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John Deere 240D Hammer Hydraulic Lines

J

jlittle2212

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Dec 8, 2013
Messages
219
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The Mountains
Looking for input from JD gurus. Hammer will not hammer. Just been rebuilt, when we installed it, it hammered for about 3 minutes then stopped. Now, won't hammer at all. Solenoid behind the cab is engaging and has 26 volts when button pressed. I have 4400 psi from pump 1, I just don't feel that pressure is getting to the hammer. I don't have a flow regulator to check flow at hammer I am just not 100% on what the oil goes through to get to the hammer.

Thanks for any help.
 
T

Tractorguy

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Dec 3, 2015
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174
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NC
Do the hoses running down the boom jump like flow is being sent through them and just stopping. Do both or one hose jump? Did y'all rebuild the hammer what kind of hammer is it nitrogen charged?
 
J

jlittle2212

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Dec 8, 2013
Messages
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The Mountains
Tractorguy said:
Do the hoses running down the boom jump like flow is being sent through them and just stopping. Do both or one hose jump? Did y'all rebuild the hammer what kind of hammer is it nitrogen charged?
Click to expand...


Sitting in the cab, the left hose does move, doesn't seem to "jump" the right hose does not move at all. Some hammer outfit from up north rebuilt the hammer. It is a rammer hammer. It is nitrogen charged. There should just be only about 100 psi on the return right? My hydraulic pump is putting out what it should on pump 1. Pump 2 is putting out good as well. I checked the solenoids behind the cab for the hammer on for auxilary solenoid. Getting voltage and spool engaging. I don't feel like I am getting enough pressure to the hammer.

It is in hammer mode.
 
M

mikebramel

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Jul 15, 2012
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milwaukee
WELL if it was working fine before it was rebuilt, the valves are working, and the pumps do produce some flow, and the hose is hopping..... I would lean towards the most recent activity.... which is the hammer
 
J

jlittle2212

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Dec 8, 2013
Messages
219
Location
The Mountains
mikebramel said:
WELL if it was working fine before it was rebuilt, the valves are working, and the pumps do produce some flow, and the hose is hopping..... I would lean towards the most recent activity.... which is the hammer
Click to expand...

The other hammer they were using quit, so we had this one rebuilt. Installed, it hit about 5 or 6 times then quit. If you hold the button down for a few seconds, it will slightly move down about an inch but won't move back up.
 
D

DK88

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Ontario
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Do you have quick couplers on the hammer lines? Seen those couplers screw up before...
 
willie59

willie59

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If you have quick connect couplers like DK88 mention, get rid of them when using a breaker, unless you're using ones that are designed for breaker use. Aside from that, a Deere 240 should have proper shut off valves fitted to the arm for the auxiliary lines, has a quarter turn hex head to turn them on/off. If you have these shut off valves, disconnect the hoses going to the breaker. Take one of the hoses and use it as a jumper to connect the left aux pipe to the right pipe on the stick. Open both of the shut off valves. Have someone start the machine and engage the breaker control, foot pedal or switch, whatever you use to operate the breaker. Hold it engaged. Now take a wrench and turn the shut off valve on the left pipe slowly. As you slowly shut off that valve you should hear fluid squishing through it. If you do, you know you at least have flow. If you don't, something wrong with the system that puts flow to the auxiliary circuit. That's about the best you can test without access to a flow meter.
 
J

jlittle2212

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willie59 said:
If you have quick connect couplers like DK88 mention, get rid of them when using a breaker, unless you're using ones that are designed for breaker use. Aside from that, a Deere 240 should have proper shut off valves fitted to the arm for the auxiliary lines, has a quarter turn hex head to turn them on/off. If you have these shut off valves, disconnect the hoses going to the breaker. Take one of the hoses and use it as a jumper to connect the left aux pipe to the right pipe on the stick. Open both of the shut off valves. Have someone start the machine and engage the breaker control, foot pedal or switch, whatever you use to operate the breaker. Hold it engaged. Now take a wrench and turn the shut off valve on the left pipe slowly. As you slowly shut off that valve you should hear fluid squishing through it. If you do, you know you at least have flow. If you don't, something wrong with the system that puts flow to the auxiliary circuit. That's about the best you can test without access to a flow meter.
Click to expand...
Where is the relief for the auxiliary? I do have the factory shut off blocks. I will do that test.
 
T

Tractorguy

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Dec 3, 2015
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NC
On the machines we put kits on reliefs are normally on the control valve. You can follow lines from the base of boom to control valve and see where they route from. Should be on side closest to cab towards the front, one on the top and the other on the bottom. Sounds like the shutoff is closed but really shouldn't have hit at all upon install if that's the case?
 
D

DK88

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Was the machine built with a hammer kit or 2 way attachment? I wonder if it is a 2 way and there's no control valve return by pass valve and the spool got pounded out or damaged one way or another?
 
J

jlittle2212

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Hoses were crossed. The rebuild was different than the old one we had. Apparently no one looked at the valves for in and out or pressure and return... Lol.. Thanks for all the help!! This one had me..
 
willie59

willie59

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I had a feeling that's what you had. Most Rammer breakers are fairly straightforward with the in/out ports on the left and right sides of the breaker, pretty hard to mess up connection to them. But the M18, the ports are on the face of the breaker facing the machine, and they're vertical, one port over top of the other, one has to pay attention to which port is in and which is out on the M18. And it's a helluva good breaker for that size machine. It's a short stroke piston which makes it reciprocate very fast. Instead of a thump thump thump, more like a machine gun. I'm only concerned about you fitting it without checking flow/pressure. Although the M18 can handle something like 60 gpm, I've found it's best to run them at around 48 to 50 gpm to get long life from the unit. And I'm not familiar with the Deere 240, but make sure there's not a switch inside the cab that combines flow from the two pumps, sort of like High Flow for a skid loader. I know on many Kobelco machines they have a "Pump Conflux" switch that does just that. When that happens and an operator flips that switch, yeah, that hammer REALLY breaks rock. Uhh, yeah, you've doubled the flow to the breaker! Rapid destruction follows. Don't ask me how I know that.
 
J

jlittle2212

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Joined
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Messages
219
Location
The Mountains
willie59 said:
I had a feeling that's what you had. Most Rammer breakers are fairly straightforward with the in/out ports on the left and right sides of the breaker, pretty hard to mess up connection to them. But the M18, the ports are on the face of the breaker facing the machine, and they're vertical, one port over top of the other, one has to pay attention to which port is in and which is out on the M18. And it's a helluva good breaker for that size machine. It's a short stroke piston which makes it reciprocate very fast. Instead of a thump thump thump, more like a machine gun. I'm only concerned about you fitting it without checking flow/pressure. Although the M18 can handle something like 60 gpm, I've found it's best to run them at around 48 to 50 gpm to get long life from the unit. And I'm not familiar with the Deere 240, but make sure there's not a switch inside the cab that combines flow from the two pumps, sort of like High Flow for a skid loader. I know on many Kobelco machines they have a "Pump Conflux" switch that does just that. When that happens and an operator flips that switch, yeah, that hammer REALLY breaks rock. Uhh, yeah, you've doubled the flow to the breaker! Rapid destruction follows. Don't ask me how I know that.
Click to expand...

The 240D is capable of 59 gpm. Ours is sat at 50. You can adjust flow to a certain extent to the cab. It is limited by the factory, however. (Will only go half way up). Just so happened, we remembered when it was installed on a Kobelco, the lines had to be crossed over as well. Thanks for all your input!
 
willie59

willie59

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If you're mounting any breaker to a Kobelco machine you need to disconnect the plug in connection on the back of the pump conflux switch. If an operator flips that switch it will destroy any brand breaker because it doubles the pump output (flow). Granted, when you have a Kobelco in Breaker Mode, the Mectrocontroller locks out the pump conflux circuit, flipping switch won't do anything, but the problem is it has to be in breaker mode to do that. On the dash 6 machines, they default to Standard Operating mode on start up and they can't be set to default to Breaker Mode, an operator has to actually switch the mode to Breaker every time he turns the ignition switch on, which they WILL NOT DO. If find it easier to remove all doubt and simply disconnect the pump conflux switch, make it idiot proof.

Do you have the hoses actually "crossing over" each other? If so, on the M-18, you can remove the allen head bolts that mount those swivel fitting for in/out and flip them over so the swivel fitting on the left connects to the left aux pipe and and the fitting on the right goes to the aux pipe on the right.
 
J

jlittle2212

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Joined
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Messages
219
Location
The Mountains
willie59 said:
If you're mounting any breaker to a Kobelco machine you need to disconnect the plug in connection on the back of the pump conflux switch. If an operator flips that switch it will destroy any brand breaker because it doubles the pump output (flow). Granted, when you have a Kobelco in Breaker Mode, the Mectrocontroller locks out the pump conflux circuit, flipping switch won't do anything, but the problem is it has to be in breaker mode to do that. On the dash 6 machines, they default to Standard Operating mode on start up and they can't be set to default to Breaker Mode, an operator has to actually switch the mode to Breaker every time he turns the ignition switch on, which they WILL NOT DO. If find it easier to remove all doubt and simply disconnect the pump conflux switch, make it idiot proof.

Do you have the hoses actually "crossing over" each other? If so, on the M-18, you can remove the allen head bolts that mount those swivel fitting for in/out and flip them over so the swivel fitting on the left connects to the left aux pipe and and the fitting on the right goes to the aux pipe on the right.
Click to expand...
Crossed behind the boom.. We no longer have Kobelco.
 
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