Ford 755A Backhoe won't start.

thepumpguysc said:

That's a bummer.. no wonder it wouldn't hit on the juice..
Looks like u bought yourself a project.. Get a book, a gasket kit & go to town on er..
Good luck
Incase u don't know>> a diesel engine has to have 300 psi {min.} to start/run..

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I had already bought a service manual and parts book. That's about the first thing I do when getting such. I hate to work on something without some kind of reference.
My son was helping do the compression check and he asked me what it should be and I told him I thought it should be at least 300 psi.

Built a few Perkins and a Detroit or two thru the years, but never a Ford. It's my understanding that a Ford doesn't have sleeves, but can be bored and sleeved? Since I don't know the history of the machine it hard to say what may have happened to it. I would like to know pros / cons of building it in the frame. I'm sure it would be better to bore and sleeve it but will the hours (3100-3600) maybe an in frame would do it. It all boils down to pull the head and look.

1) valve job head work gaskets for sure
2) rings or rings with pistons?
3) bearings?

It has been a while since I've build an engine in the frame, but something has got to happen. I sure could use it on my place.

Suggestions guys? All ears.

It prob. sat for awhile & instead of bleeding the air, they just grabbed the "quick start" can..??
You gonna find broken rings fo sho'.. & if the cyl. walls aren't gouged, just measure them..
With any luck, you'll get out w/ an inframe kit.. rod brgs & rings..
Do yourself a favor & measure the head gasket thickness.. I may be mistaken but I "think" there are diff. sizes?? Just keep that in the back of your head when u go to build it.. Good luck.

thepumpguysc said:

It prob. sat for awhile & instead of bleeding the air, they just grabbed the "quick start" can..??
You gonna find broken rings fo sho'.. & if the cyl. walls aren't gouged, just measure them..
With any luck, you'll get out w/ an inframe kit.. rod brgs & rings..
Do yourself a favor & measure the head gasket thickness.. I may be mistaken but I "think" there are diff. sizes?? Just keep that in the back of your head when u go to build it.. Good luck.

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Thanks, will be taking some notes. If I can get my son to help (18 with everything but that on his mind) he loves to take pictures.

Fords were bad to break rings if eithered try pouring some oil down the cyls. through the injector holes and see if that helps. I have had some wore out engines that got the cyls. washed down but started after I got oil in the cyls. pour oil in and spin it over before you put the gauge or injectors in

Dave Neubert said:

Fords were bad to break rings if eithered try pouring some oil down the cyls. through the injector holes and see if that helps. I have had some wore out engines that got the cyls. washed down but started after I got oil in the cyls. pour oil in and spin it over before you put the gauge or injectors in

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I typically do that when I check a gas engine, really don't know why I didn't on this one.

What ever happened to this project..?? Still working at it.??

thepumpguysc said:

What ever happened to this project..?? Still working at it.??

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Working 7/12's. No much time to do anything lately. I must also get my shop cleaned out some so I can get in on the inside and break it down.
Thanks for asking. May turn into a winter project. Between this (backhoe), a rat rod build and building a house, I've got plenty to do, LOL!

...but what do you do in your spare time? ; )

Rrriigghht

Head gasket part# 87800517 1.6mm thick
Compression pressure(at 200 rpm's) cranking speed with the throttle closed and stop control out. 420-510 psi.
Super strong machine.

FWIW, I'm an amateur mechanic and have a Ford 750 with a 256 that I had apart in-frame a number of times. Originally it was seized pretty good due to rain water getting in through the the exhaust. I got her running okay after loosening up the pistons and honing the block (these simple diesels just _want_ to run) plus a new turbo, but then a cavitation pinhole developed in #2 so I had to pull the whole block and had it sleeved. Pinholes are apparently not uncommon for that era, just a heads up. Then the head had a crack... so it got kind of pricey and took a lot of time after all that. But, none of it was very difficult. It's nice to have a crane or chainfall to pull the head off, but you can muscle it if you have a strong back (I generally muscled it). Aside from valve clearances and head bolt torque, there really wasn't anything that I needed a manual for, though I have them.

The most difficult part is getting the oil pan off in-frame. You have to pull some engine mounts and those are a little hard to get to. You'll want a good selection of socket universals and extensions, and preferably an impact driver.