Top of head has hose back to fill tank to bleed air.
Well those pistons are partially broken from coolant, you notice it worked over the shallow side. Those pistons fractured and the pieces beat the crap out of the top.
When pistons burn its normally pin point near the center, those have sharp edges where they broke. Coolant doesn't compress worth a sh!t.
The burn through looked like a plasma torch had blown through it and was right where a spray jet was shooting. The piston is structurally intact and underside is shiny new. The spray pattern is uniform on all pistons and the machining rings in the fire bowl of #4 are perfect.
Again, this engine had LESS than an hour run time since startup. I coppercoated the gasket and used all new torque to yield bolts (60 ft/lbs, then 90 90 90 degrees) on a cabinet cleaned block.
As we had to grind the crank and check block for funny bearing wear, the pump did come off but not the adjustable drive hub and the gear is keyed to the shaft. I went by a detailed video on this engine for using the timing pin behind drive gear with crank and cam aligned for #1. One thing dawned on me tonight is the cam gear had spalling on the teeth and when replaced, I was told to use a pen marked tooth or valley on the new gear as it had 2 timing marks on it instead of the one on old (I'll have to refresh details with owner in morning). My dealings have mostly been with Roosa's, CAV's and Model 100 Bosch's which a FEW degrees off they either won't start of run like sh!t. This animal may have some wiggle room on static timing that bit me. I wonder now could Trinity have screwed up on the new gear marks??
Sleeves have some shallow vertical line scuffing.
Injectors were removed before head came off as they are in the way of a line of head bolts.
I couldn't get a good pic to upload but one valve in #3 hole(will have to verify I or E) was heat blued around half of it.
and when I went into it, the front Jake was on the rear... "FRONT" in big cast letters
