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D6H Hard nose loose

turbo8781

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Jan 10, 2010
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I'm looking at a 6H to buy and the hard nose moves back and forth when you lift and lower the blade. now I did research the replacement pins and in doing so discovered there is also bearings in the bors. So i'm wondering what my chances are that i could get away with just replacing the wear parts or if i would have to do some line boring.

The other issue is the hard bar. I know for sure that the end bearings are out but not sure if its eat into the bar its self. Not sure where to look for after market. I do remember seeing a thread on here some time ago where a guy had a simillar problem and he got an after market on for under 2k i think (5685.00 from CAT). I have a price on parts from cat for everything for the hard nose to the hard bar (including the bar itself) $7536.00
I have yet to get oil samples.
Is there any other problems that the older H"s are proned to?

ser# 4RC01861
 

dblaneyfan

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Jan 26, 2009
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155
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GA
We have had problems with nose cones developing movement on D6 and D8Rs, have not had to have then line bored, just replaced the pins and bushings. With any luck you should have the same experience.

Regarding the hard bar we usually have a local machine shop build up the ends, runs under $1k to have rebuilt and ready to go. Involves building up, turning down, installing seals and bearings. Aftermarket can be found for a little over $1200.

Best
 

turbo8781

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We have had problems with nose cones developing movement on D6 and D8Rs, have not had to have then line bored, just replaced the pins and bushings. With any luck you should have the same experience.

Regarding the hard bar we usually have a local machine shop build up the ends, runs under $1k to have rebuilt and ready to go. Involves building up, turning down, installing seals and bearings. Aftermarket can be found for a little over $1200.

Best

how much of a pain to replace the pins and bushings in the nose, any special tooling?
 

duchek

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Nov 20, 2010
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Saskatchewan
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Farmer
how much of a pain to replace the pins and bushings in the nose, any special tooling?
Just noticed today that the nose on our D6r is moving a bit. How much movement is acceptable? Can it wreck anything else? How big of job is it to fix? I got about another 65 hours of work left before I was planning on getting it back into the shop.
 

Shimmy1

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We replaced the pins and bushing in the nose of our 7H. The pins are press-fit, if i remember correctly (it was over ten years ago) you need a special press tool or get creative with a portapower to remove them. It's a P.I.T.A. if you're not familiar with doing it.
 

Shimmy1

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Well, now that I'm thinking about it, we did it from the inside. I think we may have left the pivot pins alone, just removed the back pins because we were tilting the hard nose to remove the radiator. You probably are going to need the pin press to get the pivot pins out, as they could be inaccessible from the inside. You might have to pull a few pads to make room? Post your serial number (Nige is going to ask for it) and he will hook you up with Cat info on the procedure.
 

Shimmy1

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LGP. Nice. That should make life a whole lot easier. Pull three or four pads and you should have all the room you could possibly need to fit the tooling on there.
 

RayF

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Jul 8, 2011
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Perth Western australia
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lineborer/welder
If the machine has a good few hours on it chances are the nose cone may need line boring. The bearings are a press fit but I would have a couple of bosses machined up and pull them in with some threaded bar and a big spanner. The bores on the chassis wear as well. The 10's have bearings there but I'm not sure about the 6's.
Those bores are about the most difficult job on a Cat Dozer to do. The bore spacings have to be pretty well perfect. You won't get the pins back in if they aren't.
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Everything Ray said regarding R&I plus line boring (if necessary) with knobs on .......... There is an outside chance that the machine frame has flogged the bushes so bad that it might need boring but although that is possible I consider it unlikely.

The pin parts (Section B-B & C-C) are: - Pin (#10) 170-8592, Washer (#17) 7X-0610, Bolt (#24) 7X-2488. 4 of each obviously.
The frame is bushed. The Part Numbers are 258-2303 (front) & 3T-0996 (rear).

D6R ADE Hardnose.png
 

Shimmy1

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Everything Ray said regarding R&I plus line boring (if necessary) with knobs on .......... There is an outside chance that the machine frame has flogged the bushes so bad that it might need boring but although that is possible I consider it unlikely.
What about tooling? Is this job possible without the fancy press tooling?
 

RayF

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Jul 8, 2011
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Perth Western australia
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lineborer/welder
Do you mean to install the bearings? You can pull them in with a hydraulic cylinder. Or use a bit of threaded bar or flog the in with a dolly or and hammer. I would normally use liquid nitrogen.
 

Shimmy1

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Getting the old pins out. Our 7H with 14,000 hrs was a %$#@++@#, mainly because (if I remember correctly) they have to go out to the inside, and there isn't anything to really push against, and with the idler and track frame you really can't swing a hammer that well either. I suppose if you had a couple 8's sitting around you could line up one to push against, and the other to hold the other side, LOL.
 

StanRUS

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Mar 7, 2016
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Cal
Getting the old pins out. Our 7H with 14,000 hrs was a %$#@++@#, mainly because (if I remember correctly) they have to go out to the inside, and there isn't anything to really push against, and with the idler and track frame you really can't swing a hammer that well either. I suppose if you had a couple 8's sitting around you could line up one to push against, and the other to hold the other side, LOL.
Yep, getting the pins out of the frame boss-bores...use cutting torch! Hammering will mushroom the pin ends then you're f'ed' and have to cut the pins out anyway. Couple of mid-west mines do not line bore hardnoses, they pre-fab new ears-bosses and cut off the worn, assemble and weld 10s & 11s.
 
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RayF

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I can imagine replacing the rear bosses. The front ones are 4 holes in line and not very accessible. I bet I could weld and bore them quicker.
 

DoyleX

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Feb 2, 2013
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I know of a really nice 6h that got cut this summer. Might have the hardnose left. Maybe. Things move fast there.
 

watglen

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Here's a stupid question. Why is the hardnose pinned on like that anyway? Why is it not part of the frame? Welded or cast solid. I could see pinning it on if you weren't going to hoist the blade with it.
 

Shimmy1

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Aug 14, 2014
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Here's a stupid question. Why is the hardnose pinned on like that anyway? Why is it not part of the frame? Welded or cast solid. I could see pinning it on if you weren't going to hoist the blade with it.
Because Clatter-pillar wanted to feel special??
 
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