Any advice on my 188 engine swap in the old ck would be appreciated

Funny Farm, One idea, how far from the border are you? If you are close and have a "friend" you could visit you could drop in for a visit and ship it from there then make a second visit to retrieve it later. Not sure how fussy they are at the boarder about some old tractor parts in the trunk.

kshansen said:

Funny Farm, One idea, how far from the border are you? If you are close and have a "friend" you could visit you could drop in for a visit and ship it from there then make a second visit to retrieve it later. Not sure how fussy they are at the boarder about some old tractor parts in the trunk.

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My brother-in-law (who is married to the one who works at the shipping company) dad lives in North Carolina .... there just might be a way to make something work there. I’m going to look into options for shipping. I know my pump is tired and the other pump I have is unknown. Looks to be in as good or slightly better condition from what I can see visually tho. Used the original as it’s known to work. But I know a pump rebuild is in my near future. Kinda just wanted to make sure the engine runs and I didn’t mess up the rebuild before spending more money on it. A rebuilt pump is useless if the engine grenades after fire up lol. Cheers to all and happy new year to everyone on HEF.

Happy New Year to all on HEF.. Good luck firing her up FF....

Happy New Year everyone..
Hope it all goes well..

Tonight when working away on this project I found a broken spring in the hydraulic filter housing base. I believe it would be for the bypass valve. There appears to be 3or4 loops of the spring left ( each loop is broken from the next ) and the bypass valve is not seating without the spring. I believe this would cause the filter to bypass all the time. Does anyone know if this is a replaceable part? Can’t find anything about it in my books or online. Hopefully I don’t have to replace the whole thing. And since it appears a lot of the spring is missing and presumably went further into the hydraulics ( bang head ) where would I begin to look for the pieces?? if the filter returns to the resiviour should I just assume they are inside one of them and not worry too much about the shrapnel. Maybe fish around in there with a magnet or something and see what sticks ? Lol.

DAM.. that sux.. & your so close.. sorry but I'm no help on hydro problem..
I sure wouldn't "skimp" on a hydro spring.. u better search for the right one..
Sorry for your bad luck..

spring loaded loaded valves each side of filter close with no pressure so filter be changed, open under high pressure, yes, goes to revisiour should be a wire strainer inside in tank in hose going to pump, most have a bolted on housing on hose going out, for access good that most springs breaker clean not many small pieces,, need replace with proper spring, then could be good to go! no filter bypass, unless has be reofitter GL

Excuse my lack of memory but which machine is this on please? And is the filter for the hydraulics or for shuttle?

Thanks for the replies. I cracked the housing trying to remove the bypass part from the housing. Went to the local hyd shop and got a universal filter body and spin on filter to use. Made sure it was capible of enuf flow for the system. Called around and had no luck getting a replacemt for the oem type. Case said it’s no longer available and neither is the bypass valve or whatever it is. So for 100 bucks I got the new filter base and spinn on type hyd filter. It’s a bit larger than the original so hopefully I can make it fit and work. I will post some pics later when I have a chance to take some. Pretty sure it was a bypass valve that was broken.

jimg984 said:

spring loaded loaded valves each side of filter close with no pressure so filter be changed, open under high pressure, yes, goes to revisiour should be a wire strainer inside in tank in hose going to pump, most have a bolted on housing on hose going out, for access good that most springs breaker clean not many small pieces,, need replace with proper spring, then could be good to go! no filter bypass, unless has be reofitter GL

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Valve and broken spring are inside the filt base. Appeared to allow the fluid to bypass in the event of a filt clog up.

Coy Lancaster said:

Excuse my lack of memory but which machine is this on please? And is the filter for the hydraulics or for shuttle?

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It’s the main hyd filter housing on a 580ck. Mounted in front of the loader valve in the right side when seated in the tractor.

LOL WHAT EVER

Took a few pics of the broken bypass valve. And the crack in the housing. It’s gona be a snug fit , with a bracket I think I can make the new filter work. Only oem replacement I could find was close to 300 dollars and a 2 hr drive away.

The after market hyd. filter should work, if you can put a filter gauge in the housing like the oem one and watch pressure as you work the machine.

Coy Lancaster said:

The after market hyd. filter should work, if you can put a filter gauge in the housing like the oem one and watch pressure as you work the machine.

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Thanks coy.that eases my worry. The inlet side fitting still has the gauge in it. There is also two plugs in the new housing where a gauge could go. Figured I’d leave it in the fitting tho. Glad I noticed the broken spring and didn’t use it. Don’t think it would have filtered much stuck in bypass. Would have preferred to keep it original, but those parts are obsolete and expensive used.

All the gauge does is sense pressure build up at the inlet to let you know the condition of the filter, the more pressure the dirtier the filter. By the way have you tried Conequip Parts to see if they have OEM part?

Finally had a break from the cold temperatures and was able to get the essential wiring finished up. Still have to wire the lights and some accessories but it’s wired enuf to run the engine , charge the batt and liven up the dash. Cranked it over to test the starter wiring and it cranked over nicely and even gave a fair bit of smoke out the exh. ( must have been from the oil applied during assembly as the fuel system was not bled yet ). Oil pressure reached 30psi just cranking on the starter so all good there.
Filled the hydraulic resiviors and pulled the fill plug on the shuttle/ trans. Surprised to find the oil was at the full mark even tho I had the engine out and drained lots of fluid from the bellhousing. After cranking it over some more trying to bleed the fuel system, I re checked the shuttle and the level dropped several litres. So I guess I will have to keep a close eye on that till it all levels out once running.
Checked the eng oil level and after cranking it enuf the batt died it too had dropped to just below the add mark. ( assume its due to the filt filling up ). Topped it up and will keep and eye on that too once it’s running.
Couldn’t get fuel to flow out the final fuel filter with gravity feed so I rigged up a way to pressurize the fuel tank to 2-3psi and with the bleeder screw out I was getting lots of bubbles and fuel with pressure on the tank but it stops flowing if pressure is released and gravity takes over. Removed the return line from the top of the pump and the fitting also to check for fuel flow. Noticed air was coming out the return from the tank when pressuring the tank so I plugged the return off and then was able to get a solid stream of fuel from the fuel filter bleeder screw. But again once pressure is removed, flow stops. Left the return line off and plugged and left the tank pressurized hoping to get fuel to fill the pump and flow from the fitting hole but no air or fuel was escaping from there. Cranked it over a bit with it pressurized and still no fuel coming from pump return port. Opend the fuel supply to the pump and with pressure I get fuel to that fitting but not without the tank pressurized. Re connected the fuel lines and return line and cranked it some with the injector lines cracked open. No fuel. Pressurized the tank a touch. Cranked again. No fuel.
Not sure if I have something clogging the fuel or if these pumps are just hard to bleed and prime.
Seems like I should have better flow even just with gravity feed.
Tank was drained and all new filters were used prior to attempting to bleed the system. Fuel shutoff is in the run position and throttle was wide open when cranking over.
Is there a way to prime the pump before bleeding the injector lines. Expected to get fuel out the return port when I had that off and the tank pressurized to prime the pump. But nothing came out at all. No air or fuel.
Ran out of time and charged battery’s so called it quits for tonight. Was glad to get the wiring mostly done. Seems to all be working. If I could only get the fuel system to bleed out now lol. Once I have the fuel flowing all I need to do is add the coolant and make sure all the fluids stay topped up as everything circulates and levels out. Steering system, hydraulics, shuttle and trans all were fully or partially drained as was the fuel system so I should have lots to do as it runs for the first time. Hopefully real soon .... lol. Hopefully
If anyone has any advise on bleeding a rooster masher pump and fuel system I would appreciate it. And should fuel flow freely out the bleeder on the filt under gravity feed. Can I bleed the pump somehow or should I fill it with diesel thru the return port to help prime it. Maybe I need to start at the fuel shutoff valve and work my way toward the filters and see if I have some ice or crud slowing the flow ? All the housings were cleaned and new copper line was made from tank to the first filter as well as new filters used. Maybe I just need to hook the snow plow truck up to the booster cables and just keep cranking till I get fuel outta the inj lines?
Progress anyway. Had some smoke out the exh of the new engine lol even if it was just assembly lubricant burning.

You should have a nice flow from bleeder screw on top filter with just gravity. Double check to make sure filters are in correct position, i think they’re different,top and bottom? Sounds like restriction from tank to filters, I would remove and blow out all lines and check fuel tank outlet. That’s where I would start....

Mnash50259 said:

You should have a nice flow from bleeder screw on top filter with just gravity. Double check to make sure filters are in correct position, i think they’re different,top and bottom? Sounds like restriction from tank to filters, I would remove and blow out all lines and check fuel tank outlet. That’s where I would start....

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Ok. Thanks. I kinda thought I should have good flow with gravity. I will double check the filters are in right and start at the tank valve and see where the restriction is. Everything was cleaned well and I suspect the issue may be in the tank. I did find some ice in the bottom of the second fuel filter base so I wonder if I have some ice in the tank or first filter that’s giving me issues. Guess I’ll drain the filters and start checking flow starting at the tank valve and work my way thru.

Make sure that the fuel level in your tank is above the filters, that way gravity flow will take over.

Coy Lancaster said:

Make sure that the fuel level in your tank is above the filters, that way gravity flow will take over.

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I added 5 gal of fresh fuel after draining the tank. The tank is above the filters so I figured it should be good with about half a tank of fuel. I might get another 5 gal can just to be sure it has enuf tho. Thanks coy.

I had a plugged shutoff valve on my 580b when I got it. After cleaning I had a good flow to the 1st filter. The ice could be a blocking fuel flow. Thaw the filter housing and dry it. If not replacing the filters take them to a warm place to thaw. Add some anti gel to your fuel like Howes, double the dosage since u r up north it won't hurt and will lubricate the pump.