1988 Cat 953 - Caterpillar. My First Track Loader

Here is a picture of a cat 262c ready to roll on over and down about a 15' bank. I was asked to save it. I jumped in and brought the bucket toward the lower side. If I am on a steep slope I always attempt to keep the bucket on the low side and the weight behind me.

This is the first time I have almost flipped a skid steer over sideways. It got light on the high side and I got butterflies in my stomach. I was able to stop it from going over but it was close. The operator lost his footing twice in the same area and both times he had the ass end towards the wrong side. People dont understand how easy it is to flip these machines.

For all you Case fans, I had to run this Cat for 3 days loading dumpsters, builder bought this to save on my bill so I left the case at the shop. My Case 440 series 3 could put out twice the work of this complete piece of crap skid steer. Go Case. The Cat finally gave up with a blown hose and a surging and cutting out issue. It was moving dirt that i was stacking in with a dump truck and a 953. It was just to much for it. 100 dump truck loads was all it could take. Still broke 5 weeks later. $2000.00 for cat to pull the engine to get to the plastic fuel tank in it.

44k in concrete walls and footings. Safe room and vault. How freaking cool is that? Only other thing needed is a helo landing pad. This is this morning.


Another builder starting a lot across the street. A 953 rival. His is a B model. I was wondering how much stronger his machine is.. BUT If an A/B/C models gets the same amount per hour, which is better for you to run? $$$ If you work by the hour $$$...I been thinking this job will be the one that does my 53 in. My under carriage is popping and trying to de-track from the bottom rollers. Of all things I ran it out of fuel again today while facing down on the rear slope with a load of dirt in the bucket. It started to miss, I dumped the dirt, pull back on the stick to go in reverse and spun it back up and around out off the slope and it just made it. If it had not I would not have been able to get to it with the fuel tank in the 250.. Lucky today, 7th time I have ran a 953 out of fuel.. Yes I keep count.. This time I had a full transfer tank with me. Someone send me back to pre-check school.. Anyway this is so steep on the back side. I did not think i would be able to get back up on the pile, it was about 20' high and had a 10' wide trench 14' deep near the pile. Which was cut in for the wall crew.. It crawled its way to the top of the pile and down the dirt goes. Still 4' low on the back side. So more dirt is needed. Many long days here on the 53.


Out side wall of the garage.



Water proofing and drain installed

Dang look at those teeth. Anyone have any spare cutting edges and teeth for the old girl.
Another angle of the job.

Getting to look like a site ready to frame. This is at the end of the day.

Its been a bit since I posted anything new. I set up and built several concrete slabs for buildings, cleared a lot for a commercial building, move many loads of dirt and rock, cleared a fire break, most recently I have been clearing a house site (on job now for 20 days and they just added another week) all this since I posted here last.. I lately would call myself overworked. I have stopped taking smaller jobs and that has given me more time. But now the jobs are getting bigger and they are taking much longer. I really want a tub grinder now, I feel like I could make a small fortune with one, or more likely spend a small fortune on it

Here for the last few years I have had a hard time finding men that are willing to go 110%. Most are 60% type guys. Here lately I have grown tired of working with other guys on clearing and building work. My concrete men are good but my other guys really seem to just want to stand around watch me work and get paid for more than they do. I don't have any younger help and the older guys seem to just get slower. It is like I must be a baby sitter. I have scaled back to minimal help. I absolutely can not stand keeping up with other men. I call them in to help when I need a hand so they are more like an 10-99 type worker. But it really is just not worth dealing with them. From showing up late, to no shows, to leaving and claiming they are on the clock, from just a complete lack luster of not caring.. Most are just a flat let down.. So I work alone a lot now. I know it is dangerous cause if you drop a tree on yourself there is not anyone there to help...

And up to this point I have not met another person that likes to work like me. That could be bad and good, I guess. I am the type of guy that almost would rather sleep at the job-site than leave with work undone... I am driven.

I sort of consider this thread to be for the new guys that are considering getting into some heavy equipment so most of this is directed to those just getting going.

For anyone that is just getting started, here is my best advice. Only depend upon yourself. If you don't know how to do something figure it out. Learn to weld, learn to be a mechanic, learn to be a salesman, get your CDL, learn to be a saw man, learn to ride around and not worry if your AC is working, learn to get to the job-site 25 mins early. Be eager and willing to learn and work. Learn to balance your money so when you don't have work for 4 weeks you can be looking without being hungry, you don't need a new truck, or a new machine, you just need the will to push forward no matter what.. Any thing and everything can be done by YOU. Just find a way, anyway, and do it.

Forget drinking, smoking, drugs. Grab a sweet tea, Gatorade, water, and go. Focus on your work and do it. Yesterday was a big day, the person paying me was coming to the job site.. I got up at 400 am, left at 445 am, arrived at the fueling station and 530 am purchased $250 in diesel, on job site at 615 am, fuel machine grease and lube, sharpen saws. No coffee, no breakfast, one large water from the house to start the day. At 1200 pm I am behind schedule boss is on site at 200 pm, I ask for 45 more mins, dumpsters are running slow, they say no cant do it, 4 people coming to site with him. I say Ok. Bring me a burger. I skip lunch to finish clearing the main site for there staking party. Never left the site, never stopped for a break, did not have a water cooler, dam was I thirsty.. Got home at 830 pm.. That is what it takes sometimes ... That is what sets you above the rest.. Some tell me that I will pay the price later. You only have so many seasons to be fruitful, don't waste it doing nothing. My family does not come from a line of men that operate machinery.. sort of.. dad uses f-350 truck and trailers and a forklift but no earth moving machines other than a small tractor..

I am that guy that bought a machine without ever being on one. My dad told me I was crazy and that I did not have a trailer or truck to move it.. I said I can pay someone else to move it and I did.

I decided that I needed something bigger than a bobcat and I went to craigslist, I talked to a few sellers. I told him that I did not know how to use it, I asked if he would explain it to me and that I wanted to "test it before I bought it".

Seller hesitated but then was like go for it and just go slow.. I bought the first one that seemed right which was the first one I looked at.. It seemed right and it was. He said to me buddy this is fine machine it is a great machine you will love it.. I did not believe him but I was excited, I was so thrilled, it was like having my own tank! Turns out he was not lying not even a little... Never in 1000 years could I believe that a machine with 14,000 hours on it could do what it does and what it has done for me. I fix it when I break it, I run it and I know it. I have learned as the years go by just what it means to load it up but not over do it. I take care of it. It will make you cuss, cry and be proud. Over and Over and over.

It was time to start moving forward again. I found a little work and was paying to have the machine moved to the sites. So I stated looking for a trailer, which I found. Then I paid someone to move my machine on my trailer which saved me $25.00 per hour. A year or so later I found a truck which I did not drive. I spoke to many men about trucks. Basically I knew I wanted a truck set up with a factory air-brake system, a large motor for power and a large dump bed. I basically wanted the biggest badest dump truck I could find for $10,000 grand. I found it after a lot of searching. I then got my CDL. The truck was driven to me and it sat waiting on me to get the CDL. I had never driven it before I got my CDL. It was quite an experience to drive the brute compared to a new truck at a CDL school. Completely different. I will never forget the first time I got in that old truck and went for a ride. Lost all my air in an intersection. Stopped traffic, could not get it to shift holey hell... I did not think I was going to get it to move.. But I did.

So if you are on the fence just jump off and get in the game. It is worth every bit and it will lead you to somewhere you want to be. I love my job and I look forward to it everyday and I think about my work while away... and don't let me fool you it is not easy it is hard work but it is worth it. This type work takes a special person are you the one?

Georgia Iron said:

Here for the last few years I have had a hard time finding men that are willing to go 110%. Most are 60% type guys.

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This part struck a note with me. "You can't find good help nowadays" is such a common sentiment it's become cliche. But put yourself in their shoes. I for one know darn well that if I'm working for someone else I'm giving most of the value of my labor up to them, so you can bet your behind I'm going to be milking that clock for all it's worth. I wouldn't go as far as being dishonest about anything, but if I'm working for a boss and getting paid by the hour I'm doing the bare minimum it takes to not get dismissed, because the less work I do the more money I effectively make.

On the other hand if I'm working for myself I'm doing whatever it takes to make the customer ecstatic about the job so he'll remember to call me back the next time, and tell his friends about me. Call me lazy, call me greedy, I just call it being smart with your time, talent, and resources.

CM1995 said:

Our Cat Rental store has one of these-

View attachment 126728

Georgia Iron, try loading the Tak bucket first on that bumper pull, you can get a better weight distribution. On my bumper pull trailer, I always load my T250 bucket front, with the back door of the machine slightly rear of the center axles. You might have to adjust the location of the machine to get the right balance with your truck and trailer combo. Not picking but you've too much tongue weight.

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Hey CM. I loaded my tl150, grapple bucket and dirt bucket on my trailer. I was half way choked on the dirt bucket with the grapple. I pulled all the way to the front of the trailer and the trailer set down on the hitch but not really hard. It was about 1' further back than it should have been. I said it should be ok. I pulled out early in the morning as I was increasing speed going up hill I noticed the trailer had drift. This was at 48 mph. I started to slow but the trailer kept drifting. I hit my trailer brake controller and it did not do much... I knew I had to slow down before I got over the hill so I was riding the brakes and i was at 38 as I got over the hill. The drift was getting worse. I was struggling to control it with my 4 door f250.

I was on the verge of loosing it at 25 mph as I was taking 2 lanes on a 4 lane road. Still going down hill. I attempted to throttle out of the drift and the rear end broke free and the trailer slapped the side of the truck and the trailer and the machine spun me in the road. I had brand new toyos on the truck and good tires on the trailer and a full transfer tank in the bed of the truck. It melted all 8 tires evenly around the tires as they kept turning as it spun me.

I lost a few chains in the road came to a stop still on the road but truck partly in the grass facing the wrong way. No one was near me so I was lucky. I ruined the bed of my f250 along with the rear bumper. I normally do not move this machine with the 250 but i needed it on a job, since my f550 tore out the clutch for the 6th time. This time I installed a new south bend clutch. No more heavy duty clutches from the auto parts store. The last one snapped a spring, and smoked the pilot bearing.

Anyway it is so easy to overload the hitch and break it. And it is also easy to not have enough tongue weight. The trailer brakes were replaced about 1.5 years ago, but they were worn some again and this might have prevented my problem.

As I was spinning with the truck and trailer I was wondering if the machine was going to come off and flip down the road or crush me. It stay on. The f250 is not enough truck for the tl150..

jacobd said:

This part struck a note with me. "You can't find good help nowadays" is such a common sentiment it's become cliche. But put yourself in their shoes. I for one know darn well that if I'm working for someone else I'm giving most of the value of my labor up to them, so you can bet your behind I'm going to be milking that clock for all it's worth. I wouldn't go as far as being dishonest about anything, but if I'm working for a boss and getting paid by the hour I'm doing the bare minimum it takes to not get dismissed, because the less work I do the more money I effectively make.

On the other hand if I'm working for myself I'm doing whatever it takes to make the customer ecstatic about the job so he'll remember to call me back the next time, and tell his friends about me. Call me lazy, call me greedy, I just call it being smart with your time, talent, and resources.

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Well take it like this. Nothing I have was handed down or given to me. I worked for it all, the hard and harder way. So I watch workers very closely. I try to look into their eyes to see if they are high or "there". When a man does not work like he should I send them home early, I tell them I don't have work for them the next day. If they milk me, it will cost them, you can bet on that. Right now as I am able I would rather do the work myself than feel like I am getting 60%.

This statement is not directed at you but I can not stand to hear anything negative while I am at work. If you show up and cry about a saw being to heavy or it is so hot today, or really anything negative leave all that at home. Be positive and motivated to do what I need done, right away... There are to many other negatives to deal with like breaking trucks and machines and hoses and everything that can break.. or just getting paid for what you have done. Customers will goat rope your for lots now. It has happened to me I have been beat out of thousands on "hand shake work" my guys got paid but I did not. Now I am much more selective on who and what I do..

But when a man shows up to work and does a good job, I will pay them. Some of my concrete guys get $300 or more per day... if you are a slacker your boss knows if you are working for the one that writes you a check you might just say hey man if I really bust my tail for you today could you possibly pay me a little more. If he says yes then he is a good boss. If he says no find another job. I believe that the most successful companies have good men that can share a vision and are willing to go the extra mile..

The holy bible says stay out of debt. It does so for good reason, it is full of wonderful experience and ways to live your life for a fuller and happier life.. You have the ability to be free and make moves towards things that are better for you. That is partly why I say buy a used machine. Do not go into debt if you can avoid it. Save your pennies and do what you need to until you can do better. I would never advise to go in to debt to try to start making money. If you are doing well and a tool can help you do better then maybe. But try to stay out of debt. This is the best advise I ever learned. I learned it from watching someone that lost everything they ever worked for and they were still working when it was all lost. They went broke working.

Georgia Iron said:

If he says yes then he is a good boss.

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Ah, I should have prefaced my post by saying that most (all) of my experience comes from working in a factory setting as a faceless drone, and where the people in charge of setting the pay rates are a different nationality. If you have a personal relationship with your employer that's different. And if you offer skilled labor that's different too.
I quit that rat race to try and go back to school, and at the same time dabble in small skidsteer jobs. Not sure what the future holds but your posts have got me wanting a track loader bad lol.

jacobd said:

This part struck a note with me. "You can't find good help nowadays" is such a common sentiment it's become cliche. But put yourself in their shoes. I for one know darn well that if I'm working for someone else I'm giving most of the value of my labor up to them, so you can bet your behind I'm going to be milking that clock for all it's worth. I wouldn't go as far as being dishonest about anything, but if I'm working for a boss and getting paid by the hour I'm doing the bare minimum it takes to not get dismissed, because the less work I do the more money I effectively make.

On the other hand if I'm working for myself I'm doing whatever it takes to make the customer ecstatic about the job so he'll remember to call me back the next time, and tell his friends about me. Call me lazy, call me greedy, I just call it being smart with your time, talent, and resources.

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With that attitude I would call you "FIRED" in my company - just being honest.

Here are some more cutting pictures and some saw information. On almost every large pine tree. I see one of these spiders. I have been bitten twice now buy unknown spiders on this job.. Whenever I clear woods I get bitten. Sometimes it does not do much other times it flames up.

And my new favorite saw combo. My MS460 was worn out and tired, needing a new top end. So I let it sit and went out and purchased another ms461 for my primary along with the same for my secondary saw.

Currently using a 28" bar with skip tooth RS Sthil chain. Had a little chain saw comp against a 18 year experienced tree man. He carries a file and is about the only other guy I know that really knows how to sharpen a chain. Myself being the other. I use an 12 volt electric Oregon sharpener with red dremel #455 stones - https://widgetsupply.com/product/bb...MI-tG3pNTK3AIVBlYMCh0UQAynEAQYAiABEgJdOfD_BwE.

2 sharpening per stone with a light raker buzz after each two sharpenings. Saws stay sharp and cut well. Anyway. We both dropped our bars into a 24" pine. The 461 went through the log twice and fast as the 460. He got his feelings hurt and we let it go. Of course it could have been the chains but maybe his 460 is a little worn, it seems like it runs good. He uses a 25" bar with a RS standard chain. The normal way the saw is sold.

I have begun wearing chainsaw chaps and I am glad I did for I threw the 28" chain and it wrapped back around and laid open the chaps on my thigh...

After 3 weeks of cutting I only threw a chain 3 times and it was normally due to limbs pinching it when it would get slightly loose. Very good combo..

Some really nice timber, yes? I have been wondering how much timber is normal for an good acre of land. I am guessing maybe 140 tons of saw logs and 160 tons of pulp ? What is good?

Knowing how to do your own repairs is good but you also have to know when to call in a professional no matter the cost. This is especially true with welding. You don't learn how to weld in a few weeks or even a few month's. It takes years and you never stop learning. If it's something critical that could cause injury or a fatality if it broke, pay a professional. Speaking of trailers, they shouldn't be your first project 3 weeks after you bought your new welder. If you want to fix a crack in a bucket or weld a bracket for a light on go ahead. If you want to weld a lifting hook on a bucket or a trailer hitch get someone with experience to do it. A lot people who think they know how to weld don't have a clue what rods to use so just pick the easiest one for them to use. This could have serious consequences as well.

Looks like the Wolf Spiders we have around here, usually timid but can get aggressive if threatened. Not been bitten by one yet.

Are you dropping those trees as you roll the root ball up? We call those widow makers down here as they will tend to snag on surrounding trees and roll off generally toward the cutter, unless you are felling into an opening. I am a not so well practiced welder, having been a mechanic for most of my adult life I have always welded just generally not so pretty. Takes a lot of time effort and practice to perform adequate welds, double that to make pretty and really solid welds, building a trailer gets you into a sensitive region as to liability should a weld fail where many insurers will not cover your butt over that.

Welder Dave said:

Knowing how to do your own repairs is good but you also have to know when to call in a professional no matter the cost. This is especially true with welding. You don't learn how to weld in a few weeks or even a few month's. It takes years and you never stop learning. If it's something critical that could cause injury or a fatality if it broke, pay a professional. Speaking of trailers, they shouldn't be your first project 3 weeks after you bought your new welder. If you want to fix a crack in a bucket or weld a bracket for a light on go ahead. If you want to weld a lifting hook on a bucket or a trailer hitch get someone with experience to do it. A lot people who think they know how to weld don't have a clue what rods to use so just pick the easiest one for them to use. This could have serious consequences as well.

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When I was a kid. I had a go-cart. It had positive traction drive axle in the rear both back tires pulled. I really abused it and broke the axle. I was living with my mom and we had no way to fix it. When it broke I was down and out. We managed to get it in the trunk of her car and hauled it to a man who welded it up. I will never forget how happy I was!

I would think most guys that are going to be owner operators must learn to weld and learn it well. I have only went to a pro when I did not have the equipment to do the repair. Mostly aluminum repairs or line boring.

All of what you say is very true. I would suggest to find a welder and pay him a few hours time to show you a proper welding procedure. Most would do it. When I first started I knew a man and he gave me basic instruction for free, he was happy to help. Welding old rusty metal and making reactive shooting targets will show you how your welds break and pull apart. It also gets all the flux out and you can really see if you are binding the metal or leaving slag on one side. Use 3/8"s and 1/2" plate then go to town on it with 45/223. The frame will bend and the plates will get holes. It will show you how your welds pop and how you do or do not get penetration.

Welding rusty metal is hard. Welding thin metal is hard. Using a good ground and cleaning your metal is a good start to a better a weld..

Welding heavy machinery in areas that get stress and strain also helps you figure out if you are doing your welding well enough.

Georgia Iron posted: "I have begun wearing chainsaw chaps and I am glad I did for I threw the 28" chain and it wrapped back around and laid open the chaps on my thigh..."

My late brother, a Stihl dealer, always said that a pair of chaps were cheaper than the co-pay at the hospital. For him, I always wear my chaps.

A friend, a forester who teaches chain-saw operation, has 17 chainsaws, most old. We were running chainsaws preparing for a Scottish Games and he walks up to show me where his chaps had saved him a trip to the hospital. Just remember that once cut, chaps lose their integrity and should be replaced.

We made it through our last clearing job. The work was done safely with a few break downs. One log smashed a dump truck door and mirror. 2 hydraulic lines broken, one TL-150 track broke in half, one aluminum fuel tank cracked apart, and one F-550 radiator split on one of the plastic intake tubes. I found a complete metal replacement for $350.00. Plastic topped radiators in every case are complete garbage and avoid them at all cost, especially if your rig is bouncing up and down on dirt paths/roads. The new replacement lasted only 2 years on the job. Never will I buy another even if it cost me $1000.00 to special order what I need. All in all about $2500.00 worth of out right damage plus wear and tear.

On almost the last hour on the last day, I almost threw my track on my 953. The chain made a loud pop in a turn and the rear drive sprocket teeth jumped up onto the edge of the chain and stopped on the sprocket teeth. I barely stopped it before it rode off onto the track pad. I was able to use the other sides track to provide power to leverage it back into the chain. My sprockets are worn out.

So I have finally had a rainy day, thanks to hurricane Michael, I am one of those that prays for rainy days now, the only chance I have to complete repairs unless I am out right broke. I am normally outside working on these machines in the open which does not bother me. I used this day to install some new sprocket segments and check out my idler rods. Here is how I did it.

First I clean the mud off the sprockets and do a basic hose down.

Then I locate the alligator link and move the machine until it is sitting on the rear sprocket. I do one side at a time and I make sure I can access the front and rear of the machine to reinstall the track with another machine. I keep the alligator link on the sprocket so that it is held together by the sprocket. When you pull out the four bolts the tracks will want to go flat which means each side of the track quickly goes toward the ground. If your feet or your dog is in the way kiss them good bye. Keeping both ends on the sprocket allows your to remove your tools and safely use the drive motor to roll a little each way to let them go on there own while you are in the seat and not under them.

You can do this job with the tracks left on. But I find it easier, safer, and a good time to inspect the front idlers. So I drop the tracks off.

I use my harbor freight 1" impact with a 15/16's socket. It will break the nuts loose off the segment bolts. I inspect the bolts. Dirt wears the heads off the back. If they are still close to 50% I reuse the nuts and bolts. The book says to replace. I say destroy then replace.

I take the old ones off. Toss them and put on the new ones. I purchased this set of copies for less than half the cost of CAT parts. The cats were $1200. These were $450.00. Made in Korea. I can not tell you if they are comparable to CAT or not. I am testing these out to decide if I will try the complete Korean under carriage to the tune about 10K, if I do the work. Which is 5 or 6k cheaper than the name brand.

I use my old trusty harbor freight 1" socket set which came with the breaker bar and extension which is also your breaker bar handle extender. I spent about 1k on 1" drive tools from harbor freight about three or 4 years ago. I have used the breaker with a 10' cheater pipe and not bent it yet. You must buy some of the smaller socket sets to get the smaller sockets since the big kits has large sockets that you will more than likely never use....

Once I tighten up the nuts all the way with the impact I put all the weight I can on the nuts with my body weight until they will not tighten any more. With the breaker bar and extension. How much is that? About 185 lbs of GA iron redneck torque.

I then move onto the idler. I clean each side of the rod. I make sure it is moving freely and not bent. Mine only has about 1" of push left in it. My under carriage is shot. Putting on the new segments moves the rod back in about 3/4's of an inch so a little more life. You need to loosin your grease fitting and use another machine to push the idler wheel in about an 1" to make it easy to reattach the tracks. You can push it in further but you just waste grease.

Once you have some slack pull the track back up on the the top of the idler and carrier roller and back to the segments. Put in a pipe so the track will slide over the pipe across the segment teeth until you get it back in line with the other side of the gator. Use some wood blocks in various places and make sure the sprocket teeth are holding the tracks so that they dont fall back away and crush you. Put the lower one about a foot from the ground so you are not fighting too much weight..

Reattach your alligator link and then re adjust your track and then do the other side. Allow about 3 hours per side. If you are fast maybe 2.. If you skip the idler checks maybe 1.5 hrs per side. But you will be more man than me Happy repairs..

And some more

And a few more

Georgia Iron said:

The work was done safely with a few break downs

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Wow! Considering the break downs you listed, I'm glad it was done safely! And kudos for a detailed repair process--but I won't be looking at the photos on my slow connection(!).

Georgia Iron said:

Here are some more cutting pictures and some saw information. On almost every large pine tree. I see one of these spiders. I have been bitten twice now buy unknown spiders on this job.. Whenever I clear woods I get bitten. Sometimes it does not do much other times it flames up.

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That looks like a Huntsman spider. We have a variant of those as well, they are different than what we can wolf spiders.