Getting as level of surface as possible?

The only thing I would add to any of these would be a roller behind them. That would greatly improve your outcome.

I think it wetting down so it isn't just loose silt would help too.

I would be skittish of working it wet, tends to ball up on graders hangs on mold board other issues. Dry seems to roll easier to get level set.

I should clarify that watering after scraping and levelling would let it settle so you could see if it's still low. Filling the low spots with dry loose dirt may not be level after it settles.

Depends on the material. Some stuff cuts better damp. There's a fine line between too wet and just right. An early morning dew kinda wet. I like to take a mouthful before I start so I can see how it will roll off the blade

I know for grooming some dampness is good. Just enough moisture it isn't a dust bowl.

I would till the silt in or scrape it off if it's a lot. Grading it will likely leave the same hole after wear(lighter and more dusty crap than normal).

I would wager it's different than the rest of the track, so tilling it in with the subsurface would make a better surface in the long run.

Just the top surface gets real dry and scraping it could turn it into fine powder. That's why I think some moisture would be good and maybe packing it some would blend it all back together.

Welder Dave said:

I should clarify that watering after scraping and levelling would let it settle so you could see if it's still low. Filling the low spots with dry loose dirt may not be level after it settles.

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I misjudged and that is correct to water down after spreading to get a better final level.

If I were closer I could grade it for you.

We achieved a 1/2" tolerance over 50,000 SF on this job with only two operators in two days. The only limitation was we couldn't get rock fast enough.. 1500 Tons of DGB total.

Point being if you have someone near you with a similar setup it may be money well spent to hire them to grade your track. The time savings alone compared to blue topping is no comparison.

The guy helping me knows a guy with a skid steer and laser but I'm not sure what type of laser or attachment. My new neighbor was saying some lasers are only within 3-4 inches. Most of the track is probably close to 1/2" tolerance. There's just one larger area and couple small ones that hold too much water.

Until CM shows up you could let the MX riders play around .

They don't care what grade or condition the tracks in .

Very nice setup CM1995! A dual laser blade is very hard to beat for getting things perfectly flat.
My understanding though is that this is a track? Laser may not work well for this site unless the track is all on one plane.
What works best in our area for tracks, driveways, trails, etc is to scarify everything about 6" deep then regrade then roll. Otherwise you'll get the same potholes at the same spots year after year.
In my opinion you'll be happiest with a slight crown or bank it on the turns. We grade flat pads to a tolerance of +/- 1/4" all the time and there are wide shallow puddles all over them after a rain. It wouldn't take much of a slope. Maybe around 1/4" to 1/2" in ten feet to take care of your puddles.
Good luck! I'm sure you'll get the advice you need here!

I was thinking of trying the land plane without working anything up after the winter but being it will be easy to work up the top 3-4" maybe working it up and just pulling harrows or a wide beam around would level it off. Also have a landscape (York rake) rake with gauge wheels that may do it. I'm going to try to put a slight slope on it. The track is higher than the surrounding area and most rain does run off fairly quickly. The water seems to make it's own path to drain.

Sounds like a workable plan to me. Use the equipment you have access to. This industry achieved excellent grading for many years before the goodies arrived. It can still be done the old fashioned way.

if you work it up nice and loose, you're not going to see the small differences, nor will the laser or the long land plane. I can't believe the soil isn't loose enough to scrape this time of year? Scrape it first, then if you feel it won't compact evenly, till it up and grade again, roll, etc. until you're satisfied.

Went out today and played with landplane. I was surprised, the higher areas were packed and only had minimal loose material on top. The lower areas that held water were still a little moist and chewed up easier. I did laps around the track to do the initial levelling and smooth off small bumps and hoof prints from wildlife. Then I spent a bunch of time on the main low area going in figure 8's and diagonally across it which definitely helped. Then I went around the track diagonally zig zagging from side to side. I didn't have a laser level to see where the highest parts were but I think just spending more time and going in all directions levels a little more each time. Now that it's really close, I'm wondering if working it up and using the landscape rake with gauge wheels could get it even more level. I could also just pull some harrows around, a drag bar or a bunch of old tires with a long chain. I've heard semi tires work good for levelling but I don't have any that big. I have some 16" truck tires though. It's a big area. My landplane is 7' wide and I was working on it for over 3 hours. I think it's going to rain this week so I'll see what it's like when I go back out.

Welder Dave said:

...higher areas were packed and only had minimal loose material on top. The lower areas that held water were still a little moist and chewed up easier

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I'd think that means you have to work up the whole thing, and then go at it. I don't see a short "wheel base" getting it as flat as you seem to want. Either need a long "wheelbase", or laser, or mark it and cut by sight.

That's why I think a drag or tires pulled with a long chain might work good if everything was worked up so it was all the same constancy. Most people say to get a surface level you have to always have material on the blade so there's always something to fill in the low spots. One of the guys that tried the track last year said it was the smoothest track he's ever road and he's raced all over the place including in the US. I think a short wheelbase could work if it was real close to begin with. My neighbor was away but has a real fancy laser level so I'm going to see if he could shoot the track. It's such a big area your eyes play tricks on you trying to see the high spots and low spots.

Too bad you couldn't find an old Puckett grader. They sold ours to the local four-wheeler club for $8000.00. New engine, one new hydraulic pump, it had 4 good tires on it.