Does this wire rope need to be replaced?

ichudov · Jul 18, 2015

t25c, thank you very much! I PM'ed you.

Regarding safety, I think that all of us owner operators know that our careers last until the first serious accident. We are all mindful of that.

td25c · Jul 18, 2015

yeah ichudov . Read through & enjoy them .

Just be careful ...... you might get to like it a little to much .

You aint gonna go wrong with the big G crane with operators & service manuals Bro.

Follow the rules & it's all good .

old-iron-habit · Jul 18, 2015

Follow the rules & it's all good .

[/QUOTE]

That says it all!

td25c · Jul 19, 2015

Absolutely old-iron-habit .:thumbsup

Now the Grove operators safety hand book is geared more for grove TMS truck cranes but many of the procedure's will still apply .

Should at least make for a good start learning about the machine .

Hell , I'm just glad I found the manuals before the wife did as she would have gave them a toss

ichudov · Jul 19, 2015

Guys, I was messing around the shop today and found a 1/2 wire rope sling. I put it up to secure the load block for truck transport.

Take a look at the picture. It is attached securely to the crane and is somewhat taut, but not super tight. You can see that if you look at the picture. Both ends are secured from accidental disconnection.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Grove-Crane/20150719_103519.jpg.html

Would you say that this is "secure" enough for truck transport and driving around the yard?

Thanks

old-iron-habit · Jul 19, 2015

One thing to remember is to always use a shackle (screwed pin) and not a clevis (pin has a snap pin holding it in) when hoisting. Clevis's can spread much easier and come unhooked if caught on something. Also required by our beloved safety regs is a safety latch on all hooks. Your hook on your ball is set up correct.

ichudov · Jul 19, 2015

old-iron-habit said:
One thing to remember is to always use a shackle (screwed pin) and not a clevis (pin has a snap pin holding it in) when hoisting. Clevis's can spread much easier and come unhooked if caught on something. Also required by our beloved safety regs is a safety latch on all hooks. Your hook on your ball is set up correct.

Good point.

So, old-iron, would you personally put this crane on a semi trailer an drive with it, you would think that the hook is secured well enough as shown on picture?

td25c · Jul 19, 2015

If I were hauling it would probably rig it something like this & snug up the block . This would keep the block secure plus be added tie down for the boom .

That's a nice truck & trailer set up ! Perfect for the Crane .

ichudov · Jul 19, 2015

td25c said:
If I were hauling it would probably rig it something like this & snug up the block . This would keep the block secure plus be added tie down for the boom .

That's a nice truck & trailer set up ! Perfect for the Crane .

This is a great idea!

This is my truck and lowboy trailer, I use it for everything! Forklifts and machinery.

It is a very lovely trailer, very old (1981), but basically without rust.

I used to have a homemade gasoline hydraulic unit on it, until I put a PTO hydraulic unit on the truck.

td25c · Jul 19, 2015

I like your trailer , Like you say it can haul everything with the folding tail ramp . That's a handy rig & looks to be in great shape .

We still use an old 25 ton lacrosse lowboy for moving iron . It's a 1951 vintage .... Rock & Roll music was in it's birth when that trailer came off the assembly line . LOL !

She still works fine .
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...l-truck-(Semi)&p=506261&viewfull=1#post506261

ichudov · Jul 19, 2015

td25c said:
I like your trailer , Like you say it can haul everything with the folding tail ramp . That's a handy rig & looks to be in great shape .

We still use an old 25 ton lacrosse lowboy for moving iron . It's a 1951 vintage .... Rock & Roll music was in it's birth when that trailer came off the assembly line . LOL ! She still works fine .
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...l-truck-(Semi)&p=506261&viewfull=1#post506261

Those things are so heavy duty, they just would not die!

I spray the underside of my semi trailer with hydraulic oil, it works well to keep rust at bay.

i

Lashlander · Jul 20, 2015

You have your wedge socket wrong on the crane. You never clamp your dead end to your live wire. That prevents your wedge from setting right. There are several ways to do it but I usually cut about a 8" piece of cable off the wire, then after I seat the socket, clamp it to the dead end. Always put the cinch on the tail and the saddles on the piece of wire you cut for filler. If I can I will get a picture to show you the correct way. It should also say in the operators manual if you have it. Good luck with your new adventure.

old-iron-habit · Jul 20, 2015

ichudov said:
Good point.

So, old-iron, would you personally put this crane on a semi trailer an drive with it, you would think that the hook is secured well enough as shown on picture?

We did it like you have it when roading them but when hauling we set them as TD25 shows. Yours might be just a bit tight but not much. You just want to stop it from flopping and banging. Which reminds me, take a look at a choker/rigging handbook and pay special attention to how a choker is derated when the spread becomes flatter than 45 degrees. When you get two chokers spread way out you can break them with 10% of the pull.

Dualie · Jul 23, 2015

When securing an RT to the trailer i like to use a spring lever binder to give it a little extra cushion for any movement the crane may have on the trailer to keep the line from taking to much shock load.

Nige · Jul 23, 2015

Lashlander said:
You have your wedge socket wrong on the crane. You never clamp your dead end to your live wire. That prevents your wedge from setting right. There are several ways to do it but I usually cut about a 8" piece of cable off the wire, then after I seat the socket, clamp it to the dead end. Always put the cinch on the tail and the saddles on the piece of wire you cut for filler. If I can I will get a picture to show you the correct way. It should also say in the operators manual if you have it. Good luck with your new adventure.

For the dead end of the rope after the socket we would often pull it into a circle or pigtail and install the clamps on to that, both on the dead end of the rope so to speak. In some applications it takes up less space than a straight section of cable if you are wanting to run the block really close up to the socket. However either way is perfectly acceptable.

Nige · Jul 23, 2015

In the absence of a photo maybe this diagram will help. 3 ways of doing it wrong on the LH side and 3 ways of doing it right on the RH side.

td25c · Jul 23, 2015

That's interesting Nige . My wedges are symmetrical . Can flip it either way in to the becket socket . This is out of a Grove manual showing only two ways ..... Correct and Incorrect .

Nige · Jul 24, 2015

Some wedges are directional, others are not. I can't think I've ever come across too many directional ones. Mostly what we were trying to show the OP is that you shouldn't install Crosby clamps between the tail coming out of the socket and the live end of the hoist cable like on his crane.

Thinking about it when that anchor is re-done I personally would pull the cable through the socket by a foot or so just to get the area of live cable that has been compressed by the saddles of the clamps on to the dead side of the socket. Any deformation of a hoist cable on the live side has to be considered as undesirable.

ichudov · Jul 24, 2015

See what Grove says:
(look into the circled paragraph)

This is for Grove 540 crane.

Of course I do not know much and defer to everyone else's superior knowledge. I just found this in a manual.

Nige · Jul 24, 2015

Basically Grove is saying that any of the 6 methods A thru F are acceptable, but 3 of the 6 are "preferred" solutions.

It's worthwhile pointing out that if you are thinking that your hoist cable is anchored using method "B" that is not correct. The "specialty clip"used in that option is effectively a modified version of a Crosby clamp with a "double saddle" specifically designed so that the U-bolt does not bite into the live end of the cable and damage it. The photo in your post #25 on Page 2 is using 2 standard Crosby clamps which is not the same thing as shown in your manual.

Does this wire rope need to be replaced?

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