Scat Trak ?

That must have been a "bad B" model, they fixed the lag time, they used bigger diameter hoses in the pilots soon after the complaints started, the new B2 series are really nice, or else I wouldn't have bought one.

bobcat ron said:

That must have been a "bad B" model, they fixed the lag time, they used bigger diameter hoses in the pilots soon after the complaints started, the new B2 series are really nice, or else I wouldn't have bought one.

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Are you saying that it is ok for Cat to fix a design flaw & be expunged from their mistake? Yet if ANY other brand happens to have a design flaw that is subsiquently re-engineered, they are eternaly doomed to being junk by the likes of yourself?

I understand that you are proud of your overpriced, lemon colored, machine but why all of the ridiculous bashing of anything that isn't a 247B2?

And.....I stand to be corrected, enlightened, and educated.

Twisted

Twisted said:

Are you saying that it is ok for Cat to fix a design flaw & be expunged from their mistake? Yet if ANY other brand happens to have a design flaw that is subsiquently re-engineered, they are eternaly doomed to being junk by the likes of yourself?

I understand that you are proud of your overpriced, lemon colored, machine but why all of the ridiculous bashing of anything that isn't a 247B2?

And.....I stand to be corrected, enlightened, and educated.

Twisted

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I don't bash Takeuchi's, they were second on the list of future machines, I don't even bash Thomas skids, I know for a fact that they share almost the same hydraulic system as Cat and both names are built very similar in strength and looks, I only bash the machines I have had a bad time with or horrible experiences in owning and operating or false and or misleading advertising to their product, Deere is another classic example of my bashing, they continually claim the have the best balance and lift power, etc, etc, but there is and was alot that never made the Deere a high contender on my list, not enough ground clearance, low angle of departure, no head room in the cab, can't see the tracks/tires and no pilot controls (back then) and all the time I had to run one for a day, I was better off in a Bobcat, another name I bash.

Cat sure didn't waste as much time as Bobcat in fixing their flaws, they fixed them in 2 years or less or even made it an upgrade to existing models.
As far as my machine being overpriced, I say you are sadly mistaken, even after all taxes I am only paying a mere $740 a month for it, hardly anything compared to the highly over priced T190 I had previously, of which I got bent over due to all it's flaws in the hydraulic system.

Deere, Bobcat, PoopTrack/Volvo, Mustang, all names I have had bad luck with, Case, New Holland, ASV, Cat, Takeuchi, are the names I can trust.

I'm looking for a pair of rims for s Scat Track 1350.Can anyone point me in the right direction ?

Are the rims brand specific? I think you can use other brands. Look at Ironplanet.com

I appreciate the help.I'll give them a try.Thanks,Denny

Just an update. I said to heck with it and went and bought another Hydra-Mac. A 1300 with a Kubota diesel. Seems to be a real good machine. My only complaint is that it is set up with Bobcat-style foot controls. Looks like it was originally set-up with Case controls, so it might be easy to switch back.

ScaTrak 1300HD - Great machine but overheats after long use. Ideas?

I have had a 1300HD for several years. It has never been a daily runner but is has served me very well. Operating expense is very cheap. Some have mentioned visibility as a problem but it is much better than my Bobcat 753. As long as the bucket is good and tight I feel you can meet any grade tolerance. The 47hp Kubota V1902 is not the easiest to start in cold weather but it has to be really cold (single digits) before needing to use starting fluid. My research attributes this to the indirect injection and glow plugs used. As far as cracks or welds the only problem I have had is the left boom arm directly below the remote hookups. The weld has cracked repeatedly but has never gotten into the metal. I am going to put a thick piece of plate with a good fillet and radius and see if that fixes the problem.
These are very simple machines. The plug in wiring harness that goes from the engine compartment to the cab had worked loose a few times but it was an easy fix with a couple of strong cable ties.
This machine has around 6000 hours and the engine supposedly has around 2500 hrs. Last summer after working it for approx. one hour or more really hard the temperature would rise to around 205-210. I have checked everything I know to check and cannot figure it out. I even replace the radiator with a larger one I had. What is most strange is all you have to do is open the engine door and the temp drops back down to 195 very quickly.

Can anyone out there help?

Did you check for compression in the radiator?

heads crack

I have come across alot of those that crack the heads and leak compression in and raise the temps without leaking coolant out of the overflow

Thanks for the advise. I also have a Bobcat 743 and 753. The 743 has the same engine with fewer hours and has serviced me well. In regards to the Scat Trak, should I do a simple pressure test on the cooling system? I am not seeing bubbles in the radiator. It has been used really hard since the original post. Since then it has a noticable miss and smoke when it first starts up so something else is going on. The machines you mention with the cracked heads, were the heads repairable? Do you know where I may fine a used head if I find this is the problem? Sorry it took me so long to reply.

overheating

dvcochran said:

I have had a 1300HD for several years. It has never been a daily runner but is has served me very well. Operating expense is very cheap. Some have mentioned visibility as a problem but it is much better than my Bobcat 753. As long as the bucket is good and tight I feel you can meet any grade tolerance. The 47hp Kubota V1902 is not the easiest to start in cold weather but it has to be really cold (single digits) before needing to use starting fluid. My research attributes this to the indirect injection and glow plugs used. As far as cracks or welds the only problem I have had is the left boom arm directly below the remote hookups. The weld has cracked repeatedly but has never gotten into the metal. I am going to put a thick piece of plate with a good fillet and radius and see if that fixes the problem.
These are very simple machines. The plug in wiring harness that goes from the engine compartment to the cab had worked loose a few times but it was an easy fix with a couple of strong cable ties.
This machine has around 6000 hours and the engine supposedly has around 2500 hrs. Last summer after working it for approx. one hour or more really hard the temperature would rise to around 205-210. I have checked everything I know to check and cannot figure it out. I even replace the radiator with a larger one I had. What is most strange is all you have to do is open the engine door and the temp drops back down to 195 very quickly.

Can anyone out there help?

Click to expand...

I can tell you exactly what your problem is, its a loose belt to water pump trust me!!!!!!

I had s similar problem last year. I pulled the radiator which was mildly damaged from poor mounting and repeated bouncing. The radiator repair man showed how he could add about 20% more cooling in the same area. I put the new radiator on and everything seemed better and I could tell right away the machine was running cooler. Later in the year when it was really hot I was working the machine hard and, while it never got past 200, it did get hotter than it had been. A coworker was standing behind the machine and commented that it didn't seem like much air was moving across the radiator. I looked at the fan and shroud. The fan was slightly damaged around the circumference and the existing shroud had 4 flanges or tabs apparently to hold more shroud. In its original state the fan did not quite come up to the shroud. I got a little creative with some sheet metal and extended the shroud by about 3" and replaced the fan with a stock unit. I cannot overstate how much more air moves across the radiator. I feel the shroud/fan was the primary problem but the old radiator was coming apart so it needed addressing anyway. Yes make sure your belt is tight but more importantly check that the shroud is past the fan to maximize air flow.

Sent from David Cochran's iPhone

Yes, a mispositioned fan shroud can definitely reduce cooling. It should fit tight to the radiator. Use foam rubber where it connects to the radiator if there are gaps. Sometimes a water pump that was a *good deal* isn't the right one and has an incorrect height which may pull the fan away from the radiator too far or the fan protrudes past the shroud. Then it will suck air around the shroud instead of through the radiator. Ensure there are no holes in the shroud.

Here's another one to keep an eye out for: I've seen it twice in my days (one car, one truck) where a hard-to-resolve overheating problem turned out to be a loose impeller on a water pump. This is not common, and difficult to detect, but worth checking when overheating problems cannot be resolved by simple means. What *can* happen is the impeller may grip sufficiently to the shaft when the engine is cold but becomes loose as the engine (coolant) warms up and doesn't circulate enough coolant. We had one vehicle that we tried everything with to prevent overheating and finally pulled off the water pump when it was hot and the impeller would just spin, obviously it wasn't pumping any water. 5 minutes later it was fairly snug to the shaft again.

Another difficult to detect overheating problem is a weak lower radiator hose that collapses itself and reduces water flow under high engine RPM's. Longer hoses should have a spring inside of it. Oh yeah, I agree with others, check for belt slippage. Usually you can detect this if you see sharp grooves on the tops of the alternator or fan pulleys. Sometimes, the fan turns great and cools properly at low RPM, but can slip at higher RPM reducing waterflow or heat transfer at the radiator. There are other things too, but these are some pesky ones to find.