Case 350 Crawler kicking my butt

Fourtencustoms · May 24, 2019

So the rings get stuck on the piston and refuse to help close the gap or?
The acetone mixture helps to free them from the sides of the pistons so they can float again?

<------------------------watching and learning.

frickenbored · May 24, 2019

Fourtencustoms said:
So the rings get stuck on the piston and refuse to help close the gap or?
The acetone mixture helps to free them from the sides of the pistons so they can float again?

<------------------------watching and learning.

I believe that's the idea, I've heard of people doing this before. I think the acetone mixture is supposed to eat away at any carbon or gunk that might be keeping the rings from moving freely. I've heard of people using the atf/acetone mixture, PB blaster, straight diesel fuel...never actually done it myself...till now.

It's funny 3 weeks ago I pulled a chevy 350 engine from my 1986 K10 because no matter what I did it always had a misfire, among many other things I found that the previous owner had the block bored .020 over but then decided to use standard piston rings...so the rings that weren't broken had a gap of .080+, each cylinder had a leak down of 40%-60%.

2019 seems to be year of the piston ring for me.

Delmer · May 24, 2019

When you do go to start it. Crank it over several seconds with injectors out to clear the cylinders a little. I'd be using a block heater, you can use a hair dryer in the intake also. An 80 degree afternoon should be plenty, but it never hurts to get it a little warmer. Every time you crank it to move the acetone/atf around, and then to clear it, leave the injection pump on and see if you get any more bubbles. I like to leave the injector nut loose a couple turns, it seems to make it easier to see the bubbles vs spray.

frickenbored · May 24, 2019

hopefully the pre-heater still works but if not I'll hit the intake with my heat gun. I'll plug the block heater in too.

thepumpguysc · May 24, 2019

Its good u have a "heat gun".. most folks don't so we always say, use a hair dryer..
Just pull off the air cleaner & point it straight in the intake..
Yes> the "mix" eats the carbon away if they're stuck in the piston grooves.. it works.. seen it w/ my own eyes.
Like I said earlier, "I" did the compr. test on the guys engine & THEN I did it wet.. toldm to TRY the same thing I told u.. about 2 weeks later he sends me a video of it starting & running.. so ya never know..

frickenbored · May 24, 2019

I thought about pouring some Berryman's Chem-Dip Carburetor Cleaner down in the cylinders, I've dunked whole pistons in that stuff and within an hour any trace of carbon on that piston was dissolved.

ianjoub · May 24, 2019

frickenbored said:
I thought about pouring some Berryman's Chem-Dip Carburetor Cleaner down in the cylinders, I've dunked whole pistons in that stuff and within an hour any trace of carbon on that piston was dissolved.

That would work but you had better fill those cylinders with oil after the carb cleaner does its thing or you will be cranking a way too dry motor.

thepumpguysc · May 24, 2019

U were told the right way.. but u go ahead & do it any old way u want to..

frickenbored · May 24, 2019

After looking at my can of berryman's it wouldn't be a good idea to use it...it has a little bit of grit to it. I poured in the first of the atf/acetone...we'll see what happens.

thepumpguysc · May 25, 2019

Just don't get antsy.. give it time to work.. a WEEK MINUMUM.. & add to it every 2-3 days..
U might wanna keep the old readings handy so u can compare the old readings to the re-do..
Just blow all that crap out using the starter & recheck the compression..
I KNOW that guys machine I checked didn't have a comp. tester & just blew his mix out & reinstalled his injectors & fired it up.. MAYBE there was still enough residual oil mix in the cylinders, that it held compression.. enough to ignite.??
I would check the compression afterwards if it were mine.. just to see if I jumped the gun or not..
IF the compr. jumps up 50psi or 100 psi.. I would re-do the mix another round/week or 2..
LIKE I SAID>> it takes 300 psi to start a diesel on its own..{compression ignition}
So THATS the # your shooting for.. MINIMUM..
See ya in a week or 2.. TPG

ianjoub · May 25, 2019

thepumpguysc said:
IF the compr. jumps up 50psi or 100 psi.. I would re-do the mix another round/week or 2..
LIKE I SAID>> it takes 300 psi to start a diesel on its own..{compression ignition}
So THATS the # your shooting for.. MINIMUM..
See ya in a week or 2.. TPG

You are just trying to get rid of him, BRILLIANT!

Just joking

, no wadded panties please.

frickenbored · May 26, 2019

ianjoub said:
You are just trying to get rid of him, BRILLIANT!

Just joking , no wadded panties please.

thepumpguysc · May 26, 2019

Good 1 FB.. Lol

thepumpguysc · May 26, 2019

I thought FOR SURE u were gonna write that u tried to start the BH & it didn't start..
I know its probably killin ya, not to try.. lol..
Its either hide the keys for a week or buy a 700.00 rebuild kit & a bunch of "special tools"..

frickenbored · May 26, 2019

thepumpguysc said:
I thought FOR SURE u were gonna write that u tried to start the BH & it didn't start..
I know its probably killin ya, not to try.. lol..
Its either hide the keys for a week or buy a 700.00 rebuild kit & a bunch of "special tools"..

Actually I'm kind of relieved to have some time away from the ol case, I started working on it because I thought it was a simple case of bleeding the fuel system, I remember thinking "I'll have this running in a couple of hours!" Then it turned into a whole thing that interrupted another engine build I'm in the middle of and also a M16A1 clone build that I'm in the middle of. So now that the Case is..."de-carboning" I've been able to get back to those other things.

frickenbored · Jun 8, 2019

Well it looks like it's time to admit defeat. Today I re-did the compression test, all cylinders now have 300-310psi compression dry. I installed the new injectors and bled the fuel system. Still nothing. I have fuel, I have compression and yet it refuses to start. Maybe the timing gears stripped and skipped a few teeth...I dont know but at this point I think im done fooling around with it.

Tinkerer · Jun 10, 2019

This is just a suggestion.
Put #1 cylinder TDC and check the injection pump timing. 8 degrees BTDC.
If it is OK remove the pump and send it South Carolina for a rebuild.
It is the only thing left that can be the problem.

Vetech63 · Jun 10, 2019

If it is in time and getting fuel and air then it should run. I'm concerned about the cranking speed of the engine. It has to crank at a quick pace to create the compression and heat needed to fire the fuel off.

DMiller · Jun 10, 2019

If has been Quite awhile since ran last you are probably fighting loss of compression due to cylinder dry down. A little sniff of ether on a rapid roll while cranking and it should bust off. Timing gear strips in these and it would likely Not be cranking.

Does this have a Stanadyne Injection pump on it, could have broken the flex coupler where the pump is not delivering.

Tinkerer · Jun 10, 2019

I read this thread twice since Saturday. It seems like everything possible has been covered.
The fact that he can get it to run on WD40 leads me to think there is an issue with the IP.
I would maybe install another set of fuel filters just in case there is something weird going on with one of them.
And I would dismantle the glass bowl filter and make sure there isn't air intrusion there.

Case 350 Crawler kicking my butt

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member