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crane operator · Feb 12, 2018

Cattle barn?

Supposed to be 53 degrees (F) tomorrow here, 66 and 67 here wednesday and thursday. Just saying

.

I don't know what that is in celsius, but it isn't a 6" of snow to work in........

Tradesman · Feb 13, 2018

crane operator said:
Cattle barn?

Supposed to be 53 degrees (F) tomorrow here, 66 and 67 here wednesday and thursday. Just saying.

I don't know what that is in celsius, but it isn't a 6" of snow to work in........

-5 c yesterday and sunny it was quite a pleasant day for working. ( no flies no mud)
The building is a loafing shed for race horses, so on dirty days they can be outside but under roof.

crane operator · Feb 13, 2018

Just because I'm going to ask- if you got the crane in the building to set the I-beam, why didn't you just set in there to set the trusses?

Put the trusses just outside the wall, set beside the I beam and reach both halves? Walk the crane ahead once or twice and then outside the building to finish?

Probably didn't have room? Not being critical- just curious (rather than bringing in a bigger crane).

Tradesman · Feb 13, 2018

crane operator said:
Just because I'm going to ask- if you got the crane in the building to set the I-beam, why didn't you just set in there to set the trusses?

Put the trusses just outside the wall, set beside the I beam and reach both halves? Walk the crane ahead once or twice and then outside the building to finish?

Probably didn't have room? Not being critical- just curious (rather than bringing in a bigger crane).

All good questions, with multiple answers. They are very large shallow trusses and hard to handle so moving them would be a big time consuming job, the first truss to set to the centre of the pile is 180 ft.
( I'm the guy to finish a job someone else started, the trusses where dropped previous to my involvement) I don't have a large enough spreader bar, and I want the best climber I know on the roof on this one to move things along, and he usually runs my crane

crane operator · Feb 13, 2018

I figured it was the truss pile in the wrong spot. I don't know how many semi loads of trusses I've moved 3-4 at a time to get them from where they were dropped to where I needed them to be to set them. It's time consuming, and really flat trusses like those are so flimsy that they're hard to move.

Its never fun moving the whole pile closer, or the best is when they ship them with the 3rd truss you need to set, on the bottom of the stack. Its great because its always on the jobsite where you don't have anywhere to lay them at.

Natman · Feb 22, 2018

Taking a tour of a truss plant once was real educational for me. Turns out, they stack them based on how they produce them, and they produce them in the order that is easiest for them. There was a lot of hand labor, many people man handling them. Anyway, they claimed they didn't stack them back asswards just to annoy the carpenters! It sure gives us a lot of extra work though. One of the things I enjoy most about running the 30 ton now, as compared to the previous 10 ton, the two 17's, and the 22 ton, is the increased capability to move entire stacks around, no surprise there I guess.

Birken Vogt · Feb 22, 2018

Back when I was a nail bender we exclusively used the smaller more "boutique" truss builder. The guy had himself and one helper and he drove his own boom truck to job sites to deliver on top of the plates. Well he always had them stacked in the right order. He also always showed up within about 5 minutes of the scheduled time and would go through mud and whatever it took to get the job done.

He also used #1 and better dry lumber instead of #2 green like the "big" truss builder.

Guess what, when the recession hit, the big one went under, the little guy kept plugging along and he looks busier than ever today.

Tradesman · Feb 27, 2018

I'd like to build or have built a new rigging box for the deck of my boom truck, my old Green Lee box has some pretty bad rust. So I was hoping to build something a bit taller so slings could be hung up instead of all piled on top of each other, with the set I want on the bottom most of the time. I thought I would divide it 2/3 - 1/3 with shelves on the 1/3 side for shackles chain fall edge protection .... and the other side my long slings and line bridles, I keep my every day 2" slings and 3/8" chokers and tag line in the belly boxes for easy access ( and most of my regular customers know where they are and get them out and put them away, I just check to confirm ) The proposed new box would be for rigging I use occasionally.
I started doodling and I really don't know where to start , if I put hooks in will the rigging stay hung up or should I do the whole thing in shelves with compartments for each different product. is it practical to make it very tall or would it cause trouble catching the wind. If anyone has something like I'm describing could you give me some ideas please

classictruckman · Feb 27, 2018

Hooks for the soft rigging, shelves for the shackles etc. If you hang the shackles on hooks the pins will unscrew while you’re driving and your toolbox floor will be covered in pins.

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

classictruckman said:
Hooks for the soft rigging, shelves for the shackles etc.

Know what's funny, I'm exactly the opposite. I put my shackles on pins/rods/hooks, and soft rigging on shelves or in clean plastic bucket. Round ups go nice in a bucket, flat straps roll up and set on a shelf. I know what your saying about the pins walking out, but I usually put 4 shackles together, and hang the group on a pin, and then you don't have as many with a loose pin. But I have had them walk out. I just find with shackles on a shelf they are all piled up on each other, on pins keeps them separate.

If a gang box fits nice on your deck, you can't build anything for as cheap as you can buy a new gang box. If you want to get at the rigging from the ground, and don't haul anything else on the deck, you could buy a barn door style box like the spread axle semi trailers use, and then mount it on top of your deck. Then have the doors to the side of the crane. Mount a flat bar with rods sticking out to the back wall or sides of the box for your shackles. You could also put in a shelf and/or divider if you wanted.

Something like this:

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

Don't know how much room you have between boom rest and the cab, and if you have any frame exposed. If you really want to hang straps etc, you may have room for a semi headache rack like this, that still has the window. If you don't have any frame, you could still mount it to the bed.

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

classictruckman · Feb 27, 2018

Up here with road salt and everything I find the steel slings tend to rust on shelves, or mainly on the bottom of the toolbox, and synthetics are better to hang up to dry some. But flat straps are easier to keep track of when they’re wound up the proper way(with the tag facing out for easy I.D.)

I’ll have to get a picture of one of the toolboxes at work next time I’m there, one of the guys decided to organize it last summer and has all of the shackles all lined up neatly on the shelf so you barely have to look at them to grab 4 or 6 or however many you need of a certain size.

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

Just went back and looked at the pictures of your crane. Looks like your hydro tank is right behind the cab, so no room for a headache rack style. I'd do one just like the first one I pictured, on top of the deck. I'd put it right above the one below your deck on the drivers side. Stand in one place and grab what you want. I have put a board in the front of the box like that, 3-4" tall, standing vertical, to keep things from falling out. Makes it easier to stack things up.

Tradesman · Feb 27, 2018

I was kinda thinking something like the first headache rack with the legs off it and my spreaders mounted on the back of it with room to walk between it and the hydraulic tank

Tradesman · Feb 27, 2018

This is my top box now I know exactly what's in there and where it is but it takes a while to get to it sometimes.i might see if I cane get some detailed pictures of that head ache rack and see if I can have one fabricated.

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

Looks like your hyd. tank blocks most of the view out your back window anyways, so you could go with a full door version. The over the road semi trucks with sleepers use them. I would find one from a junkyard or someone getting rid of a leased truck that they had their own rack on. New they are 2,500-3,500. I see them used around $1,000 or so. Sometimes less.

The full width door like the bottom one would be kind of nice if you were hanging cable spreaders in a loop. Or even if you just hung up one end and let the rest set in the bottom.

standard-checker-enclosed-headache-rack-interior-mv6efyjjtjx03iuw5dcgpruzgvehpruihxley5qc08.jpg

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

To see a bunch of pictures just google "aluminum semi headache rack", and pick "images". Any big truck aftermarket place usually has different styles on display. Most of the time you can't build one for what you can buy one for, especially used.

Tradesman · Feb 27, 2018

I like the way you think there is a truck wrecker about 40 km from me I might give a call. Thanks

crane operator · Feb 27, 2018

Here you go, $2,500 kind of high, but it does have that nice one piece door. That is a really big box, you could get a lot of rigging in there. Offer him $1,500 and see what happens? All you would have to do is cut off the legs and make a cradle/ support.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-...ck/1332083348?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

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