IH 966 Drain Plug Crossthreaded

Try a bonded seal for bspp / metric port fittings. Maybe with a flange headed bolt

I need a translation for this. 'bonded seal' & 'BSPP'?

Bootheal said:

I need a translation for this. 'bonded seal' & 'BSPP'?

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I believe what is being suggested is a Dowty seal.
Just an example see this link, any good hydraulic shop should have or be able to get them:

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Bonded_Seal_Buna_BSP_Metric_p/9500.htm?1=1&CartID=0

Ronsii said:

Like these
View attachment 186147

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Yes that is what they look like .

That's impressive. Thank you both. Sounds like something NAPA might have.

I've used both kinds of those bonded rubber washers, never heard them called Dowty seals before... learn something new everyday the last ones khansen posted about will seal on both sides of the washer while the first kind rely on the rubber compressing around the bolt shaft for complete rubber sealing.

Yes 1/2 bspp (term) is just short of 7/8" (actual)

Thank you.

We had a honda car that striped i rethreaded it and it looked good but it leaked so now we drain it let it drip out and scilicon the plug. I have also used thread tape. I worked in a gas station after school 30 years ago i hated fords they had the cheapest drain plug setup ever. If i had the pan off a ford i would weld in a better drain hole.

Thanks.

Would like to resurrect this from the dead file and the reason is I am so very slow! I put off replacing the drain plug until I had enough time to drop the oil because I wanted to see if the pickup tubing was somehow plugging up with trash. On engine start, oil pressure is 10 to 12 seconds to build. The inside of the drain pan and pickup tube is extremely clean in my opinion so that rabbit hole is empty. The other reason to remove the pan was to replace or fix the cross threaded drain hole. After I had the oil removed, I could tell it wasn't the crush washer allowing the oil leak but the fact that I chased the wrong set of threads! When I ran the tap to clean out the threads from being cross threaded, I got in the wrong set of threads and this caused the bolt to be angled enough the washer could not seal such a goof! Machine shop is working on that now as I checked the scrap yards for a different pan and they were in as bad or worse shape than this one. Now how should I proceed? Replace the oil pump? It's probably the next logical step and I don't even know where it's at but I think it may be in front of the injection pump. How big of a job would this be and what will a pump cost? Thanks for your time and opinions.

Bootheal said:

Replace the oil pump? It's probably the next logical step and I don't even know where it's at but I think it may be in front of the injection pump. How big of a job would this be and what will a pump cost? Thanks for your time and opinions.

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Do not recall you mentioning what engine this machine has in it. As to were it is located just follow that pipe the suction screen is mounted on and the other end should be connected to the pump.

Before condemning the pump I would want to be sure the slow build up of pressure is real. Could be a bad sender if it is an electrical gauge, then again it could be the gauge it's self. If a "mechanical gauge" could be a restriction in line from engine to the gauge or again a bad gauge!

The way I would be checking the pressure would be to install a known good gauge directly in the oil galley of the engine and see how fast and what pressure you get.

One important plan of attack for any repairs or trouble shooting is to be cheep and lazy! By that I mean do the easy things first, in other words those that cost nothing or very little. And next do the things that require the least amount of work or parts removed.

To jump right to the idea of replacing a pump is not the way to approach this problem!

remove the SENDER & back-blow the hole w/ shop air & see whatcha get out of the pick up screen??

kshansen said:

Do not recall you mentioning what engine this machine has in it.

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Nice tractor. I put quite a few hours on one pulling a field cultivator that a friend of mine owned. He had it set up for tractor pulling competition. It blew a huge cloud of black smoke ! One tough engine !

Why didn't anyone recommend an expandable rubber "core plug".??
The kind w/ a T handle that gets tighter the more u turn the T.. like a boat "plug"..
They make'm in all sorts of sizes..

Okay that helps, appears oil pump is inside front cover of engine, would not consider replacing with out being 101% sure it was bad.

Pumpguy, that might get raked off. I try to not be hard on equipment but in the brush mowing and moving over / piling up fence rows - stuff happens. Beaver chewed off about a 3" sappling and left about 12" sticking up / front tire missed it but the rear didn't survive. Had a limb puncture a battery once. Stuff like that.

I do like the idea of back blowing the tubing.....

Thanks and will certainly entertain any other ideas.

Kshansen, that picture helps a lot! I can see where the pickup tube attaches to the engine block. Right under the front main bearing. I still never saw the pump. The harmonic balancer is just in front of this attachment. More inspection to come later today. Thank you all.

thepumpguysc said:

Why didn't anyone recommend an expandable rubber "core plug".??
The kind w/ a T handle that gets tighter the more u turn the T.. like a boat "plug"..
They make'm in all sorts of sizes..

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motoOzarks said:

howdy neighbor
you can buy expandable drain plug replacements or plugs that kinda cut their own threads
not sure where in order to get your size
I agree with putting a washer under it

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Bootheal said:

Kshansen, that picture helps a lot! I can see where the pickup tube attaches to the engine block. Right under the front main bearing. I still never saw the pump. The harmonic balancer is just in front of this attachment. More inspection to come later today. Thank you all.

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Take another picture with camera pointing towards the front of the engine and I'm sure someone can point to the pump.