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JCB 210S Starter Access HOW?

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
There just has to be some clever way to service / replace the starter on the JCB 210S ...isn't there? Tell me what it is please. It looks like from below you have to drain the hydraulic system to get by the main return / supply line. From above you dismantle the fuel system and control lines etc.

Went to start the machine, click; charge the battery, click; clean and tighten the battery terminals, click; tighten the ground to the starter, click; scratch head, crawl under, crawl over, flashlight, remove side plate ...just no good way to even reach in and tighten the terminals on the solenoid or even see the stupid solenoid or even get a screwdriver on it to short and bump the dang thing.

I knew this would be a problem from the day I laid eyes on the thing but I didn't expect it so soon.
 

lee

Active Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
43
Location
leicestershire uk
sounds like your haveing a bad time i think the 210 machines are the same as the 2cx machines in the uk they are a pig to do no matter how old it is all so compact i have changed the stater on machines up to 1999 is yours this sort of age or newer if its newer i wouldnt be sure and cant help you then i would suggest contacting digger doctor uk he may have w/s manuel or has even changed one on a newer machine him self just google the name
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Pre-1999 machine so it is the same as you have dealt with.

Sounds like bad contacts in the starter solenoid. Usually I can just bridge the connection manually with a screwdriver to get them working but I can't even reach this one.

Just tight, tight, tight.
 

lee

Active Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
43
Location
leicestershire uk
well if i am right its the same as a 2cx macine and there should be a access panel plate bolted on the side of the chassis near the starter but you can get in there it still dosnt give you much but help a bit if the loader is down makes it harder your machine has got the perkins engine in i take it unless im totally giveing you wrong advise
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Yes, access plate on the side and too the front and Perkins engine. Just no getting to it from where I sit.

Can't even tell if the solenoid has screws to take it off the starter.
 

lee

Active Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
43
Location
leicestershire uk
hi the solenoid is has bolts all the way through it with nuts on i thinks either 8mm nut or 10mm the nuts are the other side of where the terminals are fitted to it to grt the hole starter off i had to cut down a 15mm spanner to get to the back nut and start it turning with a bar once its moveing you should get it with your fingers
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Lee:

Thanks for the instructions. I'll wiggle my hams into the space and see if I can get the thing off. Probably just a clean up of the contacts will do the job I suspect. I can see it will cost me a spanner. Even a stubby won't fit in the space. I hate cutting down tools

Something is working or it wouldn't click. I chased a gremlin like this on one of the tractors for days it seemed. Took the instrument panel apart, cleaned the starter switch and all that only to find it was simply a dirty and / lose connector on the solenoid.
 

John White

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
214
Location
Newark, Ohio
Just follow the basics: Get you a volt meter and some one who knows how to use it and it should be no problem to run it down.
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Fixed, lose connection on the input to the solenoid. Can't even wiggle my arm in there to tighten it though so had to remove the throttle linkage and fuel filter drain line.

Thanks for the help.

Sure hope not to have to replace the starter ...EVER! That would be an ordeal.
 

MIKEJCB

New Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2013
Messages
1
Location
Michigan
As a later post said: "hope you never have to replace one . . ." There is, as far as I've found, no "easy" replacement. I finished mine. It took me over 120 hours. I had to make special tools. I avoided removing the cab and hydraulic tank. There is simply no way to access/turn the uppermost mounting bolt. I ended up air hammering the old starter to pieces. Then, used a twenty ton jack to break the starter housing. Of course, on replacement, this required removal/re-threading of the studs. It also required the grinding of the new starter to allow clearance for the studs/nuts. It also required a revision and extension of the secondary positive leads to the solenoid, of the replacement starter, and the extension of wiring for the oil pressure switch. Works fine now. Explore every other possibility before deciding to repair. Email for further details, and be prepared to consume plenty of your favorite beverage during the process . . . Humorous pictures available.
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
I knew it would be a bear to fix the starter. Removing the hydraulic tank and cab would maybe have beat all that you had to do!

I have managed to get by for these last 6 years without having to work on the starter or the machine since then. I keep it in the barn. Seems sensitive to moisture. Can't believe I've had this machine since summer of '07! Good grief I'm getting old too fast!

The thing is a bear on cylinder seals but all replaced over these years. New hoses are next. Doesn't get much use but runs very well when I use it. Still need to make a skid steer adapter for it.
 

fixithud

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
Messages
10
Location
virginia
You guys had me really worried. I have a 210S and had the starter off in 1 1/2 hours. Basic tools, did grind down the sides of the open end of a cheap 15mm stubby wrench.

Removed air cleaner, coolant bottle, fuel filter, oil fill tube and throttle linkage. Maybe I just got lucky??

Hud
 

El Hombre

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
377
Location
SF Bay Area
As a later post said: "hope you never have to replace one . . ." There is, as far as I've found, no "easy" replacement. I finished mine. It took me over 120 hours. I had to make special tools. I avoided removing the cab and hydraulic tank. There is simply no way to access/turn the uppermost mounting bolt. I ended up air hammering the old starter to pieces. Then, used a twenty ton jack to break the starter housing. Of course, on replacement, this required removal/re-threading of the studs. It also required the grinding of the new starter to allow clearance for the studs/nuts. It also required a revision and extension of the secondary positive leads to the solenoid, of the replacement starter, and the extension of wiring for the oil pressure switch. Works fine now. Explore every other possibility before deciding to repair. Email for further details, and be prepared to consume plenty of your favorite beverage during the process . . . Humorous pictures available.

I think before I would spend 120 hours getting a starter out, I'd be looking at what I need to cut, drill, bend, to get that out. You couldn't get to one starter bolt, what was in the way and could you cut an access hole? I've seen lots of holes thru firewalls instead of pulling the head or engine to RR a leaking freeze plug. Guy I worked with figured out that if he disassembled the water pump on a Citroen SM, it's up against the firewall, he wouldn't have to pull the engine and trans. He got paid for 22 hours and did it in 5. He made special tools for his air hammer and got the pulley and flange off the shaft, then pulled the impellor, then he had enough room to unbolt the pump and pull it out.
 

Abelopez

New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
1
Location
Mexico
Hey guys before u guys did something to starter would if make a click when key was was inserted and turned? Mine wont make any sound at all dont know if Its because i turned the key without the back foward stick hooked up to connector, the stick next to steering wheel. Or when it's the starter it doesn't even click with key turned? Mine doesn't make a sound checked everything's good
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Lucky maybe but you did really well. You should play the lottery.

My hydraulic pump is leaking. I though it was an O-ring and took the thing out. It is a bear as well. You just about have to disassemble it and take it out through that little access cover. There is a big suction fitting that has to come off and all that can be done is to tweak in a fitting type crow's foot wrench. I ended up buying a set to do it. Pump still leaks so it has to come out again. This time I'll take it to a shop and have it tested before putting it back in.

I haven't a clue what to do for a replacement pump since that company went out of business and the thing if filled with a mess of what look like special inlet and outlet port arrangements.
 

hookedondiesel

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Messages
503
Location
Sault Ste Marie Ont. Case 1835C
Hey guys before u guys did something to starter would if make a click when key was was inserted and turned? Mine wont make any sound at all dont know if Its because i turned the key without the back foward stick hooked up to connector, the stick next to steering wheel. Or when it's the starter it doesn't even click with key turned? Mine doesn't make a sound checked everything's good

Make sure your battery is ok, then check "all" your fuses, there is a fuse for ignition on the 210S, this happened to me, the fuse was good but was making a poor contact. Also make sure no wire is disconnected on the ignition switch.
 

hookedondiesel

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Messages
503
Location
Sault Ste Marie Ont. Case 1835C
Well, I just did the starter on my 210 and "fixithud" was pretty much dead on. Took me about 3 hours total, I did have to remove the solenoid from the old and new starter though, the bolt that extends from it got in the way of removing the starter bolt next to the engine block on top. The starter came out from the top, not the bottom. The oil fill tube just needed one bolt removed and the other loosened, then the tube can be pushed forward. Filling the fuel filter was a pain, you have to hold the bottom section of glass etc and re-position it back on without spilling fuel. Although the starter was old, I don't think it was the culprit....the copper "tang" that goes from the solenoid to the starter was cracked/burned, hence it wasn't getting a full load to the starter. Should be good for a while now. My machine has the single battery set-up and I also converted it to a dual batt set-up now. Turns over nicely now.:)
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Hey guys before u guys did something to starter would if make a click when key was was inserted and turned? Mine wont make any sound at all dont know if Its because i turned the key without the back foward stick hooked up to connector, the stick next to steering wheel. Or when it's the starter it doesn't even click with key turned? Mine doesn't make a sound checked everything's good
Mine won't even click now. I have fire to the solenoid when the switch is turned so I'm suspecting the wires to the solenoid are finally broken. Lots of fire to the big lugs it just will not kick in to make the connection to spin the starter motor or slam the bendix in place.

Did you ever find out what is wrong with yours? We have checked the relays but not the fuses. I was not aware there is a starter fuse.

This thread is a lifesaver. I sure appreciate those that participate in it.
 

cherokee101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
99
Location
Oklahoma
Well, I just did the starter on my 210 and "fixithud" was pretty much dead on. Took me about 3 hours total, I did have to remove the solenoid from the old and new starter though, the bolt that extends from it got in the way of removing the starter bolt next to the engine block on top. The starter came out from the top, not the bottom. The oil fill tube just needed one bolt removed and the other loosened, then the tube can be pushed forward. Filling the fuel filter was a pain, you have to hold the bottom section of glass etc and re-position it back on without spilling fuel. Although the starter was old, I don't think it was the culprit....the copper "tang" that goes from the solenoid to the starter was cracked/burned, hence it wasn't getting a full load to the starter. Should be good for a while now. My machine has the single battery set-up and I also converted it to a dual batt set-up now. Turns over nicely now.:)

You may see that I'm not even getting a click when I turn the key now. So frustrating to be humming along with all systems on go, making good progress, stop for the evening, come back the next morning to fire up and NOTHING. I knew I was in trouble when I pulled the starter switch and it said "Lucas". Off, On, Flicker. I was going to push it to the barn but I can't get it to move even after pulling that parking brake bolt. Not sure it can be steered anyway. Cold wind here today and wind like a knife but not as cold as Ontario.

Time to gut up and pull the starter or at least the solenoid. I'll burrow in from the top removing the things you suggest.

On the good side, the new hydraulic pump sure is nice but I need to adjust the relief valves as the bucket curl is a bit low or that relief valve that prevents cylinder buckle is set too low.
 
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