time & enough of it..

As pumpguy just said, try to get it to start on ether.
I suggested that earlier and gave details on how to do it correctly .
At this point you have nothing to lose by trying it. It wouldn't surprise me that it won't run ether either.
I am thinking your looking at an engine that puked something when it, "sputtered and died" as you said.
Vetech's broken crankshaft theory is worth serious consideration.

I noticed the u shot it, THEN cranked it..
Howsa about shooting it WHILE cranking it.. THATS HOW its done..
Just stand-up & shoot it while turning the key/ pushing a button/holding 2 wires together..?? lol
Personally, when I'm alone, I like to use a starter button hooked directly to the starter.. THAT WAY I'm close to the action..
Of course if it has glow plugs u cant do that.. but that's not a factor here..

U have access to the flywheel & access to the crank.. just get into a position where u can move the crank & watch the flywheel..
Put a paint mark, chalk mark, white-out liquid.. just something that u CAN SEE on the flywheel.. & see if something snapped.
I got an idea..
put a paint mark on the degree mark at your 8*.. now go move the flywheel w/ a screwdriver a smidge.. NOW GO LOOK at the * marks.. did they move.??
The flwh & the crank are a 1:1 ratio.. linked together.. so if 1 moved.. the other shoulda moved.

I've sprayed more ether into this engine in the past month than I'd like to admit, that was how I got the bucket up in the air. I sprayed a constant stream of ether in the intake, the engine ran, I pulled back on the bucket lever and the hydraulics did their thing...as soon as I stop spraying ether it dies, but it'll run all day on ether. I had no other way get the bucket/arms up and out of my way. Once I get my leaks fixed and fuel system bled for the 14,000th time I'll try Tinkerer's ether procedure.

As for the broken crankshaft, I suppose its a possibility. When I checked the timing I was turning the flywheel with a screwdriver while watching the front crank pulley, I even took the alternator and bracket out of the way to wire wheel the crank pulley clean and get a better view of it and I swear it was turning at a 1:1 ratio, forward and backwards. Before I bolt the alternator back on Ill make some paint marks so I have something to reference. The engine sure felt like it had some compression when I was turning it by hand, once the valves closed I had a hell of a time turning it by hand past the compression stroke, I even had to bump the starter at times.

The fuel feed line from the tank to the fuel filters is pretty short so it should be able to be removed pretty easily and it's completely covered in grease/wet near the tank (could just be fuel from the leaking bowl). I'm going to remove that line from the tractor, clean it, and inspect it. Reading through Vetech's bleed procedure he says I should have a pretty good fuel flow from the secondary fuel filter bleed screw. I do get fuel coming out of there when its open but it doesn't seem like a strong stream. If I pressurize the fuel tank it'll spray out a good 6-8 inches from the filter. And as insane as it sounds I actually had a dream that I pulled leaves out of that fuel line, yes I had an actual dream about this tractor, it haunts me in my sleep...I think I'm starting to go crazy because of this thing.

It is critical on any engine when setting the timing marks that you DO NOT turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction if you go even a half of a degree PAST the marks you need.
There is a lot of gear backlash in the timing gears and you could be off many degrees from where the true timing is supposed to be set if you turn it backwards.
I still think with the problems you are having and the amount of hours on the injection pump that you should send the pump to the pumpguy. It will be the best money you will ever spend on your trackloader.
One other thing, remove that valve that is cobbled into the fuel return line and see if there is something in restricting or blocking fuel flow.

Tinkerer said:

It is critical on any engine when setting the timing marks that you DO NOT turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction if you go even a half of a degree PAST the marks you need.
There is a lot of gear backlash in the timing gears and you could be off many degrees from where the true timing is supposed to be set if you turn it backwards.
I still think with the problems you are having and the amount of hours on the injection pump that you should send the pump to the pumpguy. It will be the best money you will ever spend on your trackloader.
One other thing, remove that valve that is cobbled into the fuel return line and see if there is something in restricting or blocking fuel flow.

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When checking the timing I only went forwards with the engine (clockwise) but when checking the crank pulley movement relevant to the flywheel I went both CW and CCW. And yes if it turns out that my pump took a crap I'd love to send it to thepumpguy if he can take it. I dont know of anyone here in southeast Michigan who can rebuild these pumps and from what I've seen in my thread alone the guy knows his ****. As for the return shutoff valve, I'd like to get rid of it...I'm assuming my grandpa installed it but I'm not sure why, I'm thinking it's because the return line back feeds fuel from the tank when. Its disconnected. I'd ask him but dementia has made sure that he could never answer me.

He prob. installed it because he was getting fuel in the oil.?? The gravity pressure has a tendency to blow past the seals on older units.. & fill the crankcase up..
I'd be happy to take a look at your pump, if it comes to that..

thepumpguysc said:

He prob. installed it because he was getting fuel in the oil.?? The gravity pressure has a tendency to blow past the seals on older units.. & fill the crankcase up..

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That alone is reason enough to get it rebuilt.
Sorry to read about your Grandpa's dementia. My wife has had it about six years and it is a sad thing to see how it slowly changes a person.

Just a FYI> that's why its important to shut off the fuel at the tank when not in use.. for gravity fed units w/ no return connector..{glass ball}

Tinkerer said:

That alone is reason enough to get it rebuilt.
Sorry to read about your Grandpa's dementia. My wife has had it about six years and it is a sad thing to see how it slowly changes a person.

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Sorry to hear about your wife man, it's a horrible disease that I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.

thepumpguysc said:

Just a FYI> that's why its important to shut off the fuel at the tank when not in use.. for gravity fed units w/ no return connector..{glass ball}

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Good to know

@frinenboard, did you give up ??
Remember, no one likes a quitter !! Lol