Starting up a deutz 2011

Started digging into my "doesn't run" Gehl. Yup thats all I was told.

On the chassis, where it states the model of the Gehl, it also states that the engine would be a Deutz 1011.

Well the valve cover on the actual engine shows a 2011. Did the 6635 ever have the 2011 or is this thing repowered?

Sometimes a guy can make out great on unknown deals like this. Could be as severe as a bad block, but oftentimes it can be something simple like wiring or bad injection timing ...something like that. My brother and I both have had some great deals like this where we were prepared for the worst, but turned out to be something extremely simple and cheap to fix. I hope that's the case for you. Unfortunately I don't have an answer to your question, I don't know Gehl's all that well, but am interested in reading about your journey and learning a thing or two. Where is "DMV Area"?

Any pictures of this bad boy??

Well I pulled the timing cover off - belt looks recent and clean. Not new, definitely used, but not something I am gonna change now. So then I put the Deutz timing pins in and the cam to crank timing is spot on.

Shined a light down the pushrod holes - all 8 pushrods are straight as an arrow.

As I am turning the engine over I can feel very good compression.

Of course it could have a bottom end knock...no clue on that yet...but from what I can tell the motor is tight. Gonna put it back together and slap some 15W-40 in there.

Now were on to electrical and then fuel. It has 4 injection pumps on it...so I mean could all 4 have gone bad making them think its dead? I don't think so. But possibly the lift pump? Gonna try and bleed it out after I first look at all the electrical.

Jeepwalker - DMV is the DC area. We have DC, MD, and VA all a short walk from each other so we call it "DMV"

UPDATE: kept taking things off the motor...theres a hole in the block. Threw a rod clear through the block right behind the alternator. So I couldn't see it until I really took everything off.

Question: what is the "bolt pattern" used by the deutz 2011? If I wanted to go a different route with the engine, and repower with say a 3.3 cummins, or Kubota, or Yanmar (liquid cooled), what pattern would I need? I know car bolt patters but not sure how the adapters on equipment like this works. The unit being a GEHL 6635 and the engine a Deutz 2011 (incorrect for the model - should be a 1011). Thanks for any help on either getting a bottom end for the machine (top end is good) or letting me know what I can do about a repower with a different brand.

Would anyone know if a 1011 and a 2011 could interchange blocks? I should be able to find a 1011 block but would my 2011 guts or at least the big things like injection swap over?

The correct engine is a BF4M1011F a turbocharged engine. used engines and parts are hard to find. you might find a running used engine by contacting a one of skidsteer junkyards out there. New deutz parts are expensive and there is very little aftermarket available. your deutz is oil cooled so installing something else would involve a lot of engineering and fabrication.

Ya might wanna check with Weaver's, shippensburg, PA...

Found a replacement 2011. I guess the 1011 and 2011 interchange. Now I will be pulling the replacement 2011 down and checking it out. I bought a non-turbo engine (only 65hp I believe) so I will be swapping over the turbo and if the injectors/pumps have a different part number they will get swapped over too. I don't know if the cam is the same between turbo and non-turbo but I'll compare part numbers again - my turbo valve cover shows injection pump timing and different injection stroke so I would guess that is all due to the cam. If I swap over the cam then I will need new lifters. Hopefully pistons are the same because I only have 3 good pistons from my junked engine.

If anyone knows if the cam has to be swapped over as well please do let me know.

Update: SHES ALIVE!

Found a very low hours BF4M1011F. Installed it and the whole time I was fearing it would have hydraulic issues or something. But I guess I lucked out. Fired up the engine and she moves nice and precise. The T-bars are pretty cool - I thought I would mind them but actually seems more precise. Time will tell. Now for some new USA made tires and a pressure washing.

These engines blow up because of the oil pick up.....or flat oil pan design.
That's why parts like block crank rods are hard to find.
They don't like to run at an angle.x
Left Right front rear....use a Murphy oil safety switch.
Gen set engine block... er .marine....best source for used parts since less angle *problem

I got my engine from a gen set. But neither the original engine nor the new engine had a flat oil pan. Both angled toward the middle for a deep common sump. The engine I removed bit the dust because a connecting rod bolt decided it had had enough. Very low hour engine too...quite a shame. But glad shes up and running again.