I knew it was close They use that inside combustion chambers. The head on my Ford tractor is done that way and works fine. I think it would be too much (overkill) work to do that for a simple external water jacket crack that never has more than 20 PSI on it.
![Blair's pictures 367[1].JPG](https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/data/attachments/181/181306-f64e07a2f88dbdc861f5728ccfbb2803.jpg "Blair's pictures 367[1].JPG")
![Blair's pictures 369[1].JPG](https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/data/attachments/181/181307-1b042946946641187d73b803ecf16885.jpg "Blair's pictures 369[1].JPG")
where there's a will there's a way.
I was under a friends house a couple weeks ago fixing a pressure leak.. with a similar procedure... cut a piece of rubber bungee strap then pop a hose clamp around it and done!!!Then there's the " Drill , Tap & patch " system .
Have seen it done on water jackets on the outside of the block .
Drill & tap for studs and drop some rubber gasket material between the block & patch plate .
Ran into something similar on an 8-V-71 block repair . We just had to deal with crankcase oil on that round . Connecting rod decided it needed more room to swing .
LOL !
And back to the race track .
Silicon bronze wire???
I started working at a place one fall and they had a guy check the antfreze in every thing he missed a D8 that they had worked on that summer i dont know what had happen to it but it had new heads and i found out later it had a bent rod. It cracked every wear even the pony motor. We pulled the heads and sent them off i spent alot of my winter mig welding crackes then i heated the weld and rubed a stick of some thing over it that melted and got hard. It worked i presser tested it and we ran it some but they took it out on a job and a rod went throw the block. I found out they had straitend the rod and it did work.
