Is anyone running Sharq P300 cutting edges?

Any thoughts or experience with Sharq P300 cutting edges?

I plow all winter in steep Rocky Mountain logging roads and wonder if anyone knows how they hold up?

https://www.sharqedges.com/products/for-snow-and-ice/sharq-p300

I’ve watched some video clips with good reviews but little was said about hitting donikers buried above grade in the road surface.
Rep said you can’t grade in float either... it cuts too deep. Some operators state they won’t go back to a conventional flat cutting edges after switching over to these. They say less down pressure is needed resulting in the operator running lower RPM’s and a taller gear. This results in up to 20-40% less fuel consumption.

Thx for your comments.

I have been to a demo on these type of blades, they have a unique quick blade changing system using wedges, if these are what you are talking about, those that have used them like them but they lay flat on your mouldboard so you run the bottom ahead all the way to get cutting angle, they are made of a higher strength steel than the Cat straight blade cutting edges, but have seen these blades flex and pieces break out with to much down pressure, the demo I was to was done on a road that had a foot of gravel so it made them look good, but roads with rocks and ledge mixed in I would think that would be the better testing grounds for these blades, not sure how these blades would work out ditching in my area where straight blades break and bend, anyway I have never personally tried them other than the demo and where some of my buddies have tried them.

Thx 20/80. I grade mostly dirt logging roads. My concern is that where the P300’s touch each other seems to be a week point if struck by a rock at that spot because it is not a contiguous blade. Thus it makes this spot a potential for damage. The concept is intriguing but I saw some bad reviews on a FB page but they didn’t say much about why they didn’t like them.

I have run them. Didnt like them at all. A nice gravel road with no rocks they would be ok. Hit a rock and they bend at point of contact. They wear out quickly as well. Didnt seem to be much to them. Been about 4 years ago since I had them. Easy to change tho. On the wedge system.

Thx for your comments. You helped answer some of my questions. I suspected they might bend when hitting big rocks that were above grade.

hey leighva
I'm running them rite now in northern alberta on logging roads if your using the p300 they will break or bend if you hit a rock or a very frozen ridge left from cat that built the road.
trick is to run them higher on the mounting board then recommended gives less distance for them to bend or break

i personally would recommend going to the hd series of blade had no problems with them bending or breaking at all they are a lot thicker than the p300's

the heavy ones are called sharq p300 hd

there is also the sharq viking and the new flat carbide inserted blades

Thx Dallou,
Your comments are insightful. Do you notice any of the other claims that are made re: reduced fuel consumption, running with less down pressure, lower engine rpm’s and providing a better road surface for traction?

Hey
No I didn't notice any difference in fuel consumption because if you are running with a full mold board you will be using same power as you would with any other type of edge

As far as down pressure maybe a little less but depends on the type of work you are doing.
I don't see the benefits of using the thin edges because the do wear out faster and are not strong enough to be used on logging roads with rocks as they do break and bend
I like the hd blades for the simple fact that you always keep a straight edge
Because it only takes 10 to 15 mins to move the the edges to keep them straight. So you do save that way. And you are still able to keep a scarifier surface for better traction.

Dallou,
Thx again for taking the time to answer my questions. So from what your saying the HD’s are working well for you and you like them?
Have you ever run a regular curved Serrated cutting edge? Does the HD cut the floor out better? I’m guessing that you prefer the Sharq HD over them because that is what you are running now. I can get Serrated edges for about $238 for a 7’ x 8” cutting edge compared to the set up cost of a 14’ Sharq p300 at about $1500.

I see the real difference comparing the two would be that you can keep a real straight cutting edge and the HD allows fines to pass through the HD for better traction.

Incidentally I talked to my Cat salesman yesterday and he saw a County rd that was cut with what appeared to be Sharq Edges and they cut out 10” of hard packed ice/snow in one pass down to the base rock. He said it was an impressive cut. I heard that this County was using them this year for the first time.

Yes I have tried and used serrated edges they work fine to.
But can't change them out and keep them straight like you can with the share edges
Yes they are a bit pricey but I like them
But I know for sure I get 4 times the life out after a set for sure

Don’t have any experience with the Sharq P300 edges but thought this info might interest you.
I plow snow on mountain logging roads in BC. We were running serrated 1”x 10”x 8’ edges, and found I just couldn’t cut into ice good enough. Also they left behind too much snow that goes through them. We switched to the replaceable rotating carbide tips made by Kennametal. This is a mountain road that’s just made from the material that’s there, no crushed gravel, so lots of rocks that are sticking above grade. I have put 200 hours on them now and no broken ones. Looks like they will last for another 200 hours or maybe more. The truck drivers are very happy with the road surface, cuts the ice right down to dirt and leaves a sanded looking road.

Thx for your info Hawk.

Ive run them on rail access roads in Western Australia through gravel, rock, sand n ballast found they go quite well considering its dry cut well because they are thin but like any will wear advantage is being able to move and turn segments around to keep a strait edge .I also run sandvic but there expensive and take a bit of pushing . Normally use black carbon edges 5/8 thick last longer than 3/4 or thicker because they dont get as hot , thick ones get hot burn metal gets soft wear out realy quick heat treated is a myth last no longer than black ones proved that we go through some real crap ground

Thx Pedrocar,
That’s interesting about the heat and makes sense. I don’t run on anything but dirt roads and it’s not important to cut the floor out. They actually want me to leave an inch or two in the floor if possible. Thus I don’t see much of any heat and often just put the blade in float to take off only the loose/new snow.