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new ride
- Thread starter Tradesman
- Start date
I got a little air under my front tires on Monday. I had to reach over the front to pick up a couple packages. The piece of wood is a 2x4 I found in the wall of an old house we are renovating there had been a pipe going through the wall encased in brick the wood was 3" from the pipe. I'd say they nearly lost their house likely many years ago there hasn't been a stove hooked up for more than 50 years.
crane operator
Senior Member
That's some old school ironworkers there, they've got their shackle above the ball for one end of the choker, and probably taping open the latch so they can self unhook when setting the bar joists.
TMS 300, with the triangle jib. Doesn't have dead stick out though, and didn't bother putting down the front jack, I'm kind of jealous because I don't even have a front jack.....
TMS 300, with the triangle jib. Doesn't have dead stick out though, and didn't bother putting down the front jack, I'm kind of jealous because I don't even have a front jack.....
classictruckman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2010
- Messages
- 250
- Location
- Ottawa Valley Ontario, Canada
- Occupation
- Tree Climber/339A Crane Operator
That’s what I was thinking, only affects the 10’ and shorter radii.
In reality it really doesn't effect the usefulness at all.
I've had 27,000 on before and was glad to get it set down, I was never out of chart but had to listen to the pre warning longer than I like
How do you pull the dead stick out ?
crane operator
Senior Member
Start with identifiers for the sections, call them base, 1st, 2nd, 3rd (dead) sections, from biggest to smallest.
Telescope 1st section about 3'
Telescope 2nd and 3'rd (they are pinned together to start) to full extension, at 0 degrees, or negative, so you can reach the boom from the ground.
There's a little screw jack , accessed through a hole in 1st section (that's why it got telescoped 3'- to expose that hole and jack). You insert a little handle with a socket welded to it, and crank that jack up, locking the 3rd (dead) section to the 1st section. Then walk out to the end of the boom, and pull the 3" pin that's holding 2nd and 3rd sections together. It comes up from the bottom side of the boom, held in by a keeper pin.
Now you have 1 and 3 locked together with the little jack, and 2 is disconnected from 3 because you pulled the big pin on the end.
Retract #2 all the way. Reinstall the 3" pin, from the bottom of the boom, locking 2 and 3 together, only now 3 is stuck all the way out. Now that 2 and 3 are attached together, you use the little handle and socket to retract the jack pin, unlocking section 1 and 3 from each other.
Now you can boom up, 3 is stuck all the way out and pinned there. 1 and 2 will extend normally - each with their own cylinder.
Uninstall dead section is the reverse.
Most guys get hung up when installing or removing dead section, when they try to crank the little jack with boom telescope cylinder "wedging" the pin locked. You have to bump the boom section just a bit back out after retracting all the way when installing the dead section. That releases the tension on the pin, and you can crank the little jack easily. The same when removing it, you have to telescope all the way out, then just bump the lever enough back (retract) to release the tension on the jack.
You can hear the boom "bump" itself free off the pin from the cab, if you're totally out of the throttle and just bumping the lever. If you do it all revved up, you'll go past the sweet spot. Once you've done it a couple hundred times, you get the hang of it. Actually the most important thing is having someone that's done one before, show you how to do it, that's the fastest learning curve.
If you really want a mess, have someone retract or telescope without remembering to uncrank the little jack, and shearing something off inside, when you have the dead stick out. Then its torch time, if its wedged, because there's no way to get at it.
In this picture I've got the boom laid down to pull dead section back in, before swinging my jib back around, after my job.
1 is out the 3', you can see the little hole in the side of the boom, it's right by the passenger mirror of the crane in that picture.
2 is out all the way, pinned to 3. I've retracted the jack pin , and I'm ready to climb back in the cab, boom up to 30-40 deg or so, and retract both sections all the way so I can uninstall the jib.
Telescope 1st section about 3'
Telescope 2nd and 3'rd (they are pinned together to start) to full extension, at 0 degrees, or negative, so you can reach the boom from the ground.
There's a little screw jack , accessed through a hole in 1st section (that's why it got telescoped 3'- to expose that hole and jack). You insert a little handle with a socket welded to it, and crank that jack up, locking the 3rd (dead) section to the 1st section. Then walk out to the end of the boom, and pull the 3" pin that's holding 2nd and 3rd sections together. It comes up from the bottom side of the boom, held in by a keeper pin.
Now you have 1 and 3 locked together with the little jack, and 2 is disconnected from 3 because you pulled the big pin on the end.
Retract #2 all the way. Reinstall the 3" pin, from the bottom of the boom, locking 2 and 3 together, only now 3 is stuck all the way out. Now that 2 and 3 are attached together, you use the little handle and socket to retract the jack pin, unlocking section 1 and 3 from each other.
Now you can boom up, 3 is stuck all the way out and pinned there. 1 and 2 will extend normally - each with their own cylinder.
Uninstall dead section is the reverse.
Most guys get hung up when installing or removing dead section, when they try to crank the little jack with boom telescope cylinder "wedging" the pin locked. You have to bump the boom section just a bit back out after retracting all the way when installing the dead section. That releases the tension on the pin, and you can crank the little jack easily. The same when removing it, you have to telescope all the way out, then just bump the lever enough back (retract) to release the tension on the jack.
You can hear the boom "bump" itself free off the pin from the cab, if you're totally out of the throttle and just bumping the lever. If you do it all revved up, you'll go past the sweet spot. Once you've done it a couple hundred times, you get the hang of it. Actually the most important thing is having someone that's done one before, show you how to do it, that's the fastest learning curve.
If you really want a mess, have someone retract or telescope without remembering to uncrank the little jack, and shearing something off inside, when you have the dead stick out. Then its torch time, if its wedged, because there's no way to get at it.
In this picture I've got the boom laid down to pull dead section back in, before swinging my jib back around, after my job.
1 is out the 3', you can see the little hole in the side of the boom, it's right by the passenger mirror of the crane in that picture.
2 is out all the way, pinned to 3. I've retracted the jack pin , and I'm ready to climb back in the cab, boom up to 30-40 deg or so, and retract both sections all the way so I can uninstall the jib.
Yikes that's a bit of work. I can see that you would want an old hand to show you how. Thanks for the explanation. Was this process common on cranes of this vintage
crane operator
Senior Member
Some of the later groves are "remote power pin". They use the same system only control everything from the cab, instead of getting out. Similar system on my 70 ton.
Its really not as bad to install as it sounds, and its simple, no extension and retraction cables to go bad, not a lot of extra weight. No different in a lot of ways from the locking pin/latching booms used today on the big cranes. There's nothing new under the sun you know. I actually think dead stick is a more durable /simpler better system than all the cables on a boom truck.
Its really not as bad to install as it sounds, and its simple, no extension and retraction cables to go bad, not a lot of extra weight. No different in a lot of ways from the locking pin/latching booms used today on the big cranes. There's nothing new under the sun you know. I actually think dead stick is a more durable /simpler better system than all the cables on a boom truck.
classictruckman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2010
- Messages
- 250
- Location
- Ottawa Valley Ontario, Canada
- Occupation
- Tree Climber/339A Crane Operator
There’s a bit of money going into that place eh?
The Forman told me everything in the house has to be custom built because off the shelf stuff just won't work, something that would normally take a half a day can maybe take a week because he has to source material then modify it and hand built.
My most high dollar "cabin" I've worked on, took two days of my time JUST to set the windows, using a purpose designed suction cup device. And other bunch of hours setting big custom log trusses, and about 15 semi loads of strutural steel. between the barn (with 6 guest suites above) and the house, I heard it was about 16 mil, by far the most expensive in my county. It's nice to have the rich guys share with us crane operators a little, it was my second highest billing ever!
Finally
Got at those big trusses today, the truss on theft is a 65' the one on the right is 50' we sent the crane home at 3:30 and finished strapping and bracing, ready for another go at her in the morning.
Got at those big trusses today, the truss on theft is a 65' the one on the right is 50' we sent the crane home at 3:30 and finished strapping and bracing, ready for another go at her in the morning.
Yes it's a 40124. The operator was a 21 year old, pretty good we were out 100 ft. On the first truss on the back wall and he was in the blind with the wind blowing the trusses towards us.