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Case 580CK tachometer drive puller for 188D diesel

Doug Overkill

Doug Overkill

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Nov 6, 2008
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48
Location
Mass
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Machinist
All the 580’s are CK or Construction King’s. The original until 1971were 580CK. Then in late 1971 they came out with the 580B CK. Every few years they went another letter.
The 580C CK was 1975 or 76
The 580D CK was 1980 and so on.

No worries on stealing the thread. Not a thing I care about. The moderators might but not me. I started this one to share what I learned about the tach drive.
 
Festeraxp

Festeraxp

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Jan 7, 2019
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80
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South Central Pennsylvania
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I walk the toughest blocks in State
Okay so looking over things today the wire from my starter is constant hot. I don’t even have to turn the key to make it start just touching the wire to the ign part of the ignition makes it start. You guys think maybe the gauges are bad, or does that not matter?
 
T

Tinkerer

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No starter wire to ign. -----the wire that powers the starter should be on the start terminal. Unless you have a push button for the starter. I don't know what type of ign switch you have.
Quite often the push button is eliminated and replaced with a plain ole ignition switch with a turn to start position.
There should be a 12ga. or heavier wire connected to the battery post on the starter and then up to the Bat. post on the ignition switch. That is what powers everything on the tractor usually. And that is the power source for the gauges that are electrical.
Oil and engine temp are quite often mechanical.
 
Last edited:
Festeraxp

Festeraxp

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Messages
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South Central Pennsylvania
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I walk the toughest blocks in State
I do not have the push button but I do have the three position key start. Turn left for the manifold heater then center for off then right for run.
upload_2019-2-5_18-16-41.jpeg
That is the before picture. Now it is a work in progress.
 
T

Tinkerer

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Nasty looking wire terminations. Needs new nuts and a lot of cleaning. Better use penetrating oil on them before attempting to remove them. All new cable ends are needed also. Cut the wire back until you get shiny copper exposed.
It is amazing that the wire with the spade connector that is part way off the post even passes current. Only a couple of strands of wire left in one piece.
It would be interesting to know what all the added on wires go to.
How bout another photo of the red wire in the bottom of the image ?
 
T

Tinkerer

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Did you put the starter wire on the correct (start) post on the ignition switch ?
Do the gauges show any signs of life when you turn the key to the start position ?
I am thinking your problems may be in the ignition switch or how the wires are connected to it.
I would think the old wires were specific lengths for where they went. Can you try and reposition them to get an idea as to where they went ?
This is the reason we can never take enough photos before dismantling wires or parts.
I would suggest that you go back to the oem wireing schematic diagram and start tracing one wire at a time.
 
Festeraxp

Festeraxp

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South Central Pennsylvania
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I walk the toughest blocks in State
Everything is working. I ordered a new light switch today so when hat comes I’ll wire that up and should be good to go. I’ll post pics as soon as I get the wire covers on. Now I’m going to make a tach cable and put that in. I ordered a motorcycle repair cable online. So away I go.
 
pjflyer

pjflyer

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Mar 27, 2012
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127
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Wolverine, MI
I don't know if the CK is anything like the C, but I found in ours a bad relay under the dash. This wasn't to the starter relay, but instruments and lighting goes off this and it was intermittent. Sometimes it would work other times not. It also wasn't something you could reasonably get to from the access ports. I had to take the whole dash shroud off which meant taking the steering column out. Yuck!! A lot of work to get to a stupid malfunctioning relay! If that has one, you might check or replace it if you have the shroud off.
 
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