rear hub seal and inner bearing stayed on axle when I removed hub.WTH.

coastlogger · Apr 6, 2019

Like title says they stayed put and man were they stuck there. Used a puller to get them off and it grunted.Its a rockwell axle on a s/a International dump from 1988. 11r22.5 tires not sure axle model. I blv they all work the same? Anyhow Ive got a new seal coming and plan to emery the axle hope the bearing slides on there. That is what its supposed to do right?Im not any expert here but other hubs ive removed the seal and inner bearing generally come off with the hub it seems to me.Any advice appreciated.

kshansen · Apr 6, 2019

By any chance are there numbers on the seal that came off? Or maybe post a picture of the seal and the axle. Little things one might see in a picture can answer lots of questions some times.

JPV · Apr 6, 2019

You have it right, the bearing should slip on and off. Sometimes they get stuck but if the bearing is ok clean up the surfaces and run it. I guess it could be possible it is the wrong bearing, you could try to call the dealer and get the bearing number that it is supposed to have to double check.

DMiller · Apr 6, 2019

Seen that a lot over the years on average long durations between services. Seems the bearing gets a little cooked on oil under the race and glues down.

Wes J · Apr 6, 2019

Lots of the those Internationals used Spicer axles.

It may have a two piece seal, which usually just press in by hand. It's not too difficult for them to pop out.

walkerv · Apr 6, 2019

coastlogger said:
Like title says they stayed put and man were they stuck there. Used a puller to get them off and it grunted.Its a rockwell axle on a s/a International dump from 1988. 11r22.5 tires not sure axle model. I blv they all work the same? Anyhow Ive got a new seal coming and plan to emery the axle hope the bearing slides on there. That is what its supposed to do right?Im not any expert here but other hubs ive removed the seal and inner bearing generally come off with the hub it seems to me.Any advice appreciated.

I very recently had a mack like that , look in the spindle tube for damage like an axle shaft exploded in there ,that is what happened to the one i was working on and it swelled the spindle a bit i spent half a day getting the bearing to fit like it should if that is not the problem probably just cooked oil build up as previously mentioned.

funwithfuel · Apr 7, 2019

I agree with what has been posted, only thing I would add is that sometimes, if a seal and bearing puke out, guys will put on a stemco seal. You basically knock the seal and wear sleeve onto the spindle, then assemble the hub end on top of that.

DMiller · Apr 7, 2019

Can stake the hub bore this time, clean it really well and add bearing retainer compound(a Loctite supplier will have). It comes back off loose the next time replace.

OOPS, wrong Post!!!

56wrench · Apr 7, 2019

correct me if I'm wrong but I have seen basically 2 types of seals. one type like the stemco grit guards are a two piece seal-a steel ring that is pressed onto the housing or spindle with the seal that is pressed into the hub before installation. the second type is a one-piece unitized seal assembly that spins inside itself(for lack of a better description). it is pressed into the hub first and during installation it is forced onto the housing (or spindle) . this type does not spin on the housing but sometimes sealer is used on the housing contact surface to prevent leaks. quite often the seal pulls out of the hub and is stuck on the housing after removal of the hub. I hope this isn't too confusing

DMiller · Apr 7, 2019

Chicago Rawhide were drive in the hub one time shot onto the spindle yet would usually remain in hub bore, some Stemco were rubber edged where were drive on spindle or set in hub and draw hub/bearings into place on spindle, they would usually stay on spindle, National also a hub drive in and stayed in hub. Know there are others these days, not had much dealings with them all.

coastlogger · Apr 7, 2019

Thanks for all those replies. Walkerv a I think you might have nailed it. When I bought the truck it had a broken axle on that side. I repaired it by knocking out the old axle,never took the hub off till now. I blv that the spindle got swelled. I miced it at 4.252 inches im supposing it should be 4.25 Guess Ill get busy with a grinder and try and get it down a uniform 2 thou.

coastlogger · Apr 7, 2019

Pic of spindle. On further investigation it is 7 thou oversize in one spot (top) of outer end of the shoulder that bearing slides onto. Its about right where bearing actually resides.no wonder it came off hard! Will try die grinding otherwise go shopping for a spindle....

walkerv · Apr 7, 2019

coastlogger said:
Thanks for all those replies. Walkerv a I think you might have nailed it. When I bought the truck it had a broken axle on that side. I repaired it by knocking out the old axle,never took the hub off till now. I blv that the spindle got swelled. I miced it at 4.252 inches im supposing it should be 4.25 Guess Ill get busy with a grinder and try and get it down a uniform 2 thou.

I tapped my new bearing on lightly and looked for the witness marks after tapping it back off mine was so bad i used a 3 inch flap wheel on a cordless drill soaked in mineral spirits to work on the high spots ocasionally going all the way around and such till i could get it all the way on, then some hand work with fine emery cloth till bearing would slide on and off by hand with oil on the spindle , your results may vary but that is the way i fix them up . I have had a few that needed the spindle replaced but yours sounds fixxable i had to torch my bearing off it was pretty bad . Good luck

walkerv · Apr 7, 2019

coastlogger said:
Pic of spindle. On further investigation it is 7 thou oversize in one spot (top) of outer end of the shoulder that bearing slides onto. Its about right where bearing actually resides.no wonder it came off hard! Will try die grinding otherwise go shopping for a spindle....

This what i would use but not on a die grinder i use mine on a drill so as not to take off to much material to fast so as not to ruin stuff axle surgeon is costly,and only work on tthe obvious high spots at first

DMiller · Apr 7, 2019

Driving a Wide b*****d file around the spindle as we did in the old days then finishing with 220gr emery paper usually did the trick.

kshansen · Apr 7, 2019

DMiller said:
Driving a Wide b*****d file around the spindle as we did in the old days then finishing with 220gr emery paper usually did the trick.

I like the file as you should be able to feel the high spots easy and just concentrate on them.

walkerv · Apr 7, 2019

DMiller said:
Driving a Wide b*****d file around the spindle as we did in the old days then finishing with 220gr emery paper usually did the trick.

That would probably be faster at first my files are in bad shape from bouncing and rusting in the service truck

kshansen · Apr 7, 2019

walkerv said:
That would probably be faster at first my files are in bad shape from bouncing and rusting in the service truck

For the price of this repair job I'm sure you can justify one or two good files. And when done wrap them separate in oil soaked paper and store in a dry location and they will be ready for the next job!

Truck Shop · Apr 7, 2019

Standard drive axle seal CR 47697 the Stemco Grit Guard 392-9131

coastlogger · Apr 7, 2019

Never thought of a file. Guess I thought it'd be too hard stuff.duh.ill try it and the flapper. Thanks.

rear hub seal and inner bearing stayed on axle when I removed hub.WTH.

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