Galion 118c

Hey everyone this is my galion 118c with 4-71 detroit power plant here in australia i purchased it for $500 from the ag school i went to bit of story anyway, im in the process now of getting her back up to operating scratch things ive done so far are resealed the two lift cylinders two rear scarifier cylinders made new steering drag links new tube in tyre unseize injectors new key switch And other lil bits and pieces, im at the stage now of doing the brakes having a hard time getting the hubs off any tips? I look through the inspection holes and all the brake gear looks new just the pistons an banjos hoses all gone so thats where im at there and my other main issue is the clutch its very high engagement on the pedal and will grind to find a gear until it slows down inside its not horrible that i cant find any gear but i know its not right can anyone point ne in the right direction of things to check that'd be awesome i have attched a few photos to have look at cheers

There should be a push button switch on the dash that you press to engage the clutch brake so it wont grind so bad as far as the hubs go I have got them off with a 30 ton press with a cross bar and bolts screwed into the threaded holes in the hub a 50 ton press would be better and may have to heat and beat on the hub where the axle goes it is tapered with a key way and can be tough to break loose

Yeah i made up a puller with a 50t atleast cylinder and it stripped the 6 holes while beating it with a sledge hammer and i noticed there is two flat parts with hole in the hub when u take the tyre off so i might have to make a puller up to suit that, the clutch ill investigate that im guessing nothing is hooked up anymore the two silver ones are start and stop whats the other switches guessing headlights rear lights..., would it be wise to move the brake switch to under the pedal when it fully on the floor? On the other hand i do have this valve on top of the transmission which is linked to the pedal would that be it the one on the bottom with the grease nipple is pushed in by the pedal i cant see any other wires going into trans other than to the temp sensor on the back of that valve

I have had those threaded holes in the hubs strip before. You can also drill those oversize and thread them for a larger bolt. As was said, the axle is a tapered keyed shaft and those hubs will become one with the axle over time. Usually 60 ton will remove them, with a bit of heat and a few strikes on the hub with a sledge hammer.

My customer don't have his 118 anymore but it was a C model and I remember the push button was down low on the panel . Like Vetch63 said drill and tap the holes out bigger get a rosebud and put a lot of heat on the hub and a big sledge . Not trying to me smart but you did take the big nut off right. I think the wire or valve for the brake should go into the clutch housing

Yeah ive got all the hub nuts off only thing is they are cast by the looks so wasnt really planning on alot of heat and a sledge hammer. If u take a look at the second photo that valve has a breather, clutch temp, pressure line up to gauge and the steel line into the top of the transmission guessing that'd be the one next to that being a pluger activated by the clutch pedal

It wont hurt it I have done several but you have to really heat it

Iam thinking the one next to that grey knob

I have a 118b and the button is on the front of dash lowest right button in seat. I don't think the c model had that. It's a transmission brake.

Yeah ill trace the wires and see where they go however im still thinking that valve on top of transmission has something to do with it ill check it out, could even be just the oil level low where's the plug for that and grade of oil to put in, on another note where is the grab point of the clutch pedal on yours mine is very high up which usually means its on its way out. cheers

Some info here:
http://www.steeringclutch.com/transmissiondiscsGALION.htm
There is a drawing of the "knocker" for removing the hubs at the end of the section on Brake Adjustment and Rebuilding for the 160A&B. The knocker is shown in the brake section for all models but the drawing can be a bit hard to find.

Yeah thanks been through all those and welded an old 2.5 inch trailer king pin on a nut with no joy bashing with sledge hammer , gonna try with more heat this time with a porter power and puller and sledge hopefully next weekend, once i get one off i can sort it and have a plan for the others

Not sure which make or model but some suggested loosening the bearing cap on the back of the tandem to allow the shaft some “give” to accomplish the removal.

So today finally had some time and got a hub off i heated it right up till the antiseize started to smoke and then gave it few hits from behind with a sledge then let it down a did a few figure eights in the yard then had a look and it had moved about 5mm or 1/4" then lifted it up and it come right off best news was the shoes are near brand new and the wheel cylinders look new aswell just need attention from being rusted as the hoses have been ripped off this is definitely the motivation i needed did have the chance the play around a little grading level the yard next door for my grandad to lay hotmix monday, so glad the sixteen year old i was two years ago bought this machine continuing on to be an awesome project not costing me much yet learning loads a good thing to complement by apprenticeship as a plant mechanic.