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1999 Genie TMZ 50/30 Outrigger Failure

Adam Johnson

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Cantonment, FL
Towable lift. This is the first one we (my father and I) have purchased. It worked for the first 3 months. Now the outriggers will not go down. Genie repair is in New Orleans (not close). We have sadly decided that we could probably replace most of the related parts for the price to two trips to New Orleans and the service cost. Here is the facts:

1. Ran over the charge cord and yanked it out. Broke the plug off. Soldered plug back on.
2. Plugged it in and charged it.
3. 2 Weeks later go to use it and a battery over heated and popped the top off. Damage to one battery only. Replace battery.
4. Battery charger (interacter) not working, look into plug and realize there were some bare wires that got bumped around. Don't believe it shorted because it did not throw breaker. Repaired and batter charger now works.
****Not sure 1, 2, and 4 related to outriggers, but having said that, I clearly haven't diagnosed this problem and want to share all the facts
5. Batteries are fully charge at 27 volts across all 4 of them. Turn key to lower control pad and it does internal checks. Battery indicator shows full charge and battery light goes to slow flash. Horn works. Outriggers do nothing. The outrigger lights on the push buttons also do not light up.
6. Limit/safety switches appear to working as designed.
7. Check PMC. Voltage is not being passed to M1. There is nothing between PMC and blown battery, decide to replace it. Order a new one with post 3 set to 0-5 volts as shown on specs that I found online.
8. New PMC installed. Same result.
9. Circuit boards are blue. This is an outrigger function light on the back board (not the one you can see on the push button panel) it is steady on, which I would take to me that it passes whatever test was designed at that point.

So..., does anyone have advice on how to troubleshoot this thing? None of the outriggers work and the pump is never powered. Troublehsooting is ideal, but to be honest, part swapping is on the table, given there do not seem to be that many that would be related to this problem. I'm not one for wasting money though if someone has the time to offer advice, I'm just not sure how to proceed. Thanks kindly, Adam
 

Adam Johnson

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Cantonment, FL
Yes, thanks. I did check the dip switches. I believe they are correct. I have scanned the manual, but I will take some time over the break to study more closely. Thanks for sharing.
 

hosspuller

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2014
Messages
1,869
Location
North Carolina
Pay it forward. If you find the problem ... Please post it the fix back here. Someone else will be searching here on Genie lifts.
 

Bls repair

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
1,612
Location
S E Pa
Occupation
Equipment operator,mechanic
Don’t know anything about these . With electric I look at fuses,circuit breakers burnt wires.
 

timstar2

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Messages
19
Location
canada
I would check the button pad membrane. If equiped with that style buttons they are known to stick. I have replaced three of them with same problem Are there any codes on the side of the ground controls panel being displayed.
 

Johndoe

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Messages
28
Location
USA
Couple things.
1. the outriggers will not move if the unit is not stowed (test resistance of down limit switch circuit, should be less than 1Ω)
2. If the Ground box doesn't already have it, order the fault LED displace p/n 76426GT (this will let you know if its a coil or button fault keeping the unit from functioning)

P.S. I would not recommend the retrofit kit on any TMZ50. you would be better off selling the unit for scrap and getting a used TZ50
 

Geoff Lott

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
23
Location
Mississippi
Ill assume this has the updated motor controller....ALL THESE CHECKS ARE WHILE HITTING A FUNCTION...(just yellow button will be good enough) first off what voltage are you getting on blue wire coming out of motor controller plug (#1)...should be DC batt voltage 22-25v.....then check white with black tracer coming out of motor controller plug (#3)...should be 1-5 volts usually 4.5volts....this 4.5 is throttle voltage if none of these check out we have a diode or relay #4 issue...if the voltages are there....but motor doesn’t come on (assuming contactor is clicking and making connection) then run a ground from battery negative to negative side of motor should come on(making sure to disconnect negative cable M1 from either motor or controller before hooking negative lead from battery)...(again assuming contactor is making contact) if motor doesn’t click on you have a internal motor fault....if motor comes on your motor controller is no good (internal diode fault)
 
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