New addition to the fleet

Shimmy1 · Jul 13, 2018

Scored some spare parts tonight. The estate auction is tomorrow, the guys brother let me pick through the pile of scrap parts and found some stuff. Sprocket segments are 50% better than the ones that are on it, and these rollers have quite a bit on them as well. I'm not sure how they are going to sell the scrap, and I didn't want to try and guess if I had to buy the whole lot. I paid him $100 for the 20 segments, and $30 apiece for the rollers.

Shimmy1 · Jul 13, 2018

So, somebody needs to give me a crash course on running the CCU. I'm sure I could figure out how to make it go up and down by pulling on the levers, but I also need to know how to detach the cables from the tractor. I assume the cables need to be completely unspooled from the winch to unhook?

Welder Dave · Jul 13, 2018

It looks like they really took care of the machine. In your pics. it looks like the cables aren't on the CCU.

Shimmy1 · Jul 13, 2018

Welder Dave said:
It looks like they really took care of the machine. In your pics. it looks like the cables aren't on the CCU.

They surely are. The scraper hasn't been unhooked for the last 5 years.

Welder Dave · Jul 14, 2018

I see I was looking in the wrong place. It was a few years ago they had the D8 at my property. Seems to me the one operator said the cable scrapers had better control than the hydraulic when they were working right. They let the clutch out at the same time they revved it up and it just poured the coal. Tons of torque and great sound. One of the cables wasn't round anymore. It was squished flat. When they brought it out, they drove the D8 and the front wheels of the scraper on the low boy and left the rear wheels on the road. Probably not legal but since they decide what's permissible in their county they weren't going to issue any citations to themselves.

Cmark · Jul 14, 2018

Shimmy1 said:
So, somebody needs to give me a crash course on running the CCU. I'm sure I could figure out how to make it go up and down by pulling on the levers, but I also need to know how to detach the cables from the tractor. I assume the cables need to be completely unspooled from the winch to unhook?

Yes, they need to be unspooled from the winch to disconnect the scraper. There used to be a spec for the minimum number of turns of rope on the drums but I can't remember it. Go for about four or five turns and you'll be OK.

I can't give much advice on moving dirt, but I can maintenance wise.

Avoid breaking ropes if at all possible. If one is starting to look a bit rotten, pull a new length through before it breaks. The tailgate in particular is a bitch to re-reeve.
The apron rope is operated by a sliding sheave block in the draft tube. This rope is bigger then the other ones (1 1/16" maybe?) and if it breaks and makes a bird's nest, it'll ruin your day. Change it first.
Don't winch in until the sheaves bottom out. Learn their travel limit and stop before the end.
Take care of the ballstud where the gooseneck joins the front axle. The do break and who knows what the parts availability is like??.
Buy a 6V4920 cable cutter and a pair of heavy rigger gloves!

DPete · Jul 14, 2018

Let the ejector back a couple feet before you turn, if you have it all the way forward and turn it will break the cable because of the hitch action stretching the cable, same with the hoist don't turn with it all the way up. Don't let the ejector slam back it's hard on everything mainly the return springs. Lot's of don'ts I know but they will save you a lot of trouble. Nothing wrong with a cable rig if you keep the cable control adjusted and learn all the don'ts.

Metalman 55 · Jul 14, 2018

Nice find there with the 7G & pan scraper. I ran a 7G a couple of hundred hours in the early 80's & liked that machine more than any dozer I have ever ran. Small enough to get around in a nimble way, yet enough beans to do some serious pushing.

grandpa · Jul 15, 2018

Nice find there,,, someone here said you could pull the engine in an hour? Well if you ever have to pull the starter, pull the engine instead cause those starters are a sob.

Shimmy1 · Jul 15, 2018

I'm generally not the type that tries to "engineer" replacement parts, but I have a question for everyone. At the sale yesterday, the local used machinery dealer bought the majority of the old scrap parts that were left. Among the parts were a set of tracks for the D7H. I'm not sure the story on them, and the oil plugs have been removed, but the pads are 24" and are in pretty fair condition. What I thought of this morning is this: would I be crazy to try and get these tracks, remove the pads, weld the holes shut, and redrill to fit the rails on my G? It would be a lot of work, but I think with a mag drill and using an old pad with what's left of the grouser bar removed as a jig, it could be done? Obviously a winter project, and for what we had to give for the dozer, the case could be made that it is more than deserving of new shoes, but what do you guys think?

Jonas302 · Jul 15, 2018

I would say it would be far more cost effective and much less mind numbing than drilling all those holes to weld grouser on with the tracks still on the machine

Shimmy1 · Jul 15, 2018

Jonas302 said:
I would say it would be far more cost effective and much less mind numbing than drilling all those holes to weld grouser on with the tracks still on the machine

I don't disagree, but the flip side is when the rails that are on it are completely used up, those 7H pads will probably still be close to half and bolt right on to a replacement set of rails. If the current pads were not razor sharp on the backside, I wouldn't even be considering this project.

Theweldor · Jul 15, 2018

I am not sure you could drill them easily. Especially after welding on them. You could come across some serious hard spots.

Shimmy1 · Jul 15, 2018

Theweldor said:
I am not sure you could drill them easily. Especially after welding on them. You could come across some serious hard spots.

A magnetized press drill with a carbide hole cutter might struggle? I've used one a fair amount, and I know I've read on here suggestions to weld a hole shut before trying to drill a new hole that overlaps the old one. I have also had the cutting edge in a smooth bucket drilled to attach a bolt-on edge, and the carbide turns right through a 3/4" thick edge. I know a twist drill would be a complete waste of time.

td25c · Jul 15, 2018

Torch the holes in the pad to fit the rail . Drop a thick washer under the new bolt & after torqueing weld the washer to the pads .

That's how the hillbillies do it . LOL !

Shimmy1 · Jul 15, 2018

td25c said:
Torch the holes in the pad to fit the rail . Drop a thick washer under the new bolt & after torqueing weld the washer to the pads .

That's how the hillbillies do it . LOL !

Interesting. You've done it with a full set?

Twisted · Jul 16, 2018

td25c said:
Torch the holes in the pad to fit the rail . Drop a thick washer under the new bolt & after torqueing weld the washer to the pads .

That's how the hillbillies do it . LOL !

I'll grab a plasma rather than the gas axe for that task but either would be way better than ruining expensive bits drilling dozer pads.

Shimmy1 · Jul 18, 2018

I have a question for O.I.H, Old Magnet, D9don, whomever else might know. I was walking the tractor around today, and I had the brakes come on when I was turning. A couple of guys told me that the old guy had been having a bit of trouble with that, but if he shut it off for an hour it would be fine. After I got it to the shop and had it do it again, I left it shut off for a couple hours while I was doing some other things, and then walked it a few hundred yards to the other shop to fill it with fuel. Seemed to be fine until I was almost back to load it on trailer, and it did it again. I didn't shut it off, just idled it back, sat there for a minute or two, worked the brake pedals a few times, and made sure they were pulled all the way up. Went back and forth a little bit, seemed to be fine so I loaded it up. When I got to the job site, it seemed to be ok again. Any ideas what could be making the brakes stick on? They don't come on all at once, they start gradually and it takes about 50' for them to be on enough to stop the tractor. Transmission oil is full and looks pretty clean.

Bluox · Jul 18, 2018

Your parking brake is on ,if the lever under the arm rest won't release it then likely the roll pin on the ratchet broke.
Bob

Shimmy1 · Jul 18, 2018

Bluox said:
Your parking brake is on ,if the lever under the arm rest won't release it then likely the roll pin on the ratchet broke.
Bob

The park brake lever is up, when I follow the instructions by depressing the left pedal, move lever down, and depress right pedal, the left pedal stays down like it should. Then, when I move park brake lever back up, the left pedal comes back up? Even it it seems to be working correctly, there could still be an issue with the linkage and using the steering levers could be activating the park brake?
Edit: If this rollpin is broke, is it possible to tie off the linkage to keep the brakes released?

New addition to the fleet

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