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Continental TMD-20 Diesel Engine, any good?

kshansen

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Not really sure what the question is, yes changing the hydraulic oil is as easy as remove plug and catch it in a tub of some kind. Not sure on this 1835 but most of the 1845's have a spin-on hydraulic filter near the back in the engine compartment over to the right side. Screw the old one off and spin the new one on.

Usually a sight gauge of some kind on the engine side of the hydraulic tank. Fill to the full mark then start and let run a few seconds and shut down and recheck and add as needed. Check again after running and moving bucket and boom a bit to work out any air.

I would strongly suggest getting an owners manual for the machine as Case does a pretty good job of explaining what needs doing and how to do it.! I see several online for around $20.00
 

Steve-h

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Jan 30, 2018
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19
Location
oklahoma
Sorry, I didn't explain my self very good. I found the drain plug on the bottom of the skid loader in the back , I cleaned out the plug socket and can now get a wrench in there and take it out . but I see on line that the total hyd. fluid on the 1835c loader holds 42Qts. If I pull the drain plug and drain the tank and change the filter they say it holds only 25 Qts. I was wondering, or how can I replace the rest of the 17qts so it will be all new fluid and not be mixed with any of the old fluid. So it would all be new fluid . But may by that is not possible. The remainder fluid that is in the lifting arm cylinders, bucket cylinders, drive motors, ect.
 

Redman1

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Jan 12, 2018
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Location
missouri
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3-8 Science Teacher/Diesel Tech/Retired Welder
HI, I have recently picked up a Case 1835C with Continental TMD-20 Diesel Engine
Engine seens to run good, with no problems.
My question is does any body have this same engine that is still running and have good luck with it. From what I have read on the internet that no body seems to likes this engine. I wonder why.
I literally just got done rebuilding mine 2 days ago. Its been sitting for 8 years. So far so good. Super cheap and easy to rebuild.
 

Steve-h

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Location
oklahoma
Hey Kshansen, I did buy and owners manual for the Case 1835C . and looked it up on changing the hyd fluid . It showed to change the fluid every 1000 hours of run time. and it just shows to drain the tank and putting a new filter and put in 25qts of fluid. But they don't get all of fluid (42qts it holds total).. But I guess it don't matter. I just thought it would be nice to replace all of it at one time.. By the way thanks for all your help....
 

Steve-h

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Jan 30, 2018
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Location
oklahoma
Redman1 that's Great, keep me up to date on how it runs,, is your engine TMD20 diesel, where did you buy your parts. I was just looking at a rebuild parts kit and they look to be high to me. I saw an in frame over $900 and out of frame over $1000 just for parts. Maybe I am just a tight wad...
 

Redman1

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Jan 12, 2018
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Location
missouri
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3-8 Science Teacher/Diesel Tech/Retired Welder
Redman1 that's Great, keep me up to date on how it runs,, is your engine TMD20 diesel, where did you buy your parts. I was just looking at a rebuild parts kit and they look to be high to me. I saw an in frame over $900 and out of frame over $1000 just for parts. Maybe I am just a tight wad...
Do you have an email, this may get lengthy? I seen all those high dollar kits at first, then I found some small mom and pops shops that had stuff dirt cheap. Trust me when I tell ya I spent many many many hours researching.
 

kshansen

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Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Hey Kshansen, I did buy and owners manual for the Case 1835C . and looked it up on changing the hyd fluid . It showed to change the fluid every 1000 hours of run time. and it just shows to drain the tank and putting a new filter and put in 25qts of fluid. But they don't get all of fluid (42qts it holds total).. But I guess it don't matter. I just thought it would be nice to replace all of it at one time.. By the way thanks for all your help....

Well the only way one could change "all the oil at once" would be to completely disassemble the machine! Remove hoses, pumps, valves and hydraulic cylinders.

Are those figures what it shows in your manual? I don't have an 1835C manual but the 1845 manual shows 52 quarts for "Oil change" and 62 quarts for "Total system". Hard to believe that an 1835C is that much different than a 1845 in oil capacity, but could be!
 

Steve-h

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Jan 30, 2018
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Location
oklahoma
Well,,,,,,I changed the hyd. fluid ,,, I did not remove the filler cap ,,, thinking that the fluid would come out slower because air would not come in..,, But that was a big Mistake ,,,, it had pressure on it.... I was swimming in hyd. oil, my glasses were covered with oil I could not see any thing,, my hair was cover with oil like back in the fifty ,,I felt like Fonzie.. My body was well lubricated , I will never have chapped skin again.. lesson well learned... I felt like one of those girl in oil wrestling tournament....
 
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kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I felt like one of those girl in oil wrestling tournament....
Steve we really did not need that visual!

I see the book does say 24 change and 42 complete system, make me wonder what the difference in the two systems, 1835C compared to 1845, are to make that much difference. Unless it is a typo!

I'll be interested to know how much you use when you refill your machine when you get back from the car wash for a bath!
 

Steve-h

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Jan 30, 2018
Messages
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Location
oklahoma
After taking a long shower I finally got clean again, It took awhile to get the hyd. oil taste out of my mouth....:)
But now I have all the oil changed and new filter on engine and replaced the hyd. oil and filter. I put in a total of 7 1/2 gallons of hyd. fluid that is 30 qts total.. The system says it hold 42 qts total , so I got all of it except for 12 qts that is 3 gallons....
I cut open both filters hyd. and engine filter, to look for any metal filings or broken parts , I even used a magnet looking for metal. Both were clean , Very Happy.....
I started engine and cycled every thing to make sure all the air was out . everything worked good...
The engine run real rough on idle, looks like it wants to jump out of the machine. When you rev it up it runs smooth...
the manual says it may have a dirty injector, to crack each line while it is running, the line that does not make any difference is the injector that is bad or dirty (not a good spray pattern)...
I will check it out here shortly,, I am glad to here it run again...
I traded for it over a month ago, drove it into the garage and started going through it ,, and this is the first time I got to here it run again....
 

kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
After taking a long shower I finally got clean again, It took awhile to get the hyd. oil taste out of my mouth....:)
Gargle with a good IPA will do wonders for that taste. Just don't try operating machinery after that!
 

Steve-h

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oklahoma
well, I cracked each injector line and each one of them make a big difference in the way the engine runs. So that tell me all the injectors are working good.. I guess this three cylinder shakes at idle, runs smooth when you rev it up some.
Redman1 does yours shake at idle?
Might be the characteristics of a 3 cylinder.
I also see I have 2 oil leaks that I need to fix, Valve cover gasket, and the oil cooler to the engine block. (the oil cooler is between the engine oil filter and engine block).
while the engine was running I also pulled the oil filler cap off that also had the vent line going the the intake manifold, and very little blow by as coming out of the valve cover. I put my hand over the valve cover , and after 20 seconds I felt a little blow by pressure, so I was happy with that..seen the motor is in still pretty good shape..
 

kshansen

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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
On the shaking, have you taken a good look at motor mounts? Could be they are a little worn or soft from exposure to oil.
 
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I'm not as good as kshansen but I do have a 1835c and it shakes at the slowest motor speed but most diesels do at low speed so I just move it up one notch to smooth it out and I find it starts better that way too.
 

kshansen

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Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I'm not as good as kshansen but I do have a 1835c and it shakes at the slowest motor speed but most diesels do at low speed so I just move it up one notch to smooth it out and I find it starts better that way too.
Huh! when did I become some kind of "expert"?

Just throwing out thoughts as they come to mind. Hope no one thinks I have all the answers, many times I have more questions than answers and often the questions will make someone answer their own question, if that makes sense!
 
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yes I know you ask the right question for my dad did the same thing when was still here and that is how you can teach ok. I have read a lot of what you have said and it make sense to me so all I can say is THANKS
 

kshansen

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Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
yes I know you ask the right question for my dad did the same thing when was still here and that is how you can teach ok. I have read a lot of what you have said and it make sense to me so all I can say is THANKS

Well I have an Audels Book, they were at one time a major publisher of "How To Books" not sure they are still around. Any how this one I have is called Audel's Answers on Automobiles and the copyright date on it is 1911, so you know it's up to date! right on the cover it is embossed with this statement:

"The Thought is in the Question The Information is in the Answer".
 
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