AND the ball studs are friction welded, meaning removal requires cutting the entire cross section of the ball joint with oxygen-acetylene cutting torch or air-carbon arc.If any of the ball studs are actually worn so badly that even new inserts can't fix them, they are available as separate parts to replace in the field by welding, as shown in the diagram below.
Okay, you're bookmarking and memory is excellent.We've been here before Stan. I was communicating with the OP of this ball stud repair not long back and 3 years after the repair was done it's still in place..........
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/welding-question.54086/
Another method is lifting the mb up and placing a jack under the cutting edge. As you begin taking up the weight of the mb it should reveal your slack from the bottom up. Mb bushing, circle to draw bar clearance lift cylinders. From personal experience, I find the worst culprit for corner to corner movement is circle to draw bar clearanceNige and Cmark are certainly masters of the industry. I'm not.
I'd take a long bar under the end of the blade and pry it up and down while another person checks the movement of each joint. You could go through all the joints and tighten them up. You may need to work on all the joints, or just a few. You'll see quick enough by watching the joints move up and down.
We've been here before Stan. I was communicating with the OP of this ball stud repair not long back and 3 years after the repair was done it's still in place..........
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/welding-question.54086/