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old model ford 4500 backhoe (steering adjustment)
- Thread starter Harleyone
- Start date
El Hombre
Senior Member
I did a little research on your steering, seems it's a completely unique setup. Whenever someone was asking about the steering, the answer ran to multiple paragraphs because of the weird ass way Ford built it. I thought you were asking about how to install the pitman arm on the steering gear, but I don't think you have a conventional gear.
If you don't have a manual, there's probably one you can get from the manual exchange on this forum. Good luck....
If you don't have a manual, there's probably one you can get from the manual exchange on this forum. Good luck....
Hey thanks for the reply yes it is a unique setup its more of an assist system what im trying to figure out is on the cycl. at the top is a valve that with a adjustable arm that connects to the steering actuator valve on the main arm it pivots on the pin with washer and carter key and theres a lot of slop on the other stop up that arm. My question is that main arm supposted to have movement at that stop in order to open and close that valve on the cycl.
El Hombre
Senior Member
I did a search on Ford 4500 steering problems; got a couple of threads that had something about that turnbuckle adjustment. One was on Yesterday's Tractor and another was right here on this forum. Just do a web search and you'll find them.
if you look at the pics is it suppose to move the top arm a little first to activate the valve. If so it dosent we bushing the top hole as well to remove the slack. If you adj the turnbuckle so the valve is open the tires steer to the right but will not come back to center unless you adj the turnbuckle again so the valve closes. I think we may need to remove the bushing we installed in order for the valve to open before the tires actually start to move. Am I correct with my thanking
mitch504
Senior Member
You're on the right track with how it works, If you PM me your email address I have a scan saved somewhere of the adjustment procedure, it's too big to post but I have emailed it to a few guys on here.
mitch504
Senior Member
Yep, I'll dig it up after supper
mitch504
Senior Member
I just sent that info by email. Notice the part about lining up the center of the stop pin, the pivot pin, and the center between the two tierod nuts before you set the linkage.
I had saved it on an old computer when I scanned it, then put it on my current desktop, which is in the shop. I hadn't copied it onto this new laptop, so I had to look through a bunch of flashdrives. After I sent it to you, I realized that maybe I could have just gone to my sent file on msn's server. All in all, I started to just ride up there and set it for you.
In my defense, I said I'd send it after supper, but I didn't say what day!
Good Luck
Mitch
I had saved it on an old computer when I scanned it, then put it on my current desktop, which is in the shop. I hadn't copied it onto this new laptop, so I had to look through a bunch of flashdrives. After I sent it to you, I realized that maybe I could have just gone to my sent file on msn's server. All in all, I started to just ride up there and set it for you.
In my defense, I said I'd send it after supper, but I didn't say what day!
Good Luck
Mitch
I hate to be a pain but i didnt get your email mitch but i think i may know why it dosent work we rebushed the stop pin hole because we thought it was too much play if you look at the pics the center hole with the cap is what we rebushed but the play there is how the valve is actuated is that correct? I think I need to remove the bushing we made
mitch504
Senior Member
Yep, that is the motion to actuate the valve, I'll resend the adjustment procedure.
Check your spam, my email is natural_nutrients@msn.com, yeah I know, long and weird, but a fertilizer dealership is the second business I owned, and the first after email started.
Check your spam, my email is natural_nutrients@msn.com, yeah I know, long and weird, but a fertilizer dealership is the second business I owned, and the first after email started.
shopteacher 1
Well-Known Member
Hey Mitch or Harley,
Could one of you send those instructions for adjustment to me? My e-mail is shopteacher1@hotmail.com.
It would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
John
Could one of you send those instructions for adjustment to me? My e-mail is shopteacher1@hotmail.com.
It would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
John
I have done several 4500's over the years. They are a unique Pain In the A**. If you bushed the hole where you installed that Zerk, Take it out!! That oversized hole allows the valve to only activate slightly (about 0.110 in either direction). That's probably why you are only getting movement one way.
To set the length in your original question, start by setting wheels straight ahead and steering box also in approximate middle of travel. Start and adjust from there. This system was at its best only marginal, but if everything is tight they do work. Any slop in gearbox, any of the many bushings, tie rods, etc. can cause it to work improperly. I had one that I rebuilt and turned easy one way and hard the other, took it apart 3 times before I bench checked the system. The spool valve at rest was allowing a slight amount of oil to bypass in one direction. Had to install a 0.020 shim on one side to stop the leak (this is how sensitive they are). Any other questions, please let me know.