I have a 1978 Case 680G with 4 gears, and Synchromesh with power shuttle and torqe converter. I was just wondering if I need to use the clutch when using the power shuttle to shift from Forward to reverse. I was also wondering if the clutch needs to be used when shifting into higher gears. Is the shift patter just a standard H? Thanks
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How to Shift Case 680G
- Thread starter jrad1245
- Start date
digger242j
Administrator
I had a 680G.
No, no, and yes.
To explain further--
Certainly, if you want to go from F to R, you'll want to stop moving first. Once you've done that, you can shift directions without needing the clutch.
If yours is the same as mine, which I presume it is, by "clutch" you mean that little round button on the floor. I'm sure Mr. Case intended you to use it, but...
When my machine was still fairly new, I was roading it. Pulling out from a red light, I stepped on that button to shift from 1 to 2, and it failed to re-engage the shuttle. I rolled to a stop, directly in the middle of the intersection. It was some of the quickest mechanical diagnosis I've ever done, but, I set the parking brakes, rolled underneath, figured out what was what, and was able to move the linkage by hand and get going again, before the lights had cycled another time.
I never used the clutch again. The shuttle handle is convenient enough to your left hand on the steering wheel that I'd just shift it into the neutral area between F and R, shift the tranny as needed with my right hand, shift the shuttle back into F, and keep going. (Of course, you do want to be careful not to go all the way into reverse.)
No, no, and yes.
To explain further--
Certainly, if you want to go from F to R, you'll want to stop moving first. Once you've done that, you can shift directions without needing the clutch.
If yours is the same as mine, which I presume it is, by "clutch" you mean that little round button on the floor. I'm sure Mr. Case intended you to use it, but...
When my machine was still fairly new, I was roading it. Pulling out from a red light, I stepped on that button to shift from 1 to 2, and it failed to re-engage the shuttle. I rolled to a stop, directly in the middle of the intersection. It was some of the quickest mechanical diagnosis I've ever done, but, I set the parking brakes, rolled underneath, figured out what was what, and was able to move the linkage by hand and get going again, before the lights had cycled another time.
I never used the clutch again. The shuttle handle is convenient enough to your left hand on the steering wheel that I'd just shift it into the neutral area between F and R, shift the tranny as needed with my right hand, shift the shuttle back into F, and keep going. (Of course, you do want to be careful not to go all the way into reverse.)
Tinkerer
Senior Member
The other reason for the clutch is to put the shuttle in neutral when loading trucks. That allows you to work close to a truck and by going into neutral and accelerating the engine throttle the hoist goes up much faster. If you ever load trucks you will find out quite quickly how handy that is. Like digger says the 680's have a bad habit of staying in neutral when using the cut-out button. The plunger for the neutral assembly is on top of the shuttle. It has an air line going to it. It becomes problematic when dirt accumulates on it. The spring that pulls it back into the engagement position is not a very strong spring. It would be in your best interest to go under the machine and locate it. Or remove the floorboard and clean the top of the entire shuttle. I never use mine after I was stranded like digger was. I now use the FNR lever instead.
digger242j
Administrator
Mine have been gone a long time (actually had two of them), but if I recall correctly, flip that lever and the shuttle will go into neutral when you step on the brake pedal. That's the feature for truck loading that Tinkerer refers to above.
I never used that much either, but it was more for the reason that if you revved the engine up to raise the bucket, and released the brakes before it slowed back down, the machine would jerk. I figured that wasn't going to be good for the drivetrain. I just found it easier to coordinate engine rpm and clutch engagement by using the shuttle FNR handle as if it was the clutch. You might find you feel differently about it.
I never used that much either, but it was more for the reason that if you revved the engine up to raise the bucket, and released the brakes before it slowed back down, the machine would jerk. I figured that wasn't going to be good for the drivetrain. I just found it easier to coordinate engine rpm and clutch engagement by using the shuttle FNR handle as if it was the clutch. You might find you feel differently about it.
LOL digger I use mine all the time I just use the brake like a clutch and know if I have the RPM's up she is gonna buck! The only time mine gets me is when I am on a slope and the short pause from release to engage has caused me to uhh "pucker" and cut a hole in the seat cover once or twice!:lmao
I use an old clark forklift where the brake pedal runs a hydraulic circuit to disengage the trans. That second and a half backwards roll on a hill gets me every time. You have to resist the urge to hit the brake because it just resets the "oh chit!" timer again. lol
Greyson