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Need to get a little info if possible.

kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Never tried it but how about spraying it with an upside down can of that "canned air" they sell at office supply stores. When held upside down the stuff comes out as a liquid and cools things very fast. Just be careful to not get any on your skin or it will cause frostbite!!!
 

carogator

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Jul 17, 2009
Messages
232
Location
south carolina
no gasket.JPG pump side.JPG cconverter side.JPG gasket in place.JPG
gasket in place , pump side , converter side , gasket in place,

I think I have found the problem. With gasket in place, there is a large gap between the parts.
 

carogator

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Jul 17, 2009
Messages
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Location
south carolina
pump.JPG with gasket parts mated.JPG to converter housing.JPG
pump sawzall blade won't fill gap to converter housing
gasket in place
the circles are raised and gasket goes on top of them. I see no way for it to seal.
 

kshansen

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Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Was it like that with the gap before you took it apart? Are you sure you have the correct gaskets for it?

Something sure looks strange, did this ever work?
 

carogator

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Yes, it was like that when I got it, but I didn't have any reason to notice it under the floor panel. I pulled it about 5 or 6 years ago to try to stop the losing prime. Ordered all new parts and they matched what came off. Ran it for a couple more years and parked it. Last year, I started it up again and worked it for a month, then pushed it really hard one day. Started being hard to get it primed anytime it shut off. Putting it back together this week is when I noticed the gap.
The gasket in new hollands diagram (#17) does not match what everyone sells for the part#L33539. That gasket looks like the valve body to converter housing diagram..That would make the gap even bigger, and it won't fit. It may be that whoever worked on it before, got a pump or regulator valve and got the wrong one. I am presently making new gaskets to fit. When the new seal gets here, I'll put it together.
 

kshansen

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Messages
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Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I can only hope that someone jumps in here who knows something about this unit as from here I can not see how this thing could ever work.
 

carogator

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Messages
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Location
south carolina
Put it back together today with new gaskets that filled the gap. Put the pressure guage on and started the engine. Absolutely no pressure on guage. Removed guage and left plug out. Nothing, So. I will be looking for a pump. Thanks everyone.
 

partsandservice

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Feb 14, 2011
Messages
846
Location
Georgia
From your parts diagram line item 15 , shaft seal. And from the picture of the pump, the shaft seal is in the wrong place. It goes into the regulator and the shaft slides through it, that is why it will not close the gap. I think I have one in salvage i can take a picture to show seal placement. I will look tomorrow.
 

partsandservice

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I would be concerned about progressive damage to the pump from the seal being in that position. Tightning it together and rotating it with the engine could have damaged the valve plates which are aluminum. The pump is simple and easily disassembled for inspection.
 

partsandservice

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KIMG0467.JPG KIMG0468.JPG KIMG0469.JPG KIMG0470.JPG Well, I could not find a regulator in the pile. I did find an old pump. It shows that the that the shaft seal is not installed in the pumpKIMG0467.JPG KIMG0468.JPG
 

TVA

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Is that grey spacer is the same as item 17 and item 3 on diagrams? Looks different.
 

partsandservice

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Location
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Line 17 in op diagram would be the same as line item 9 in the ones I posted.
The gaskets may be different as the application is different.
 

carogator

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That info about the seal helps by getting the seal fully seated. But still have a large gap with gasket on. It takes 2 1/2 thicknesses of seal to close the gap. I was filling the pump and ran out of oil. It pumps by hand, but that means nothing under pressure. Tomorrow, I will open pump for inspection. Is there anything to look at to help identify this pump?
When I changed the Hydraulic pump, all the internal parts were stamped with the part #'s.
 

partsandservice

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Feb 14, 2011
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I wish I could have found a regulator to better explain. In your picture when you can see the new seal with the green on it, it does not go there. It is the reason you can't close the gap, the seal is to be installed into the regulator, with the lip towards the pump. The gasket is between the shaft seal and the pump. You can see in the pictures of the pump I provided the there is no protrusion and gasket lays flat. So you install the seal " backwards" into regulator, slide the gasket onto studs ,then the pump. You will notice how the pump shaft has a long stem and the shaft seal does not have to right against the pump plates.
 

carogator

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Messages
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Location
south carolina
That is the way I have it installed now. But, before I put it in, I tried the gap with no seal or gasket. It was still open. The circles around the bearing and the shaft are raised above the regulator gasket surface about 2.25 mm, and the gasket is about .85 mm.
 

partsandservice

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Location
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Ok we are on the same page now. The circles should not be higher than the gasket . There has to be an issue with the pump. As this gasket sits flat on the pump face .
KIMG0469.JPG KIMG0470.JPG
 

partsandservice

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Feb 14, 2011
Messages
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Do know if there is a clark model code tag on that transmission? Usually the tag is on the lower part of the transmission near the output. That would help in running down a pump.
 
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