TD7E Track adjuster help

Yes sir I have a parts manual

You need to invest in a service manual otherwise you may damage something beyond reusable taking it apart wrong where parts are not all that prevalent for these anymore.

Thank you DMiller. Where can I get one?

I have a engine, operators and parts manual. The service manual would be awesome to have. I'm sure you DMiller wished I would get one too. Lol your probably like oh Lord what is he doing now lol

Fleabay can be your friend as to that manual, otherwise just do a Google search on your tractor series SPECIFY repair or service manual.

Thank you DMiller for all your help!!! I will look. I found this on eBay. Is this the manual your talking about?

Those would be the place to go. Should be one chassis drive train the other engine and hydraulics.

DMiller, I ordered that service manual set! It like it will help me alot!!

The thread seems to be getting a bit confusing to me. We never broke a track on the sprockets on one of the TD machines put out by International/Dresser. There is no outside bearing to support the sprocket so the banging goes directly into the sprocket housing and bearing. Another thing to note is that on some tracks all the pins have dimples in the ends. You have to look for the pins that have a large dimple or center drilling. It is possible for the tracks to have split master pins of the Berco type. The master pins on IH/Dresser dozers did not have much press fit so heating the rail to red on the master link and some judicious use of a pin and hammer was all that was needed to remove them. The master pins will always have a step worn in the pin from the bushing wearing directly against it and you will have to move the link around a bit to clear that step in the pin while happy tapping the end.

The reason the track adjuster seals go bad most of the time is because the tracks are worn out and the adjuster is at the end of its stroke. If you could flop the track off to one side without breaking it the internal wear in the chains is more than 100%. You might replace the seals and have them blow again if you put it back together and run it to the end of its stroke. The other issue is that the barrel will be rusted inside and probably ruined at the end of the stroke. New tracks would put the piston working in the area beyond the damage inside the cylinder and be OK.

There was always a little movement in the front idler bushings that could barely be felt before the shaft seals were installed. However once you installed the end blocks with the seals installed you would not feel any movement. Usually it was all you could do to roll the shaft around. If you knocked the roll pin out on one side you will have to press the block off the shaft. I have a strong back and twelve ton porto power for that. As I recall there were two bolt holes you could thread ready rod into. It is only an O ring on the shaft between the inside bore of the side block and the shaft along with the dirt packed in there. The real issue is if there is any oil still in the idler. Pull the plug and check it. If the oil is gone the idler is scrap metal and you will need a new one.

There are rail type runners on the inside of the track frames that hold the idler front bouncing up and down. Check those for wear pretty close. Usually I just bought bar stock and welded it in there when things got real loose.

Good Luck!

I am going through the same thing on a 100e. if the front idler has enough play where it is moving around excessively then it will more than likely not be rebuildable. the seal housings that you are trying to take off gets beat out and a seal will not go back in. also the housing is nla. The bushings inside are only 1/8" thick as well. I reamed my idler out in the drill press and turned out a new shaft then put a grease fitting in it. best to just run the old undercarriage until it will not stay on it anymore. replacing bits and pieces here and there will nickle and dime you to death and you still have a worn out undercarriage.

Benjamin Herd said:

Good evening, I came home from work today and was getting ready to hope on my TD7E and clean out some underbrush when I noticed my left track tension was a little loose. I fired the dozer up to let it warm and grabbed the grease gun to tighten the track. I tightened it up and put the cap on. When I came back to get on it I noticed the tension had slack in it again. I grabbed the grease gun again and noticed that I had grease comminout from behind the fork and the track would not tighten. I've looked in the computer to see if my dozer had a master link or pin and I can't find any info anywhere! Any help would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first attempt to split the tracks as well as fixing the track tensioner. So any and all help, pointers or whatever you can say to help will be greatly appreciated.
My serial # is. 441002U009869
Thank you

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Mr. Ben I'm in the same situation. The seals have give way. I will stay tuned to see how it goes for you.
myself, i will be splitting the track in order to get to the fork. I can beat on the pin or I can cut the pin out. Im looking now to find a seal kit.
lets pray the fork is in good shape along with the rod. I have a 1974 TD7E Good luck .

DMiller said:

Most will require at least 50 ton to get moving, even the small ones. A gas axe to heat the link ears(SLIGHTLY) as another is mashing the pin can get it moving without destroying the link or the pin. This was removing the rails from my parts donor:
View attachment 183180

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Check out the pin location. remarkable.

tharden said:

I am going through the same thing on a 100e. if the front idler has enough play where it is moving around excessively then it will more than likely not be rebuildable. the seal housings that you are trying to take off gets beat out and a seal will not go back in. also the housing is nla. The bushings inside are only 1/8" thick as well. I reamed my idler out in the drill press and turned out a new shaft then put a grease fitting in it. best to just run the old undercarriage until it will not stay on it anymore. replacing bits and pieces here and there will nickle and dime you to death and you still have a worn out undercarriage.

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How do you identify a warn out under carriage? I did not notice any wear on the rollers when i bought .

There is a internal wear dimension as these units were all ‘Dry Pin’ rails they wear pin to bushing inside the bushing.
Google measuring crawler undercarriage wear.
Most if not all the IH, Drott, Dresser/Dressta rails are now obsoleted and unavailable anymore as are pins or other parts.
A few dealers still have NOS remaining parts but are fast depleting.

Here is a free video that explains dozer undercarriage.


Here is the link to my YouTube channel and you can see all the rest of the videos on undercarriage for other tracked machines.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9ZtvgWG-EtmGZhvtMeBMEQ

It is free information.

You don't need to remove the track to change the track tensioner on a TD7E. Just jack it up and remove the sprocket. You can then pull the track forward enough to get the tensioner out. That is how I did it on my TD7E when I had a similar problem. Seal kit was $20, and I paid a guy $75 to hone out the inside of the cylinder, as it was all rusted and pitted. Works for now, anyways. Got to do the other side. Love my TD7E.

Welcome to HEF, Arthur !

Welcome Arthur,glad you found us

arthur ryzak said:

You don't need to remove the track to change the track tensioner on a TD7E. Just jack it up and remove the sprocket. You can then pull the track forward enough to get the tensioner out. That is how I did it on my TD7E when I had a similar problem. Seal kit was $20, and I paid a guy $75 to hone out the inside of the cylinder, as it was all rusted and pitted. Works for now, anyways. Got to do the other side. Love my TD7E.

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Thank You for your response. Now im looking for an upper roller.