how to change the thumb triggers on a bobcat T300

the way it works now is on the right controller the trigger will latch and hold open a valve until the trigger is pulled again. It accidently gets triggered and then the problem. It will block other controls from working say if it is the close function on a 4 in 1 bucket. It gets annoying and I would like to change how the triggers work. Also on the right controller it a top switch that goes both ways. It is forwards or backwards on the aux. So I am thinking I could cancel the latching trigger and instead use the trigger as a momentary switch one way on the right and the other way one the left. The latching thing will not be missed even on my power tiller. Its not that hard to keep the trigger in while driving. it makes a lot more sense to have open on left and close on the right trigger. Has anyone tried this kinda modification?

Not really sure what's going on here, still trying to wrap my head around it. T-300 would be a G series machine. On those machines, IIRC, when you select "variable control" with the button on the left panel then you operate the aux hydraulics with the thumb paddle switch on the face of the right control lever and you get variable bi-directional flow. The only time one would use the trigger on the front side of the right control lever would be if you wish to "latch in" an attachment, such as a brush cutter, to keep it running constantly while driving.

Willie your exactly correct on its present function. I find this an issue thou and would like to change it. What happens is I get to racing around and I accidentally squeeze right trigger on a 4 in one and it clamps shut and keeps trying, well that tends to lock up the controls being a dead stop. I will try to use another function but it does not respond because of this dead head, so i pull the trigger to stop it from trying. and of course the functions return to normal. what I would rather happen is to use both triggers left and right as open and close or in the case of my tiller or brush hog forward or backwards spin. I tried this once unsuccessful because I lost the high flow. The right controller thumb switch that is like you say incremented is hog wash, when bouncing around on the fly its hard to be steady. If I want to move the 4 in 1 slowly I got to stop count to 5 breath in breath out and carefully engage. Its not natural. I thought maybe its something that can be programmed differ. This machine has what 4 functions on each stick but I believe I could control more gracefully to have just the triggers on each stick. It seems the bobcat is smart enough to not allow high flow accept on the latching trigger. The goal is to be more effective, smoother, etc.. Any info is appreciated. I am also putting a back up camera with screen on this T300. Just to reduce the rubber necking.

Well, changing the control of the auxiliary pipes for operating attachments isn't really possible. The auxiliary circuit is controlled by the main controller (ECU) and it only gets input from the thumb switch on the right lever. Moreover, the input from the thumb switch to the main controller is pulse width modulation (PWM), switching that control wires from the thumb switch to any other switch on either drive lever won't work because all the other switches (rocker or trigger) aren't capable of PWM, only the thumb switch on the right lever can do that. About the only thing you can do to solve the problem of accidentally latching the auxiliary with the trigger is disconnect the trigger, should be wire 4920 where the harness connects to the wires going into the base of the right drive lever.

That's what I'm afraid of. I called a bobcat dealer, no one has done the modification. But sales guy was going to talk too factory guy.

Not sure what other solution they can come up with. The problem is controlling the reference voltage and signal voltages on the PWM switch circuit, I don't know if you can do it with analog type switches. If you look at this diagram you'll see what I'm talking about. The main controller sends reference voltage to the PWM switch on wire 4300, then the main controller gets signal input back from the variable circuit on 4320 and it also gets an input on the negative circuit on 4310 as the variable circuit changes voltage value on the back side of the resistor as it sweeps across the resistor. There's more to this circuit than simple on/off.

Willie you are priceless, wow. I get that and your suggestion to disable the trigger. I will add one more to your suggestion of cutting a wire to the trigger.and maybe more. I will run the cut wire through another on off switch on either handle. So the trigger can be used on brush hog and tiller. And because you are the smartest service guy I know. I would love to have float on a switch, How hard it that to put together. Now float is on left foot control toe down. The reason for that is I use it a lot when fine grading materials and I have tightened up the slop in the left foot and it still takes a lot of ankle pivot to get the full range of the foot lever. With that on a left trigger would be nice. thanks!

Question Willie Does 4920 engage the high flow through 4910? got to have high flow.

hey it looks rather confusing if there is not a clean on /off switch on either handle I am not apposed to installing an independent toggle switch somewhere. Like I said its rather annoying when I accidentally pull trigger. To watch me operate you would of thought I had a seizure of some kind. lol Is 1480 and 1490 just a 12 volt feed. then a toggle on 1490 would cut off right trigger. easy install! Then what about the float on the left trigger would be nice for my ankle, is there a kit to buy to add that, how complicated is it.

sales guy said on the float function just buy another machine...lol nobody does what I'm asking. well I just bought the t300 I like it. I not sure if its a simple matter to just adding a solenoid to the valve body. But I bet I could add an external solenoid to the emergency lower (red handle) and re tube it. take a 12v feed from 4640. hmmm

I believe inserting a control valve between these two points controlled by the left trigger switch , would work. I think I am looking at the feed to raise the arms going to an emergency arm lower manual valve, which then breaks of to two hose one for each side.

To my knowledge high flow is only selected by the button on the left cab panel, no switches on drive sticks control high flow

I'm not sure about the voltage of the drive stick switches, all these wires are connected to the main controller and most control circuits of the main controller are 8 volt. But even if the other switches have 12V on them I'd still advise not to use those circuits for other functions, it might have an adverse affect on the main controller. Crewchief888 would know more about this than me.

The reason the sales guy said "buy another machine" to get float other than on the pedal is your machine only has the float on the main valve spool, there's nothing electrical that does or can control it, only way to operate float on that control valve is to push the spool in fully manually, with your foot and the foot pedal.

The modification you suggested won't work. The loader arms would go down, but they wouldn't go (float) back up because oil on the rod side of the cylinders can't escape because of the anti cavitation check valve on the rod side circuit. The only way you could rig up float on a circuit like that is some form of valve that would connect the circuit on both rod side and piston side of cylinders together and at the same time connect all of that to a tank line. The tank connect is necessary, if you simply come up with a valve that joins the rod circuit and the piston circuit allowing oil to flow back and forth on both sides of the cylinder you'd likely get cavitation inside the cylinder because difference of displacement.

Willie you are the best. I'm telling the world! I looked at solenoid valves and its over my head. I did rebuild the left foot pedal by welding in bushings and a new axle thus tightening the slop. It had 3/4 inch of travel before it pushed on the spool. It helps. But I will add a switch to kill the right trigger function of latching. I will locate the on/off switch near the emergency relief valve. I also am adding a 7" screen and back up camera. I will try the loader this way for a while, and if I can't handle that I can always buy a machine with joysticks. Thanks Willie!

well its done. Float is easier to kick with the slop removed. back up camera is amazing that will definitely help the ease the stress of not knowing what is behind you. The switch I found another way even easier. I cut on handle side A RGN and spliced it to white/LGN (high low speed option I don't have). I can turn off the trigger switch flipping high low switch and I use the the thumb rocker to open and close. All connections are soldered and shrink tubed.

There's also a bit of adjustment for the foot pedals, the bracket that mounts the pedals to the floor. There's either two or three nuts that secure that bracket, carriage bolts coming up from underneath. You can stick a deep socket and short extension through the holes in the foot pedals to loosen the nuts a bit, then the bracket will slide the carriage bolts forward or rearward in slotted holes, this will change the angle of the foot pedal for preferred angle. If you have a deluxe cab machine you'll have to pull back the sound insulation under the pedal to access the nuts.

Also check the pivot bushing for that traverse bar under the seat that transfers foot pedal movement from the left side of the machine to the right side. Just the slightest amount of wear to that bushing will cause considerable free movement from one side of the bar the other side

your exactly right and I have done all of those things and more. The right foot is a lot easier to control because is it has few pin/joints being in a straight line. On the left foot control there is 5 location it develops slop. I wonder sometimes if it would be better to have the functions of the pedals switched. Any ways all is good for now. Love the back up camera. It cost $250, well worth it for the improvement, its got the grid lines that can be adjusted.