-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Case 680 E Air Brake Trouble
- Thread starter scott954
- Start date
Thanks Tinkerer them are the schematics I used also. Is it possible I may have gotten the wrong valves? They bolted up, and the old valves were one large and one smaller valve.I am just going by Lantraxco reply as I am new to this air brake system.
The valve in the picture on the left if you notice says "supply 1, delivery 1, supply 2", etc. It's designed for a system with two separate tanks and separate air lines to front and rear axles, or split rear axles with the front connected along with one rear, safety deal on trucks.
The valves shown on the right are bone simple single supply valves, every truck on the road with air brakes just about had one of these until split systems and ABS came along. I'm betting it's a Bendix E-3 or a copy of it. Any parts store should have these in stock.
Examples:
http://www.anythingtruck.com/product/htp-brake-air-valves-foot/061-277863X.html
http://www.anythingtruck.com/product/htp-brake-air-valves-foot/322-GN277863.html
The valves shown on the right are bone simple single supply valves, every truck on the road with air brakes just about had one of these until split systems and ABS came along. I'm betting it's a Bendix E-3 or a copy of it. Any parts store should have these in stock.
Examples:
http://www.anythingtruck.com/product/htp-brake-air-valves-foot/061-277863X.html
http://www.anythingtruck.com/product/htp-brake-air-valves-foot/322-GN277863.html
Tinkerer
Senior Member
96_Bear; Please post back and let us know if the E3 valve is the one that finally worked for you. I overhauled my valves several years ago with rebuild kits from Case and I think they came in a Bendix box and were for an E3.
Last edited:
Tinkerer
Senior Member
The schematics I have are quite different from a 680E air brake system. I hope mine doesn't cause more confusion. I may be wrong about my 680C using an E3 treadle valve. I think it may have Midland KN22100 valves in it. The piping may be the same, but I think the the top of the plungers are different between the E3 and KN22100. I should still have those old (used) repair kits somewhere in my garage. I will look for them later today.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I found the the repair kit. It came in a Case branded box, the instructions inside the box were printed by Bendix and were for an E3 valve.
I am suppose to get the new E3 valves tomorrow. The valves I had according to Napa once we tore them down is MB N300998 325 and T239649-C with the numbers we can match up.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I have been chasing a slow air leak on my tractor for quite a while. So far I have replaced all the air lines with hydraulic hoses, installed a new check valve in the supply line that goes to the reservoir tank and two new brake chambers. I used a grease gun hose to replace the line to the air pressure gauge. I also put in a new parking brake valve. I just purchased two new treadle valves from two different vendors on Ebay. I bought one of them (a Midland KN22100) for $15.00 delivery included. Also the second one (a Bendix E3) for $35.00 delivery included. If the leak persists after I install them the only thing left that could be leaking is the regulator that supply's air pressure to the hydraulic tank.
I work in industrial maintenance and had a problem of an air leak that we couldn't fine also. I just by chance found the air gauge itself was leaking.
Thanks to Lantraxco and Tinkerer, got the correct valves and everything is working correctly. Found that I have (maxi) brake chamber leaking. Going to try Napa and see what there cost is to get a replacement. Going to search this site and others and see if there is an updated part number that will make it a once and done, the 2 numbers I have now doesn't cross with anything I have found yet. L54297 has been superseded by L73801.
Looks like Tinkerer used this one http://www.nickstruckparts.com/sb2424s.html from earlier in this thread. I am trying to see if the numbers will reveal the info I can cross reference. I am going to have to cut the old one up to get it out so I'm not certain how much is going to be identifiable once I am done. You both have saved me a lot of headaches and cuss words for sure!
You DO realize that there's a honkin' big spring in there right???? 
Cutting on spring brake cans is verboten in my world!
As a guess that new style can looks like it should work. If the outside diameters are close to the same, should be fine.
Cutting on spring brake cans is verboten in my world!
As a guess that new style can looks like it should work. If the outside diameters are close to the same, should be fine.
You DO realize that there's a honkin' big spring in there right????
Cutting on spring brake cans is verboten in my world!
As a guess that new style can looks like it should work. If the outside diameters are close to the same, should be fine.
LOL yes I do, I am going to have to cut the rod at the clevis and maybe have to cut the clevis also from the looks of things. I have dealt with huge spring in robot return canister, during a training class we got to see where one got away from instructor during a rebuild and went thru a block wall and embedded in an concrete wall about 20 feet away!
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I don't think you can cross reference your Case OEM brake chambers Bear. Those 24/24s should bolt right in. Be sure to cut the rod on the new chamber to the exact length as your old one. You shouldn't need to cut anything to get your old brake chambers out. Remove the nuts on the mounting studs then the pin should come out of the clevis. If you have to you can charge the old brake chamber with air to help things along.