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Stupid tight bolt... ideas?

Festeraxp

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Jan 7, 2019
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80
Location
South Central Pennsylvania
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I walk the toughest blocks in State
If the bolt is on there with the red lock tite it will take 220 degrees Fahrenheit to break the lock tite. I know this from break bolts on the back of hydraulic cylinders when re packing them. I have the Milwaukee impact wrench but if it’s stuck and assume there is red lock tite IT MUST BE HEATED.
 

Festeraxp

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Jan 7, 2019
Messages
80
Location
South Central Pennsylvania
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I walk the toughest blocks in State
If it is really really a dire situation get an air hammer buy a spare chisel for it and grind it down to fit one side of the hex bolt or nut and hit it a couple of times with the air hammer that may break it loose too.
 

funwithfuel

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Mar 7, 2017
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Will county Illinois
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Mechanic
If it is really really a dire situation get an air hammer buy a spare chisel for it and grind it down to fit one side of the hex bolt or nut and hit it a couple of times with the air hammer that may break it loose too.

There's not a lot of real estate up alongside any swing box I've ever seen. Not a bad idea for other "what ifs"
 

jonno634

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Dec 19, 2018
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141
Location
Garfield, WA
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Farmer
I haven’t tried again yet, am waiting for my torque multiplier to show up to give that a try. I like several of the ideas, and will let you know what the final outcome is. To answer some of the other questions people asked: I do not believe there is loc-tight as the other 11 do not show any (but don’t know for sure). If it was a bolt I could get to from both sides, I like the welder idea to heat the bolt (without welding). My 1 inch air gun, did not have an extension as it could reach the bolt as it has a built in long anvil. It had plenty of air to do the other 11, so I think I am ok on air supply to the gun. The long cheater and chain winch, hasn’t done anything, but maybe I am to chicken to tighten it until the breaker bar breaks, but I have a really good pull on it. If I wasn’t concerned of catching it on fire, the heating the bolt red hot and cooling with penetrating oil seems like a good idea, but I think id catch it on fire.
 

hosspuller

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Joined
Aug 27, 2014
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1,869
Location
North Carolina
Don't have to go "RED" hot just too hot to hold in your bare hand. the expansion and contraction helps break the bond. I put penetrating oil to the threads as it cools.

That and a few bolts reinstalled next to the stuck bolt to relieve some pressure.
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
If you can borrow a 3/4" impact and a 30mm socket try that .Use a 1/2" hose with 125 psi should be good to go,oil up the impact. I usually use my 1/2" impact.
Bob
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Still try to weasel my 1" into where I have stubborn fasteners, just hard to beat. After that fails the 4/1 comes out of its storage box.
 

jonno634

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Dec 19, 2018
Messages
141
Location
Garfield, WA
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Farmer
OK... so, for that stupid tight last bolt, I ordered the bolt buster and it could heat the bolt, so I heated and sprayed with pb blaster, still no go. I also ordered a torque multiplier, but it took over a week to get it. Once it arrived, I found that I needed a different socket length to use the multiplier then what I had, so got that. Bolt came right out with the multiplier, no pops or bangs... so, final answer was ‘torque multiplier’. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

DIYDAVE

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Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
2,410
Location
MD
OK... so, for that stupid tight last bolt, I ordered the bolt buster and it could heat the bolt, so I heated and sprayed with pb blaster, still no go. I also ordered a torque multiplier, but it took over a week to get it. Once it arrived, I found that I needed a different socket length to use the multiplier then what I had, so got that. Bolt came right out with the multiplier, no pops or bangs... so, final answer was ‘torque multiplier’. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Bolt buster mighta still gave it enough heat to get it started, though...

Glad you got it loose, uninjured!;)
 
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