Ratchet binder-how tight/

wilko · Nov 6, 2016

Old school binders aren't supposed to be tightened with a cheater to prevent putting too much preload on chains and binders, but what's right on ratchet binders? I just pull things snug, although it's hard to resist giving the handle a few extra pulls, but I see a lot of guys putting everything they have into tightening binders down. I've even seen bent "D" rings on trailers.

How do you do it?

Shimmy1 · Nov 6, 2016

Tight. If I'm going more than 50 miles (which isn't very often), I'll stop after 15 or so and and give each binder a couple pulls.

fast_st · Nov 6, 2016

Old skool snap binders have a perfect handle for 1 1/2 pipe extensions, I would say its by feel, knowing how much your stuff settles and shifts, and yeah, 10 mile check is good or around there. Ratchet binders, give them a good tight tugging to allow for the initial settling then re-check. Stuff like connex boxes don't move much, rubber tired stuff is all over the place.

wilko · Nov 6, 2016

Yeah, usually hauling stuff on rubber. Fortunately most of the roads here are so crappy that you don't have to go far before you check for tightness. Then I generally check again at about the 20-mile mark.

Isn't the reason for not using a cheater on snap binders that you "use up" most of your chain and binders load capacity, so that in an accident your tie downs fail?

ol'stonebreaker · Nov 6, 2016

1 1/2" pipe cheaters on snap binders have caused a lot of injuries and a few deaths. The factory made cheaters for them are much safer but not 100% safe. When hauling anything w/ rubber tires it's a good idea to utilize the little hole in the snap binder handle to wire it to the chain.
Mike

Jonas302 · Nov 6, 2016

Who said snap binders are not supposed to be tightened with a cheater?

Shimmy1 · Nov 6, 2016

I think if snap binders were used properly, they would be just fine. Problem is, some guys either don't hook them properly, or don't secure the handle. If I have to use them, I make sure that the end of the chain to the trailer passes thru the d-ring and back to the bottom hook on the binder. That way each link you go tighter is actually a half link. Another advantage is if you're using 20' chains, and the tie-downs are short enough, one chain can do two tie downs.

td25c · Nov 6, 2016

Use a 30" pipe to help assist on " snap binders " . If I don't use the pipe the chain will be to loose , I aint as tough as I used to be .

On the threaded turnbuckle " ratchet " style binders just twist on the handle between 40 to 50 pound pull on heavy tracked equipment .

Also keep the threads well lubed with oil so they work proper .

Light equipment seems to give me the most trouble . Have to use more tie down points on the lawn mower than the dozer to keep it from bouncing off the trailer .

Everything is different & just have to use your own judgment depending on the load .

wilko · Nov 8, 2016

td25c said:
Use a 30" pipe to help assist on " snap binders " . If I don't use the pipe the chain will be to loose , I aint as tough as I used to be .

On the threaded turnbuckle " ratchet " style binders just twist on the handle between 40 to 50 pound pull on heavy tracked equipment .

Also keep the threads well lubed with oil so they work proper .

Light equipment seems to give me the most trouble . Have to use more tie down points on the lawn mower than the dozer to keep it from bouncing off the trailer .

Everything is different & just have to use your own judgment depending on the load .

That's about what I do. More seems like too much.

Birken Vogt · Nov 8, 2016

Shimmy1 said:
I think if snap binders were used properly, they would be just fine. Problem is, some guys either don't hook them properly, or don't secure the handle. If I have to use them, I make sure that the end of the chain to the trailer passes thru the d-ring and back to the bottom hook on the binder. That way each link you go tighter is actually a half link. Another advantage is if you're using 20' chains, and the tie-downs are short enough, one chain can do two tie downs.

I'm not claiming anything one way or the other but you would have to go a long way around here to see a snap binder wired shut.

One day the boss insisted that we wire them and I thought I would die of old age and there were wires getting strewn everywhere. After a while rachet style ones appeared. I don't know where they came from but it beat using wires.

fast_st · Nov 9, 2016

I only use binders a couple times a year, but when I got them new in 2001, I lashed a piece of 16 ga stranded wire through the little hole with two half hitches and will secure it with a square knot, haven't even broken the wire yet.

td25c · Nov 9, 2016

Generally just wrap the excess length of chain around the " snap binder " or use a tarp strap to help secure it .

One other item I use to help keep chains tight is short 7" X 9" rail tie ends for " chocks " . Jamb them under the tires / tracks front & rear sure helps keep the load in place & chains snug .

JoshA · Dec 12, 2016

td25c said:
Use a 30" pipe to help assist on " snap binders " . If I don't use the pipe the chain will be to loose , I aint as tough as I used to be .

On the threaded turnbuckle " ratchet " style binders just twist on the handle between 40 to 50 pound pull on heavy tracked equipment .

Also keep the threads well lubed with oil so they work proper .

Light equipment seems to give me the most trouble . Have to use more tie down points on the lawn mower than the dozer to keep it from bouncing off the trailer .

Everything is different & just have to use your own judgment depending on the load .

I'd rather use a pipe on the snap binders than the winch bar designed for it.

How do you measure the pull on the ratchet style?

I'm with Shimmy, I tighten them tight. Overtight, and why not, think I can tighten them more than a car crash would? Should be able to flop over in a ditch and not have a load shift. Tracks are easy, tired machines suck. Almost need two binders per corner. I'd like to find extra long travel ratchets.

fast_st · Dec 13, 2016

My memory gets foggy, wasn't there a snap binder that had a fat coil spring on it, you'd latch it so the coil spring was mostly compressed.

td25c · Dec 13, 2016

Yeah fast_st , found a couple .

http://www.truckntow.com/lever-style-load-binders-spring-loaded.html

Have to open up the checkbook a little wider on the Crosby but probably worth it in the long run .

https://www.hanessupply.com/itemDet...Lebus+Snubbing+Load+Binders&CategoryText5=N/A

Thought I saw some hanging in the local hardware store last time I was in there . Have to check it out next time .

grandpa · Dec 13, 2016

The ones with the spring are so da** heavy you don't need to snap em, the weight of em alone holds the load...lol.... I have that style but don't use em anymore... rachet for me!

td25c · Dec 13, 2016

I hear ya gramps !

These chain & ratchet binder combo sets look interesting . Price is good .

http://www.awdirect.com/under-reach...ab-hook-ldrur38/load-binders-and-accessories/

I like the idea that its all in one piece saving steps back & forth while loading & unloading .

Might even save a little space in the chain box ?

td25c · Dec 13, 2016

JoshA said:
How do you measure the pull on the ratchet style?

Good question Josh .

Probably from years of torqueing heads & tossin hay bales .

:beatsme

grandpa · Dec 13, 2016

Well,, you can always use a fish type scale for checking them..... you'd have to use the one I use for my fish and not the little ones willie59 uses on his guppys. lol :falldownlaugh

Junkyard · Dec 13, 2016

Well.....with big iron and 1/2" or 5/8" chain I would tighten them all I could and sometimes a half turn with a cheater. Smaller chains and iffy tie down places I'd get them tight but not so tight I'd pull the rub rail off the trailer. For the most part the handle won't give you enough leverage to over tighten them. It all comes with practice.

Junkyard

Ratchet binder-how tight/

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