Cat D4 7U Safe from scrapping but have lots of questions now

Gentlemen,
I went and saw a Cat D4 7U yesterday near my house in Dayton, the nice gentlemen had purchased the property and it was sitting in the woods near his house. It had obviously been there a while, the story he got from the original owners was that it had "broken a track" and they had parked it in the early to mid 2000's.

For the money he was asking I thought what the heck, grabbed some tools and a good battery and headed over. The pictures below don't do it complete justice but I checked the fuel, oil and radiator fluid and it all looks good. No milky residue in the oil and the fuel looks decent for sitting 10 or so years (at least it wasn't varnish). I am going to try and save her as the undercarriage looked pretty good, lots of life left in the pads, sprockets also looked to be recently replaced and the "solid" front idler was not worn. I will try and number my questions below:

1. It is a 44,xxx serial number D4, I know that is basically at the end of production. Is there anything I should know about this tractor, I have read it could possibly have a wet main clutch based on S/N and year? Also is the pony motor on this tractor different than earlier D4's?

2. Has anyone ever seen a track pin break? One of the pins in the "broken" track looked like the ends broke off...but I Have never seen this happen but I guess metal fatigue over 50 years could do it.

3. I used a cheater bar and was able to get the engine to turn slightly, is there anything I should check other than fluid prior to trying to get the engine started either via the pony or pull starting?

4. This Tractor has a straight blade with manual tilt, the hydraulics looked good and were free when I moved the handle. The chrome on one of the rams has a few spots of rust...can I get these rechromed or just replace them?

5. The controls on the engine for de-compression, and pony motor controls were a little stiff but I was able to move them with some help from a big screw driver as a lever. Any thoughts on how to free these u?

6. I was able to shift into 2 of the gears, the gear **** moved freely but I was only able to get it into 4 and High Reverse. Any thoughts on why?

7. The main engine clutch would only moved about 2" forward and backward. I have read it should "snap" over center as you move it. Any thoughts on why it won't move very easily? TBH there was a lot of dirt and grime where the clutch and foot brakes were so this could be the cause as well.

8. The current owner said the tractor weighed about 10,400 pounds but that should just be the bare D4 tractor correct? Most places I have read said add another 2-4k for blade and hydraulic system. Is that accurate?

Finally, Currently the going price is $400 and I know that is below scrap value but I may be able to get it for free. The current owner just wants it gone. With the decent undercarriage is it worth fixing it up to become a worker on my farm in Tn?

Thanks in advance for all the help,
Nick

Depends on how much money you are willing to pour into it. I personally would jump on it.

Trashman said:

Depends on how much money you are willing to pour into it. I personally would jump on it.

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Me tooooo !!

As far as controls etc just lube them up and work then gently back and forth. Yes the clutch should snap when it engages or disengages.

Make sure you turn the motor over several revolutions by hand just to be sure it’s free and there’s no fluid sitting on top of a piston or two. Overall it’ll just take some time and persuasion to get everything freed up. Steering/brakes will mostly likely be stiff or stuck as well.

It’s worth it any way you look at it!

By appearance looks to have lost a Master pin, the rail sections generally have a bushing that protrudes into the ears of the following link the one loose does not have those ears. Many over the years go cheap when a master either rolls out from age or wear and leaves by replacing with regular steel bar stock, most likely that is what you are looking at. Are there more track shoes missing on either side? Someone may have been into the machine and really screwed the pooch on a cheap reassemble.

As to freeing things up, penetrating oils, then lubricant oils following will generally free them into new life. Make CERTAIN the engine rolls ALL the way over BY HAND before attempting to start it. Same with the pony, get the plugs out and roll it by hand to get it moving.

@Trashman, @Tinkerer - As of right now I am focusing on freeing if from it's foresty parking lot. I am going to cut down the tree's and clear a path behind it next weekend. I will do a further look at the machine and go from there.

@DMiller - The track shoes are all there...as are the factory bolts. Original owner took one off the right side and a few off the left side but I am not sure of the reason. Everything is there to put them back on.
Is there a good place to get a hand/wrench on the engine to turn it over? The front crank is pretty covered by the radiator...and the fan belt is shredded from sitting out. should I replace that and use the fan to turn it over?

Thanks,
Nick

Also should I removed the injectors to ensure cylinders are dry?

Make sure is out of gear, if can locate a stock master pin would be worth a try to reconnect the split rail I would be finding the master on the other side to see what it appears as . Could be they just had them bajo string tight when the last pin snapped but a rail pin on a machine as this generally doesn't.

Belt is cheap, pull the fan screen and replace the belt, use the engine fan or one of the driven accessories to bar the engine thru, gently. Has the exhaust been open to weather? If has will have undoubtedly had water down the exhaust.

Fuel tanks will be a mess, old gas varnishes out bad, water will cause rust that is really hard to shut down. The main tank will be full of black growth, that will ALL have to go and fuel lines blown out prior to a running crank up. Wait until validate engine will make a full 360 rotate.

@DMiller - exhuast has a rain slap on it so closed but I would imagine some water still possibly got in.

As for the fuel I checked the main diesel tank and it looked decent not brown and varnish.

So you recommend replacing belt and turning engine over gently before trying to start it?

If you ask these same questions over on ACMOC you'll get some additional answers.

First, crack the oil pan drain plug on the main and see if any water comes out. Second, drain and replace the pony motor oil. Someone may have engaged the pinion on the pony motor clutch preventing the main from turning over. If you spin the pony flywheel, does the main turn. You may be able to replace the fan belt with a segmented belt. I'm not sure if they make one wide enough. Someone on ACMOC will know. Otherwise you have a front pump to deal with besides the adjusting nut that won't make changing the fan belt fun. $400 is a steal. From what I can see the pads don't look too bad and the sprocket tips aren't sharp. There's life in that undercarriage. You mentioned solid front idlers. Those are very desirable. The bellhousing is bored for a starter so you can convert her to direct start if the pony is bad. It would be best if you had another tractor to drag her out of the weeds but it doesn't sound like you do. If she's not frozen, she'll probably fire right up. May need a little air pressure in the diesel tank (3lbs or so) to help move the fuel to the filter tower. So, take a pin or bolt and put the track chain back together. If you're worried your temporary pin is insufficient, remove a pad on either side of the break. Join the two pads by welding a piece of chain underneath towards the outside edge of the pads so they can move independently of each other but they cannot separate. Bolt the pads back on the chain. Don't make any sharp turns and you should be able to drive her home. I know I'm forgetting a few things. The ACMOC guys will swamp you with info that will make your experience less difficult. What you're about to do the guys over there combined have done a couple hundred times.

I love projects like this!!!!! Keep us updated. Like has been said $400 is a no brainer!!!! Have fun.

I would yes. I would also drain the existing fuel in the main tank into containers and see what comes out, ALL of it. The gas tank for the pony is under the hood, will need to clean that out and look as to home much garbage got past the screen or sediment bowl. Engine rotates to a hard spot, rotate it backward and see if stops same point.

As to better advice, I agree ACMOC is THE place to ask as those guys deal with these full time.

Gentlemen,

as always thanks for the replies and advice. I am waiting to get "approved" to post on ACMOC, Old Magnet was helping me with getting in contact with someone. Either way I am heading back over this weekend to get the tree's blocking the dozer in cut down and hopefully get the blade lifted with some chains and a bottle jack or two. I am also going to try and get the track put back together with a come along...if that doesn't work it may need some heat, penetrating oil and persuasion. I will post some pictures later this week with updates and progress.

- Nick

Call these guys, they're in Medina OH. I have bought from them several times and they are good to deal with.

They know all about old Cats. Talk to Dan. He may have a set of tracks there if you need them.

http://www.grangertractor.net/default.htm

I look forward to seeing how your project progresses, Nick! Yet another boneyard: http://www.crawlerbulldozer.com I've gotten parts from them in the past--picked up on site which is an amazing experience. I don't think they have just one of anything!

@d9gdon - I grew up 20 min from that place and drover 100's of times but never knew what they did only they had awesome heavy equipment out front. I reached out and they have a D4 7U on site so I am going to stop up next week.

@CavinJim - Thanks for the info, I am sure it will come in handy.

Heading over to do some work to the dozer tomorrow to get it ready to move. I will take more pictures and post them when I get home. Thanks all!

Well sadly this didn't work out as I wanted too. The seller was being unreasonable about not damaging any trees around the dozer (it was blocked completely by one). He didn't want to work with me so I told him when he was ready give me a call. It will probably rot away there sadly.

So the search for a dozer continues. I'm keeping my eye out for a d4 6u/7u, d4c or d4d as they are in my price range and I can wrench on them. Will keep everyone posted!

All442muscle said:

Well sadly this didn't work out as I wanted too. The seller was being unreasonable about not damaging any trees around the dozer (it was blocked completely by one). He didn't want to work with me so I told him when he was ready give me a call. It will probably rot away there sadly.

So the search for a dozer continues. I'm keeping my eye out for a d4 6u/7u, d4c or d4d as they are in my price range and I can wrench on them. Will keep everyone posted!

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Go to the ACMOC site and go to the For Sale/Wanted Forum. They are on there all the time, some very fairly priced, occasionally a first post listed with one in the stratosphere. Check often as it is continually evolving.