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Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Hello all, im new here but ive been lurking the forum for quite some time. As a little background on my mechanical knowledge, i come from the world of dirtbikes and street bikes with many small gas engine rebuilds under my belt... I bought a 1st generation 580ck 1966-1971 ? not sure the exact year as the # plate is gone from the steering column. I bought it cheap with some small known issues like hyd. leaks etc... ive discovered that im getting fuel in my crankcase so im going to pull the injection pump and inspect it and make a determination if it should be fully rebuilt at a shop of if im just going to re-seal it and throw it back on, and yes ive read a bunch of posts by pumpguy and i think ive got a good grasp on what the procedures are for servicing the pump, i also have a roosamaster manual for the pump. Waiting on seal kit for pump, i decided that id pull the valve cover and discovered both pushrods for cyl #2 were bent/broken, maybe a stuck valve ? Still need see if i can get the valves moving up and down because the rain drove me inside... so now im thinking that's another possible source of the fuel in the oil ? Ive ordered 2 new pushrods and will set valve lash after install. Ive also ordered 4 new fuel injectors to eliminate that as a problem... i really need a service manual because i can't find one that's not almost $1,000,000.00 lol. Anyone with some more tips tricks or insight please feel free to chime in. Love this forum and have already learned a TON ! By the way this is my first diesel but im very familiar with how they work.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,560
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Main reason for fuel in oil is not internal pump seals but driving shaft seals, are two opposite facing umbrella seals on the driving shaft to keep oil and fuel where they need to be. Having a pump shop go thru the mechanism while off is far better than opening up this can of worms you have little knowledge of as you can set yourself up for a successful grenade of your tractor engine. Nozzles themselves will not put excess fuel in the oil unless the engine is just drowning in fuel.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
I'll disagree, if the cylinder is dead because of a stuck valve and no compression, then the unburned diesel will get into the oil, and may be enough over time to cause your contamination. Not the nozzle, but the dead cylinder will do that. Fix the easy stuff before you mess with the pump, keep an eye on the oil level and smell, you'll be fine running it until you get it sorted out. Change the oil if it's obviously too thin.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,525
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
The drive shaft seals rarely ever "go bad".. they will get hard & cause trouble... but.. what "usually" happens is>
They get dirt/contaminants behind them & cut the brass pilot tube{gouges}.. {either dirty engine oil or dirty fuel} which means the pilot tube MUST be changed..
Good luck w/ your o/h.. & if u run into trouble, just yell..
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Thanks for the nice welcome guys ! I pulled my dash today because the clutch pressure gauge was the only one working and i wanted to clean the connections for all the other gauges and see if i could get them all working... BAM i snapped the end off the line that goes to the clutch pressure gauge (hand hits forehead) so i will get some new line and bend and flare it myself... but i have a rats nest of wires behind there... some wires dont even hook up to anything lol... gonna hafta buy that service manual i guess because ill need the wiring diagram to figure out this mess
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,525
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Incase u didn't see it, theres a "search box" in the upper right hand..
A LOT of 580 rebuilds have gone on in the few years I've been here.. AND some dash's.. theres probably some pictures & good info if u can find the threads..
Have u heard/read about Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. he has the know-how & the parts for just about any Case u can name..
Don't hesitate to call or email him but don't bug him.. like the rest of us, we're all busy..
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Thanks pumpguy. I have heard of Dale and tractor stuff, im in the process of cleaning and testing my gauges so if one turns out bad I'll definitely reach out to Dale... waiting on parts for everything else ive found broken so why not go searching for more lol !
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Tinkerer i ordered that service manual that you posted. Thank you...
Anyone have more input on why im getting fuel in the crankcase ? Or am i pretty much covering all the bases ? Hope to have the dash back in tomorrow and confirm stuck valves/no stuck valves
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,525
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
99% sure its the front seals in the pump..pilot tube is gouged..
The PT part# is 16320 but ya gotta epoxy it in..{2 part}
& ya gotta heat the old one before u press it out.. cuz its "glued" in..
Its easy w/ the service tools.. I have a pressing tool & a tool to set the height..
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Okay, thanks pumpguy... i think right now im going to fix the pushrods, adjust valves and put it back together. Keep checking the oil level and if it comes up again the last thing to be done would be pump drive shaft seals... if i were to send my pump to you 'pumpguy' what kind of price for an overhaul ? The machine actually seemed like it ran pretty well before i went hunting for the gremlin that keeps dumping deisel in my engine oil... Im way up in Maine
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
I have confirmed that the valves on cylinder #2 are free and not sticking at all so im really curious as to why those 2 pushrods got bent, could they have just popped out loose because of loose/bad valve adjustment ? I also bench tested all of my gauges, and they all work. Wired them to their sending units and the fuel gauge seems to work, i wont know if the water temp gauge works until i get new pushrods and injectors in the engine and test fire the old girl.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,560
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Most common cause of bent push rods, over speeding engine, valves don't go closed fast enough and the rods get sideways. Saw plenty of Big Block GM and FORDs do that on dirt tracks, not that hard to do on diesels either.
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Ohh yea, i definitely get that, (my experience is mostly with super/street bikes, the 4 cylinder, high revving, zing-zingy type)... thats something that ive never done with this engine while ive owned it, and besides the fuel getting in the crankcase ive always thought the engine ran decent... could it have been running on 3 cylinders the entire time ive owned it ?!? I can usually hear an engine miss-fire from a mile away but this thing is really loud when its running... i have to wear ear plugs when i operate it. Im alsmost thinking the guts have rotted out of the muffler ??
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Update. New pushrods were installed and valves were adjusted. Fresh engine oil, and the ol' girl fired right up, sounded smoother, and after 10hrs of runtime over this weekend, it has not had any fuel contamination in the crankcase... for now im going to keep running the machine as i need it to stump/clear about 2 acres of land this spring/summer... im also going to build a nice size garage/shop for this machine to live in, i figure I'll hire out the snowplowing for next winter and do some major service on the machine... engine rebuild etc etc... all the restoration threads have me motivated !
 

chas357

Active Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
30
Location
dushore pa
Okay, thanks pumpguy... i think right now im going to fix the pushrods, adjust valves and put it back together. Keep checking the oil level and if it comes up again the last thing to be done would be pump drive shaft seals... if i were to send my pump to you 'pumpguy' what kind of price for an overhaul ? The machine actually seemed like it ran pretty well before i went hunting for the gremlin that keeps dumping deisel in my engine oil... Im way up in Maine
Hi old580 just some good old fashion advice pull the pump send it to the pump guy get it back nice and new looking stuff it in and be happy life is good
 

Old580

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Maine
Update. After 30 hours or so i still have no fuel in my engine oil... bent pushrods were definitely the cause of my problem. I happened to get the chance to talk to an old case mechamic and i explained what happened... he said "yup, starting it with ether and she back-fired through that cylinder". Ive thrown my can of starting fluid out and i will be getting a new engine block heater...
 
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