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Loader Pins

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
Kentucky
But a tractor last month and been trying to get it ready. When Kubota says grease pins every 10 hrs, they mean it. They don't chrome plate the pins so its reg steel to steel. Not sure if loader was ever greased, but there is orange paint on the zerk's.

In any case, I have taken a torch to the pin and rod end, and its still not budging. It was glowing red where ever the torch was, and I'm starting to worry about the seal end on the rod. I'm hitting it with a 10 pound sledge back and forth, but next to no movement.

Thinking about removing the cylinder and mount so it can be laid on the ground. Looking for ideas of how the pin might be removed.
Attached loader arm.jpg Photo1531.jpg Photo1532.jpg
 

Bls repair

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
1,612
Location
S E Pa
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Equipment operator,mechanic
Does the pin move when angle of the rod changes or does it stay in the same spot in the mounting bracket?
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
Kentucky
Does the pin move when angle of the rod changes or does it stay in the same spot in the mounting bracket?

Its seized to the rod end of the cylinder, so much so that it snapped the keeper off the pin. In the second pic there is just a piece of the keeper welded to the end. If the loader is used it is pivoting on the outside edges of the pin
 

Bls repair

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Jan 21, 2017
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Test drill the pin to see if hard or mild steel.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
Kentucky
Time for a 20# sledge.

Probably, sure looking like I need to remove the cylinder and bracket, then I can wack it easier. The backhoe is right next to it so I can use it to support to get it off. Maybe do that tomorrow
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
Kentucky
OK I'll try and if I can, what does this say so far as removal, and if I cannot, what is the change?
 

Bls repair

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
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S E Pa
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Equipment operator,mechanic
Get some good all threaded rod, taper one so you can can weld it to protruding end of pin .cut off “keeper” and make flat so you can weld rod to pin . Get some thick wall pipe a little bigger then pin in diameter,cut pipe a little longer then pin . Put 2 flat washers rod size ,put nut on rod and tighten
Use biggest rod you can and still get a good weld
Tighten,heat,beat repeat hang wet towel on threaded to slow down rod if weld breaks

Don’t go to crazy when you tighten it
 

mikebramel

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
1,612
Location
milwaukee
Yeah seems these Kubotas aren't made for more than residential use spreading mulch. If you're a straight shooter thats good, I'd try the mag drill.
 

Jonas302

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,197
Location
mn
I dont hesitate to burn one like that out with the broco torch https://www.broco-rankin.com/industrial/ not to many have one of those handy though Its a little deep for a cutting torch you could slice the pin with a 7 inch grinder and thin cutoff wheel then you would have the rod free to burn out the pin with a torch or pull the cylinder to press out or bring to a machine shop the little bit of space lost to the cutoff wheel can be made up with a washer shim when it goes back together The other thing that would do is get rid of the mushroomed part of the pin the soft pins expand so easy and they just lock up harder the more you hit it
 

DARO

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
178
Location
Duluth MN USA
Occupation
Mechanic
I have in the past. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole then applied heat to the inside till it glowed. Then cool with shop air. Often it will come out with out much effort.


This is on all kabota brand stuff. The pins they use are a fairly soft.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
Kentucky
I'm leaning toward doing the sawzal, using a cut off wheel would need to add a spaced

Do agree, now that I know its mild steel, hitting it is probably making things worst
 
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