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TMZ34 Genie 34/19 Green Board issue

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Mike A

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
5
Location
NJ
Quick run down of machine. 2001 TMZ34 SN T3401-7. The machine sat for years and only has about 25 hours on it!!! Retained the original green boards. Put some new gear (batteries, charger, fluids, etc.) in it to get it back up to speed. Boards seemed to be nonfunctional, so sent them out for repair. The machine worked PERFECT after I ran it for about 20 minutes and put it away. Did another test the next day; I powered it up and just began to beep on and off (long beeps and every couple seconds). Only the left/right platform seem to engage motor and the lowering functions seemed to open valves. Battery level indicator was functional. The level LED functioned and would go out when the sensor was manually tilted. No other functions work.

I tested and verified voltage at all the common points.

ANY ideas or direction?

Blue boards are not available and the newest replacement/fix is at $4700!!!
 
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Engineer44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Portland
Mike, I have the same lift except it’s a 2002. I guess I’d try some of the easy stuff first. Do all the limit switches look to be in good condition? Hydraulic or manual outriggers? None of the boom up functions will work unless the machine knows all the outriggers are fully deployed and the machine is level. My hydraulic outriggers have switches near the feer that get depressed when the pads bear weight. Not sure but I think some of the earlier years only had switches on the inboard ends of the outriggers that told the machine when they were stowed. You should be able to move all the switches and hear a good click. You could also Ohm them out.
Not familiar with the green boards but the the blue boards won’t initiate if it senses any button is pushed and if it doesn’t sense the booms and jib are stowed. You could disconnect the basket controls to rule out a problem with the basket control/membrane panel. These machines sometimes had issues with the multi-conductor connectors that connect to the ground control box. Loose pins, pins pushed back, corrosion, etc. You could check that too. Good luck. Let me know when you find the culprit.

Dave
 
M

Mike A

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
5
Location
NJ
Engineer44 said:
Mike, I have the same lift except it’s a 2002. I guess I’d try some of the easy stuff first. Do all the limit switches look to be in good condition? Hydraulic or manual outriggers? None of the boom up functions will work unless the machine knows all the outriggers are fully deployed and the machine is level. My hydraulic outriggers have switches near the feer that get depressed when the pads bear weight. Not sure but I think some of the earlier years only had switches on the inboard ends of the outriggers that told the machine when they were stowed. You should be able to move all the switches and hear a good click. You could also Ohm them out.
Not familiar with the green boards but the the blue boards won’t initiate if it senses any button is pushed and if it doesn’t sense the booms and jib are stowed. You could disconnect the basket controls to rule out a problem with the basket control/membrane panel. These machines sometimes had issues with the multi-conductor connectors that connect to the ground control box. Loose pins, pins pushed back, corrosion, etc. You could check that too. Good luck. Let me know when you find the culprit.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

Yes, it does have hydraulic outriggers.

Great call on the switches. I went through one by one and found one (telemecanique with wheel) full of water and shot. I took that out and connected the wire for temp connection. This made it operational and function like normal. Last problem I have is the voltage regulator on the CPU board get super hot and the controls go dead after a few minutes. I let it cool down and its operational, but back to the same.

Guess its time to send the board back out again.

Thanks again for the pointers
Mike
 
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Engineer44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Portland
Mike, glad to hear that’s all it was. I replaced all the switches on mine. Several were mushy and intermittent. The Telemechanique switches are nice though, they’re all modular so you can swap cases and actuators (levers/wheels) around. I sourced them from an electrical supply house for less money. Maybe the actual micro switch module part of yours is OK? And just the case where the wires make up were wet?
Again, not familiar with the green boards but do you know if the voltage regulator was replaced when you had the boards repaired? Wondering if they used the right one. Also wondering if it has/had a heat sink attached to it. And if they used heat transfer compound when they mounted it. (specialized white silicone heat transfer grease).
 
M

Mike A

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
5
Location
NJ
Engineer44 said:
Mike, glad to hear that’s all it was. I replaced all the switches on mine. Several were mushy and intermittent. The Telemechanique switches are nice though, they’re all modular so you can swap cases and actuators (levers/wheels) around. I sourced them from an electrical supply house for less money. Maybe the actual micro switch module part of yours is OK? And just the case where the wires make up were wet?
Again, not familiar with the green boards but do you know if the voltage regulator was replaced when you had the boards repaired? Wondering if they used the right one. Also wondering if it has/had a heat sink attached to it. And if they used heat transfer compound when they mounted it. (specialized white silicone heat transfer grease).
Click to expand...

The entine inside of the switch was no good and the exterior actuator was partially seized. I just grabbed the same one on ebay for $5!

They did put another VR in along with the heat sink. I am not sure which model VR was suppose to go back on the board but also looks like there was some thermal compound pressing out.

Thanks
Mike
 
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Engineer44

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Nov 30, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Portland
Mike, where did you get the boards repaired? And how do they charge for that, is it a flat rate? I’m assuming they do blue boards too?

Dave
 
M

Mike A

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
5
Location
NJ
Dave,
I initially used Radwell International. They do have a flat rate for the specific boards to repair. They are unable to test the repairs, but look for faulty components. The boards are under warranty for 2 years. I sent mine back a couple times for the VR problem and they finally said they could not track the problem down. They are in the process of a full refund.

I'm going to speak to MRO Inc next as they think they can repair the green board.
 
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Engineer44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Portland
Mike, yes, I’ve heard of Radwell repairing control boards. I always thought it would pretty hard to do an effective repair though if they don’t have the means to fully test it. If you run into a dead end, before you abandon the board it could be powered with an external regulated power source if that’s the only problem. The onboard regulator could be removed and the board could be fed with a small power supply. It would be worth trying if onboard repairs aren’t successful. Not familiar with MRO. Would love to hear if they do fix your problem. Too bad Genie didn’t have a refurbished board exchange program. There’s a lot of these TMZ’s out there with control systems issues.

Dave
 
M

Mike A

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
5
Location
NJ
Dave,

Radwell did get me up and running as the machine was entirely dead. The control board was no good/corroded/etc. They did bring it back to life, but just got hung up on this VR issue.

I was thinking about that same idea with another power source. Assuming that I'd only need to supply 5VDC to the ICs on the board. Ill take a look at the current VR on the board and check the current specs.
 
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